After doing tons of timing belt replacements, I decided to created my own 'How To' website showing what's involved in replacing the timing belt on the 4 cylinder 5SFE Engine along with the water pump and oil seals. The 5SFE is a rock solid motor and I love working on it. Thinking about doing one on the 1MZFE. Lot of pictures. Enjoy.

http://toyotarepair.intuitwebsites.com/index.html

 

Judging from your post, sounds like you have a lot of experience replacing timing belts. I am a car illiterate and have all my maintenance done by various shops. I was just quoted 800 Dollars for the replacement of the timing belt and water pump. Does this seem excessive to you? Thanks!

 

That's a excessive price for a belt/water pump replacement. Also, I have yet to replace a water pump on a Camry that needed it. I tell customers that I'll replace it after I have the timing belt off and I can inspect the pump for leaks and bearing failure. Tensioner pulleys, on the other hand, do fail and should be replaced as preventative maintenance.

The labor time to replace a belt should be around 3 hours with a experienced mechanic. The belts and pulley parts should not exceed $100. IMO, the total cost should not exceed $400. With a new water pump, add $100.

 

Sounds and looks like you are the DIY expert on this engine. I just put mine back together after oil seal replacement and have two issues. It will start but will not keep running more than a few seconds. 1. I'm not certain now what mark on the cam pulley means TDC 2. I accidentally broke off one of the teeth on the timing pulley that spins in front of the crankshaft position sensor. Would this cause the engine to stop?

Mike

 

A broken tooth on the Camshaft sprocket could lead to possible belt jump which would screw up your timing. I suggest you go to a junk yard a pickup a used one as a replacement. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing long distance trips with a broken tooth.

If the belt was placed improperly, the engine would be mis-firing and your Check Engine light would come on with an error code of Camshaft Position or Crankshaft Position Error. Can't remember which one.

If after the belt replacement your engine starts at a low idle and stalls, that may be due to a clogged/stuck Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Squirt some GumOut in the port opening on the bottom right hand portion of your throttle body then start and stop your engine a few times to force then opening and closing of the value. That should allow the GumOut to free up the sticky valve. The problem seems to happen with my customers when they encounter colder weather where the carbor/varnish tends to harden and stick the valve.

 

To all first time timing belt replacement mechanics.

To be absolutely assured that you have proper alignment of your new belt with the crank and camshaft pulley, do the following:

1. Before removing the old timing belt, place paint marks on the outside surface of both the old timing belt and the pulleys.

2. Transfer the paint marks from the old belt to the new belt. You don't need to count the number of cogs from the old belt to the new. Just place the new belt over the old belt and keep the belt cogs aligned. When you get to the mark on the old belt, apply paint to the new belt. There is no way you can screw up on the installation. Just align the paint marks on the belt with the cam and crank pulley paint marks.

3. If the belt seems a little tight slipping it on the camshaft, move the camshaft a hair to the right with a box wrench attached to the camshaft pulley bolt. Once on, remove the slack.

4. Before removing the old belt, twist the right side of the belt ( between the cam and crankshaft) with your finger tips around 30 degrees in order to remove any residual belt tension after removing the belt tensioner. You'll have plenty of slack on the left side of the belt, so by twisting the right side of the belt, the cam will move slightly to the right to ease belt removal and installation.

 

Sorry I was not clear. The tooth is not one that runs the belt. The broken tooth is one on the back (inside) of the gear that does not touch anything but I assume is what the crankshaft position sensor takes reading off of.
Second, sort of new question: My new timing belt seems loose on both sides of the camshaft pulley and the tensioner pulley seems like it is over half -3/4 way up. I did not replace either tensioner. During the short time I get it to run, the belt whips front to back between the oil pump and camshaft pulley. Suggestions?

Mike

 

If the broken tooth is for the crank sensor, you definitely need to replace it if you ever want the engine to run right. I hand a similar problem with a rear brake sensor ring that mounts to the rear wheel bearing spindle. Without the ring, the ABS stopped working.

With respect to the timing belt slack, during installation there should be no slack on the right side of the belt (camshaft, water pump, crankshaft). The slack is removed by rotating the camshaft counter clockwise with a box wrench. Assuming the TB tensioner bolt is loose, the tension spring will take up the belt slack on the left side. Or, with the TB tensioner bolt loose, rotate the engine via the crankshaft bolt until the right side of belt is tight. Make sure the TB tensioner bracket moves freely on the back plate or else the TB tensioner spring can't do it job to remove slack.

 

I got the new pulley on and it runs great, BTW, I checked the pulleys while I was in there again and the idler pulley was sticking, so, I think that was the cause of the belt jump. I noticed belt rubber stuck on the pulley. And I assume that is where I am getting a little knocking from. Question though: I replaced the oil pump seal... could the oil pump knock? Do I need to prime it?

Mike

 

Good to read that you've got the car running great. As I had written in my timing belt replacement site, replacing the pulley's with the belt should be SOP with a belt replacement job. It's just good Preventative Maintenance.

You don't need to prime the oil pump after a seal replacement. If there was a problem with your oil pump, your oil pressure light would go on. If you've got a knocking or tapping noise, check your valve clearances. Also knocking noise may be due to high carbon deposits in your combustion chamber. Not uncommon with high mileage cars. Try a product called BG44 or SeaFoam.