I'm doing this on a 2001 Camry, 6 cylinder, 1MZ-FE I believe.

I removed the belt before lining the crank or cams up.

Should I try to put the belt back on before attempting to line things up? should I line things up slowly, turning each cam or crank alternately, and only a fraction of a turn at a time?

I can't figure out definitely (from online) whether or not this is an interference engine.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

The 1MZ-FE without variable valve timing (VVT-i) is non-interference. VVT-i was introduced on or after 2002, the 2001 did not have it.

With belt off, set crank at TDC. Rotate cam pulleys to their marks. Install belt, then rotate crank 2 times CW and recheck that all marks still line up. If not, repeat the alignment process until they do.

For interference engines you can rotate cam or crank by hand slowly. If a piston hits a valve you will know it when rotation of either stops. The issue of damage is if cranking with the starter or engine running.

 

Thanks toyomoho.

 

please message me. idk how to use this thing. u seem very good at having an answer. toyomoho

 

I have a 1995 Camry with a V-6 3.0 1MZ-FE. I have just completed changing the water pump and timing belt. I carefully marked and lined everything up correctly. Before totally putting all the covers and everything back together, I have attempted to start the car and it will fire right up and run for a few seconds and then shut off and refuse to restart. So far, I have not torqued the harmonic balancer down because it was such a pain in the rear to remove. I did not remove the crank sprocket, so I haven't scratched or damaged the crankshaft sensor. Does the harmonic balancer need to be torqued down in order to allow the vehicle to run, or should I be looking for a different problem or solution? Help!

 

What are you using as a shop manual or reference material to line up the pulleys? What belt installation method are you following, the align the cams/crank or the mark the belt method? If you using the belt marking method suggest using another method.

The bolt should be snugged up to prevent the pulley from moving. Once everything is OK and all parts back on, tighten the bolt to spec.

For now, rotate the crank pulley (via bolt) by hand CW until the crank pulley mark is at TDC and the cam pulleys are supposed to be at their belt installation marks. This being the No 1 piston is at TDC on compression stoke. Determine if ALL marks are still lined up. If not reset the cam(s) pulley orientation as required.

Then rotate the engine crank pulley by hand CW 2 times (720 degrees) and recheck that all marks are still line up. If all pulleys are not still lined up, reset the cam(s) orientation again.

Repeat these rotation process/cam reorientation until you can complete the 2 revolutions and all marks remain lined up.

The belt tensioner when released can cause one or the other cam pulley to rotate due to excess belt slack. The result being when the crank pulley rotates, one or more cams are no longer in their proper orientation.

Also make sure there is still ign spark.

 

Thanks toyomoho. I was using a copy of the 1MZ-FE manual from the Toyota website. The original job was to replace the water pump because a mechanic said there was some drag in the water pump bearings and I figured I would change the timing belt and seals while it was open. Also, the belt was last changed at 68,000 by the previous owner 14 years and 185,000 miles ago. I started the job by setting the crank at TDC and aligning the cams with the marks on the timing cover, and then marking the old belt so that I could check to make sure the marks matched the new belt. The new belt was already marked and I double checked alignment before trying to start it. I didn't know about the 2xCW rotation until I read the previous posts. I also put the harmonic balancer on with the bolt loosely threaded so things wouldn't fly apart, but didn't torque it down. I didn't realize the tensioner could pull things out of whack when released. (Forgive me, I'm a rookie). I'm pretty sure there is still spark and fuel because it fires right up and runs a few seconds after I put it back in order again. I will try your suggestions. Any other pointers would be greatly appreciated. As a side note, the water pump bearings definitely were dragging based on how it feels now that it is out.

 

Assuming a pulley did move and is now no longer aligned, you are forgiven.

Remember you had the good sense to try to start the engine before closing it up. Some don't and need to go back in which can be very frustrating.

It has happened, the engine runs poorly after a belt change for unknown reasons. However after a few engine starts things straighten themselves out. That's why it is important to make sure the timing marks are set accurately. Or you may second guess your good works and start looking for timing problems when there are none.

Check and recheck your work! If you removed any wiring plugs, ign items, hoses, etc make sure they are back in place. Then if all is again right and the has engine operational issues, its possible these will work themselves out shortly.

Only rotate the engine CW when checking timing marks. If your rotating CW and pass by the mark don't rotate CCW slightly, then CW to align the mark. This will put slack in the timing belt. Either rotate say a full revolution back, then go forward to take out the slack. Or keep rotating CW another 2 times (or what is needed).

 

Thanks toyomoho, you are the Dude! Did some checking, and the rear cam sprocket had indeed somehow slipped over the keyway and was off by about 90 degrees. I think I got sidetracked before I really tightened it down. Straightened it out, lined everything up, put it back together and it fired right up. Purrs like a kitten! Thanks again! Totally amazing how simple it is when everything is lined up properly, and how incredibly frustrating it can be when things aren't.

 

Great job! Glad you got it running again.

You did good works in leaving the car apart and making sure it started before buttoning it up!