Read through first and make sure you are comfortable with attempting this repair or diagnosis. Prior transmission work would be a good idea.
Before starting, be sure you have a clean area to perform this repair.
**KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER AND KEEP THE GRABBY ASSISTANT OR NEIGHBOR'S HANDS OFF OR SOMETHING WILL GET SCREWED UP!**
It may be possible to perform this without draining all the fluid since you really don't need to remove the pan, but it would most definately prevent any spills should the transmission become tipped in the wrong direction.
PARTS LIST from www.wittrans.com
Qty: 4 WA67106C FRI. A140/A240 DIRECT/O. 2.08ea.
Qty: 4 WA67122A STEEL. A130/A140/A240 FO 1.41ea.
Total for replacing this clutch set was $28.96 shipped to my door. Depending on which set is bad, they list inside or outside diameters of parts as well as teeth counts, so if different clutches are bad you should be able to find the ones you need on there for roughly the same price.
All in all a car can be possibly taken from junk to repaired for under $30 in a weekend.
Before removing transmission: Wash down transmission as best you can. Drain fluid.
After removing transmission:
1. Pull off torque converter and drain differential if you cannot plug the drivers side hole on the differential.
2. Stand transmission up so the pump is pointing up(Pump is behind the torque converter).
3. On the side of the case behind the cooler lines you will see a round recess with an X in it.
Make sure there is not a lot of dirt on it. Remove the internal snap ring. It may require a few light taps with a punch to loosen it, but you should be able to use a pair of pliers and twist/lift it from the case. This is the band apply piston. Pull out the piston and spring. Keep them in order of removal
4. Take all the bolts loose holding the pump in.
You'll need to use two of the bolts(14mm head) that bolt the trans to engine block. You'll see two holes that are threaded on the pump.
Carefully screw the bolt in by hand until it stops. **CAREFULLY** give
each bolt a turn to pull the pump out of the case. It should not require much pressure to pull remove the pump.
5. Set the pump aside after removal with the outside facing down because you'll be setting the following parts on top of it to keep them in order.
6. The band should now be loose enough to remove first hub assembly and set it on top of the pump.
Be sure to keep it's orientation the same with the pump(closed end towards pump). Inspect the frictions and steels in this hub. They should be a tan or very light brown in color. When we get to the second hub I'll explain in more detail looking at the the clutch frictions/steels.
7. The next hub assembly will contin another clutch pack. This was burned up on this particular transmission.
At this point you should be left with the case looking like this and all clutch packs should be removed except for the one in the end of the case.
I looked at that one first and it was tricky getting the cover back on. If you've looked through everything and it all looks good you can take a look inside there. I'm not going to get into looking at that because you just remove all the bolts and it lifts off. The cover sets back on, but a lot of wiggling/jiggling and praying gets it back on in a timely manner.
1. After locating burned clutch pack, remove snap ring in order to access frictions and steels. Make sure you keep them in order because some steels are thicker than others. These are the pressure apply plates.
For reassembly, perform steps above in reverse order. Document the work you do if you feel you may not remember how to put things back together.
When putting the hubs back into the transmission you'll need to use a twisting motion in order to get the frictions into alignment. You must make sure everything is completely seated together or things will not fit back together. You should not need to use any force other than gravity to get things back together. When you get to the point of installing the pump, you'll need to lube the seal around the pump and gently push it into the case. Making sure the bolt holes line up correctly hand start the pump bolts into the case if possible. You'll then need to sequentially use the pump bolts to slowly draw the pump back into the case. If at any time a bolt becomes hard to turn STOP and investigate the problem. When the pump is fully seated and the pump bolts tightened(roughly 20 ft-lb.). You should be able to turn the small input shaft after the bolts are torqued. If not, something may not be right and you need to double check that everything is installed correctly.
You can now make sure the torque converter is full of fluid and carefully install it in the transmission. MAKE SURE THE CONVERTER IS COMPLETELY IN AND ENGAGED WITH THE TANGS ON THE PUMP.