HELP!!!!! I'm about to torch this sucker.(not really) you all know how frustrating cars can be ,especially when it comes to electrical problems which is what I have.

The passenger front window will not go up or down from the drivers side master control switch.The passenger front window will go down from the passenger side switch,but will not go back up.

The door locks will lock from the drivers door but will not unlock from the drivers door.They will lock and unlock from the passengers door.

I have replaced the master window switch in the drivers door and the passenger side window motor.I still have the same problem.Is there a relay or fuse or controller that I missed?

Thanks to anyone that could lend a hand on this one.

 

anyone?

If you don't have any real help to offer please keep your personal comments to yourself.........Thanks.

 

 

You need to get a test light and ck for power and ground coming out of switch that controls the lock on drivers side,the first step of electrical problems is to find where you have power and ground and where you do not.The window problem sounds like you have a bad rt fr switch.A bad secondary switch can cause the master switch to not to work as desgned also(power and ground runs thru it),Get your test light and see where you do not have power and ground.Unplug rt fr motor and hook test light to connector,the light should come on in up and down position if switch is good.Be patient and think.The switch will send power and ground out 2 wires for up,and then to go down,the switch reverses where power and ground comes out.

 

Thanks for the help.What I actually did was to get the window to go up I reversed the two wires at the plug near the window motor on rt frt pass window and even then I had to push the switch in the down position to get the window to go up.:confus ed::confus ed:

 

That prove that door window switch is bad,and yes it can prevent the master switch from working.

 

I just fixed this problem on my 1996 Camry LE 4 dr.
Symptom: The right front passenger side window could be rolled down, but not up. Either the drivers side or passenger's side power window switch worked fine to roll the window down. Over a period of years, the window could be rolled up, but it moved more and more slowly. Sometimes it wouldn't move up at all, but by slamming the passenger or driver's side door sometimes I could get it to work.
Cause: Broken wires in the wiring harness that runs from the body of the car, right by the parking brake to the driver's side door. Specifically, the blue/red stripe wire was completely parted. Check continuity between this wire where it connects to the master control switch and the other end, which is inside the car body, behind a panel located by the parking brake pedal. If no continuity, this is probably what's wrong.
How to fix: Roll up drivers side window, remove key from ignition, remove drivers side door panel, remove speaker from door. Unscrew plastic nut and remove large plastic panel just to the left of parking brake pedal. Unplug the wiring harness that goes to driver's side door (two large plugs). Next, you need to pull out the (now loose) end of the wiring harness by detaching the ends of the rubber boot from car body and door, then carefully pull the wiring harness and boots through (from the door side) so it will now be hanging out of the door. Then you can un-tape the boot, slide it along the wires, inspect wiring, and make repairs or replace.
Hope this helps.

 

Gonna try this on my 94 XLE. Rear passenger window got stuck down during a week-long snowstorm. Once it got warm enough to coax the window up, I unplugged the switch.

 

Solved my issue.

1) Replaced relay under hood in fuse box. Called local auto parts store and told them what i was looking for.
2) Replaced fuse under dash behind panel. 30A 32V DC
3) Working

I have pictures, cant upload directly to this site.

 

My right rear window would not move with drivers window control panel controls. It would work with right rear window control. Prior to taking anything apart mechanically, I used Electronic CRC Electronic Cleaner (or like) (about $8.00/bottle April 2017 ). I have not looked at the electrical schematic; but, would give good odd's (5 to 1 minimum) that there are electro-mechanical relay contacts in that assembly. These controls have been collecting dirt, dust and debris for over 10 years. With the car NOT running (keys removed from the ignition), with minimal pressure I lifted up on each of the drivers side control levers to widened the gap, and sprayed in the cleaner. This fixed the problem I was having, One might try at least 90% (r Isoproply Alcohol (rubbing)) , wait at least 10 minutes to allow alcohol/cleaner to evaporate), Getting a small nozzle tube to force the cleaning liquid into the small space/crack/gap might be a problem to penetrate far enough into the assembly to solve the issue.