I was wondering what it would cost for a new timing belt, waterpump,oil pump seal for an 1996 toyota camry 2.2l

 

Scott: If you are doing it yourself, I would think around $150-$175 in parts for a new TB, Aisin Waterpump w/housing, camshaft oil seal, crankshaft oil seal, oil pump oil ring and oil pump seal. While in there, I would change out the thermostat also (around $15-20 for a Toyota brand) and the the Alternator belt and AC/Power Steering belt. If you have someone do it, I would think somewhere around $800-$1,000, depending on where you live. My two cents.

Dave

 

Labor Hours
Timing Belt Replacement 3.0
Water Pump .5
Oil Seal (Each) .5
Total Labor Hours 4.0 x Labor Rate = ????

Parts
Timing Belt $15 - $30
Idler Pulleys $30 - $50
Seals (each) $10
Water Pump $30 - $50

 

What is the best method to remove the crankshaft bolt and tighten it.
I have an auto so holding the pulley to use a breaker bar is difficult, not much room to hold it.
Is using a 50 ft/lb air wrench going to damage the bolt and would it remove it.
I have seen a u tube video using a small wrench are they a bitch to undo?

 

Most shops use an air wrench to install and remove the bolt.

It is possible to nstall a large breaker bar and wedge one end against the frame or floor. Then disconnect the engines ign system (to prevent starting) and bump the starter to break the bolt loose. This sounds strange but does work.

The Toyota official method is to bolt a special tool to the pulley using the two threaded holes on the face. This tool has a handle that can be held or wedged to the frame or floor and a hole in the center to allow socket access. The tool holds the pulley still while the breaker bar is moved.

You can make your own tool out of a length of wood having a holes for the socket and bolts. Have the wood wide enough to be able to bolt to the face of the pulley and long enough to bind up with frame or floor when the pulley rotates.

Bolt torque depends on engine model but is around 80 ft-lbs.

When removing the pulley use a bolt-on puller only not a claw type. A claw type can pull the outer pulley ring off the inner one.

 

You can also get yourself a hand impact driver on Amazon for around $20 made by Lisle. You smack the driver with a heavy weighted hammer which then transfers the impact energy into twisting energy ... just like a air impact driver.

 

Thanks for the speedy replies.
The Toyota method sounds good to me, even though it will be extra work to make the tools required, the rattle gun may be ok to remove it but doing it up is guess work and it could break.
I have had a ford harmonic balancer outer drift off the hub and throw belts off, so good advice about the puller.
First time I have worked on a front drive car, not as bad as I thought it would be, nice motor the 5SFE
thanks again for your help.
Cutarug

 

Generally, If I have to replace the timing belt for any reason, I change the waterpump. It just isn't worth tearing it all apart and gambling on re-using the old pump. And vice-versa.
As for the pulley-bolt removal, I've had difficulty sometimes using an electric impact-gun, but a breaker-bar on the bolt braced against some part of the frame or pavement, then bumping the starter, has always worked. My electric gun works just fine to re-install.
Recently had my pulley-balancer assy separate at the rubber. Hope the aftermarket replacement holds up for awhile.

Happy Motoring, Mark

 

Thanks so much for documenting and sharing this. I recently used the version on hubpages as the primary DIY and a couple other DIYs as reference. I definitely found it quite helpful, but just a bit confusing to me in a couple spots, but I chalk that up to be being quite a newbie on jobs like this and I think that I didn't have sufficient background knowledge to interpret things properly. Someone else's DIY helped fill those small gaps of mine.

I did, but that's because I misinterpreted the instructions.

I found this tip very helpful. Thanks.

I did this and found it a very useful tip. Thanks.

I didn't buy a replacement gasket and the one that was in there was shot and I further damaged it during extraction of the timing covers. Not fun getting those out. Anyway, when I reassembled it, I just flat-out didn't install one at all. What's the most likely ramification of that decision?

I used this method and it worked beautifully on the very first attempt! Thanks.

I made this...twice! The first one broke under 60+ ft.lb. torque due to being the wrong type of wood (some cheap pressed wood that was part of an old toddler bed). The second one (of pressure treated lumber) worked like a charm.

 

You can do the oil pump gasket without taking off the top half of the timing belt cover or disturbing the timing of the camshaft. You need to take off the alternator belt by loosening the alternator adjusting bolt and swinging it down but if the adjuster screw is frozen just take out the through bolt and leave the adjuster setting alone. Loosen the power steering adjustment screw and pull down on the belt to swing the pump down to remove the belt. Remove the harmonic balancer using a strap wrench or pulley belt wrench to hold the crankshaft from turning. The balancer should come right off the crankshaft. Remove the three bolts from the lower timing belt cover and the 10mm bolt below the alternator that goes through both the top and bottom timing belt covers. You can then remove the lower timing belt cover by prying and wiggling it free but some of the retaining sleeves may be rusted and need a little wd40 and jostling to get the cover free. Mark the position of the timing belt with respect to the crankshaft using whiteout or paint but remove the guide washer first from the crankshaft. You can then remove the lower idler/guide pulley and slide the timing belt off of the oil pump and swing it towards the front of the car and out of the way of the oil pump. Remove the seven 10mm bolts securing the oil pump cover and remember the locations of the two shorter bolts for proper reinstallation. Carefully use a screwdriver to free the oil pump cover from the oil pump body and remover all of the old o-ring gasket. You can change the oil pump seal at your workbench but I didn't change mine because the nut on the oil pump shaft is on pretty tight and I didn't want to chance mangling the belt sprocket using a vise to hold it from turning. Chances are that the o-ring is the real culprit of your major oil leak. When reinstalling the o-ring gasket I used some quality rtv silicone lightly rubbed on the o-ring to hold it in the proper channel on the oil pump body when putting the oil pump cover back on. Do not overtighten the 10mm bolts on the oil pump housing so you don't crack the aluminum oil pump cover or the housing. Reinstall the timing belt on the crankshaft and the oil pump and then replace the idler pulley and check that your timing belt marks match up. Replacing the lower timing belt cover is a little challenging but can be done with patience. The top of the lower cover slides in under the bottom edge of the top timing belt cover and you can see if you have the proper positioning by looking down from above in the engine compartment. Use a long screwdriver or tire iron to lever the power steering pump back into position with the belt installed and also get the alternator back into position using a temporary bolt threaded into the alternator from the left side and a long screwdriver as a lever to get the proper positioning for the adjuster through bolt to be reinstalled. I hope this helps with your project.