A few months ago, I bought a 1993 Camry for my son. Now we're having problems that I can't figure out. I am now at a loss and need some expert help. Here are the details;

Car/engine:
1993 Camry XLE. 3.0L v6, 137K miles

Problem:
While driving the car started to sputter at idle (red lights, stops signs) but would run smooth at higher RPM. After a couple of miles, the car simply stopped. It would turn over, but not start.

After towing it home, I discovered the fuel pump would not turn with the key on. Later troubleshooting revealed no spark, no power leaving the coil.

Troubleshooting/fix actions performed so far:
--With the fuel pump not working, I assumed it was the problem. Replaced fuel pump. Still no good.
--Could get the fuel pump to turn when using a jumper wire to bypass the Open Circuit relay. Replaced Open Circuit relay
--Replaced EFI relay
--Discovered no spark and no power coming from the coil. Replaced Igniter and Coil
--Checked timing belts, all good and everything turns.
EDIT:
--Checked all fuses, everything good.

After replacing relays, fuel pump, igniter and coil, the engine still will not start. I was told it could be a bad Crankshaft Position sensor (CPS). Chilton manual says CPS is located to right of water pump, under the alternator. All I can find under there is the temp sensor in the metal part of the coolant tubing. I cannot locate the CPS. (if pictures of what I see in that area would help, I can provide them)

Is there anything else I should be looking at that would prevent both spark and fuel? Any help would be greatly appreciated. My son just graduated and needs the car to find a job.

 

info seem to be so good, it would be better if you posted some pic and lets see what else is needed.

 

This engine ign system has only one coil?

The dist cap has 6 wires plus the coil wire?

What years does the Chilton Book cover?

What specific engine model does the car have?

I don't think this engine has a remote crank or camshaft sensor.

Have you checked for spark by removing the coil wire at the dist cap and holding it close to a ground point on the chassis.

If no spark, check for 12V DC power at the positive electrical terminal of the coil. If not power something is wrong here, blown fuse, etc.

The fuel pump will only run when the engine is cranking over or running. Nothing will happen if the ign key is turned on but not turned to start.

 

This engine ign system has only one coil?
--Yes, only one coil

The dist cap has 6 wires plus the coil wire?
--Yes.

What years does the Chilton Book cover?
--1983-1996

What specific engine model does the car have?
--Not sure, where can I find that? It is a 3.0L V6 with "3000" stamped on top of the intake manifold and "PTY3.0V 5ffVO" on the sticker under the original hood (hood has been replaced, original is behind my barn)

I don't think this engine has a remote crank or camshaft sensor.

Have you checked for spark by removing the coil wire at the dist cap and holding it close to a ground point on the chassis.
--Yes. No arc between wire and ground. Also double checked directly from the coil by inserting a screw driver into the terminal and using a ground jumper to the body (to eliminate a bad coil wire as the culprit)

If no spark, check for 12V DC power at the positive electrical terminal of the coil. If not power something is wrong here, blown fuse, etc.
--I haven't checked this on the new coil yet, but I will. The old coil had 12V going in and nothing going to the distributor, which is why I replaced the coil.

The fuel pump will only run when the engine is cranking over or running. Nothing will happen if the ign key is turned on but not turned to start.
--I was told that the fuel pump should run with the key in the on position just long enough to prime/pressurize the FI system. This is not happening even after replacing the pump, Open Circuit Relay and EFI relay. All fuses check out good.

 

Toyota used a V6 engine model called the 3VZFE from 92-93. For 94 and up the engine was replaced by a 1MZFE. Sometime prior to 96 this replacement engine began to incorporate a remote cam or crank sensor for the ign.

The Haynes manual may show both engine models, ign systems, etc and typically provides some info on each but can be confusing to follow.

It is possible the fuel system pressurizes as you state but never heard of this. The wiring for Camry typically does not allow any fuel pump operation with the key in the On position.

The fuel system is typically already pressurized at start up, if not there is a problem with system leak down when the engine is off.

I don't have a wiring diagram for this engine.

The AM2 fuse may power the igniter. The igniter connects to the coil. The computer connects to the igniter. There are typically a couple of pickup sensor inside the distributor that mark off the timing positions. One for the cam position, one for the crank. These sensors connect to the computer.

Based on the pickup sensor locations referenced by the computer, the computer tells the ign to break the connection with coil power. Breaking the connection discharges the coil causing the spark.

Suggest you go the AutoZone website and register (free) to use the sites vehicle repair guides. You are looking for info on testing the pickup sensors that are located inside the distributor. Maybe the Haynes manual has this and a wiring diagram. You want to use the diagram showing only one coil and not having remote cam or crank sensors for the 3VZ-FE engine.

You have changed most of the parts already for the ign. Suggest fixing the ign first, then looking at the fuel system. I don't think the system has a problem.