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timing belt and oil seals job

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Old 01-25-2010, 11:03 AM
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Default timing belt and oil seals job

I have 4 camry's. They all are the 2.2 engine. Years 96-99. Every one of them leak oil from front passenger side area where the timing belt is. I want to change the oil seals for the cam the crank and oil pump. Are there seals for all three things on the 5fse engine just behind the timing cover?

I was looking for tools to get the pulleys off and the usual autoparts places don't have them. the dealership does not have them either. Where can i go to rent or does anyone know a way to get the bolts loose without the toyota specified pulley tools? Cant even get the lower timing cover off without pulling the crank pulley.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:56 PM
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Yes, the seals are under the timing belt cover.

Most do-it-yourself mechanics do not use Toyota tools but manage to do the job without problems.

You will need to remove the upper engine mount bracket, access to these bolts is limited. Suggest a 5-point box wrench to snuggly grab the bolt head and prevent corner round over. There is no access to allow a socket and breaker bar.

If you have one, use an air wrench to remove the crank balancer bolt. If not use a board with a couple of holes to bolt board to it the face of the balancer. Drill an access hole in the board for the crank bolt socket. Make the board long enough to bind up with the chassis or floor when the crank rotates. Ditto when reinstalling the bolt.

The crank seal is behind the timing belt pulley on the crank snout. If the harmonic balancer does not slide off by hand use a bolt-on puller to prevent damage. Auto parts, hardware and department stores such as Sears should have this type of puller.

Remove the timing belt and pull off the timing pulley to expose the seal.

The cam seal is behind the cam pulley. This pulley should come off by hand to expose the seal. You will need to fabricate something to hold the pulley while turning the bolt.

Use a board similar to the one used for the balancer except install bolts into the 2 holes.
Then install the board with bolts onto the face of the pulley which also has holes in its spokes to keep the pulley from turning. Ditto when reinstalling the bolt.

Installing a new cam seal is more difficult then the crank as there is little access for driving tools. If your clever you can make a device that uses the threaded hole in the cam and a longer bolt to pull the seal into place as the bolt is tightened. You might be able to wrap tape around the cam snout to ease the inner seal lip transition to the surface it normally rides on or make up a bushing to slide over the snout.

To replace the oil pump seal you need to remove the pump and take it apart. No special tools required. You will need something to hold the pump drive gear to remove the nut that holds the pulley on the drive shaft. A vice with soft jaws (boards) will work.
When putting the pump back together make sure you realign the dot on the driven gear face in the same direction as the drive gear.

One suggestion is to set the engine up at TDC on the compression stroke on No 1 cylinder. This will position the cam and crank to quickly realign them prior to installing the belt. The water and oil pump pulley do not need alignment.

There may be been an updated belt tensioner spring to use, the Toyota dealer would have this.

All seals can be obtained after market perhaps with exception of the preformed O-ring that goes between the oil pump and the housing on the face of the engine. The Toyota dealer should have this.

Once the belt is on, rotate the engine 2-times CW and recheck the cam and crank alignment marks. If off, readjust and again rotate the engine. The engine will not run correctly if the cam and crank pulleys are not aligned right.

Suggest using a Toyota timing belt, a little more expensive but might be quieter.

Give yourself a long day or easy weekend to do the job the first time (with access to a tool or parts store). After you learn all the tricks the job can be done in a few hours.
 
  #3  
Old 01-27-2010, 09:38 AM
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Thanks so much for the response Joey. Alot of great info here. I plan on working on the car after work or this weekend. Ill let you know how it goes. It appears that there is also an "O" ring along with the oil pump seal.

Thanks again,
Pete
 
  #4  
Old 01-27-2010, 10:23 AM
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Yes, there is a lip seal (like the cam and crank seal) for pump drive shaft that presses into the pump body.

The pre-shaped O-ring is between the pump body and housing that is attached to the engine block.

The pump gears slide into the housing body.
 
  #5  
Old 02-06-2010, 07:09 PM
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I have seen the 200 odd dollar "timing belt coupon" from the dealer balloon into a grand when they get through selling you a water pump and every seal in the front of the engine. DIY is good, but be careful not to damage the groves into which the seals are inserted.
 
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