I bout a 99 Camry XLE two years ago, and it came with a single key. The VIN and maintenance records indicate that it had a fob with it as well. So I went to a salvage yard and picked up three keyfobs that are similar to what my car should use. Searching online has yielded three options for programming; button on the receiver, shorting mirror wires, and a crazy combination of key/door/lock activation.

After thoroughly searching under the dash, center console, and seats, I cannot find the magic box (referenced here) with the reprogramming button anywhere. I did find the receiver listed below just under the radio area, but it had no buttons to program. I tried two or three different key/door/lock combinations, none of which did anything. The only thing that has gotten me anywhere is shorting the purple and black/white wires behind the mirror control switch. The problem is that instead of cycling the locks, it just locks the doors and I have to put the key in the ignition to get them to unlock again.

Any insight on a way to program a new remote would be appreciated. My only other options at the moment seem to be an aftermarket system (which I already have from my last car) that would disable my security system, or taking it to the dealership and paying 50 bucks with no guarantee that it would even work with the new remote.

My car has a security light under the RPM gauge. Part numbers from the VIN are:
Reciever: 89741-AA010
Transmitter: 89742-AA010
Buzzer: 89747 (Does not have)
Detailed name: 01/1999 TOYOTA CAMRY (SXV20L-CEPGKA)
Detailed type: XLE NAP USA 5SFE ATM

Keyfob:
FCC ID: HYQ12BAN
RSS - 210
Circuit ID: 251251-5010
One has Lock, Unlock, Trunk in a vertical row and the panic button on the back, the other has everything but the trunk button. It is the option on the right in this link.

 

Did you try this

 

That one is new, I'll try it tonight.

I noticed late last night as well that the FCC ID from this site can be found in Chrystler remotes as well. Would you know if it is more important to match the brand or the FCC ID? It would make sense that a remote broadcasting on the same frequency spectrum would still work even though it was for a different car model, right? If that were the case, it would be super because a Chrystler remote is about 5 bucks online where a Toyota remote is generally $80 or more.

The FCC ID on my 'new' remote has differing results when I search for compatibility, whereas the GQ43VT14T and GQ43VT7T both seem pretty uniform on compatibility. Amazon remote has the same FCC ID as the Camry, so I may go back to the salvage yard and see if I can find another remote that has the proper ID rather than just the Toyota logo.

 

Programming issues include factory or dealer installed system.

This system is RS3000.

Type in 89742-AA010 and determine if your FOB's look like the one in returned photos.

 

Keep us posted, please.

 

So I finally solved the problem. As I said in the original question, I had tried several different options and only the shorting seemed to work. It finally clicked last week that remotes would output different frequencies, so I borrowed my girlfriends spare remote (for a 98 6 cyl Camry) which happened to match the FCC ID that I needed.

It turns out the shorting did work, but instead of cycling the locks like many posts said, it just locked the doors. I then pressed the button on the remote and once I pulled the short, the remote worked perfectly. Now the only problem is that my remote locks and unlocks both cars..

 

Thanks for posting back. I guess you have a universal remote?