I looked through all the posts about timing belts and I didn't see anyone talk about how long it should take. I just bought a Haynes manual for it, so I have the procedure, but I'm wondering about how long this is going to take me? I also plan on replacing the waterpump @ the same time. Can any of you enthusiasts let me know how long it took you along with any tips and tricks you may have from your experience.
Thanks,


Dan

 

If doing it the first time suggest setting aside a long day or better a easy weekend. The website www.autozone.com should have details on changing the belt and water pump complete with drawings.

The job is not difficult, but doing it the first time requires figuring things out, getting tools, etc.

You will need to remove the crank pulley using a bolt on puller (not jaw type) to avoid damaging it. The bolt holes in the pulley are either 10 or 12 mm.

Prior to this you will need to restrain the pulley (crankshaft) to unbolt the crank bolt. Suggest fabricating a section of wood with holes that can be bolted to the pulley via the the bolt holes above. Fabricate a hole in the wood to allow allow access for the crank bolt socket.

Make the section of wood long is enough that when the crank rotates the wood binds up on the chassis or ground and prevents rotation.

Access to the upper engine mount bolted to the engine is limited but with a little patience the bolt can be unbolted (although not removed from the bracket).

Replacing the pump is straight forward. You only need to replace the pump, not take off the front engine housing.

Also at this time check for oil leakage at the cam, crank and oil pump seals. All can start to leak after a time. Check the idler pulley bearings for roughness.

There is no need to mark the belt as pointed out in many manuals, just line up the crank pulley at TDC and cam with the hole lined up on the upper cam bearing notch. Use a mirror if required to perfectly line up the hole/mark.

When rotating the crank CW tighten the tensioner bolt. Rotate crank 2 times CW and recheck timing marks. If off, make adjustments and recheck. It is possible due to belt slack take up for the cam pulley to rotate and be off. If so, do the job again and move the cam pulley forward or back 1 tooth.

The timing belt cover seal often is damaged or just old. If so use some silicone gasket material to hold the old gasket in place or repair.

After the job is done, re-time engine following the Toyota proceedure.

Suggest using a Toyota OEM timing belt (even if more expensive), have had issues of belt noise (whine) with other brands.

 

Thanks for your insight Toyomoho. I had a couple questions for you if you don't mind....

"Access to the upper engine mount bolted to the engine is limited but with a little patience the bolt can be unbolted (although not removed from the bracket). "

Is this a situation where I don't have to remove the bolt, I can just work around the fact that the bolt is still in the bracket?

"When rotating the crank CW tighten the tensioner bolt. Rotate crank 2 times CW and recheck timing marks. If off, make adjustments and recheck. It is possible due to belt slack take up for the cam pulley to rotate and be off. If so, do the job again and move the cam pulley forward or back 1 tooth."

I don't really understand how the tensioner works. Isn't the tensioner spring what maintains the tension on the belt? The way you and the books describe this procedure, it sounds like the tensioner pulley is tightened down to the block / head and doesn't move at all once the tension is set? This also could be one of those things I understand better once I see it in action.

Again...thanks for the tips. I've been working on cars for 15 years, I've just never done anything to this one yet since I've owned it short of oil-change,air-filter, brakes, tires, etc...easy stuff.

 

As to question 1. There should be 3 bolts holding the bracket on, 2 have limited access and cannot be fully removed after unbolting. Unbolt the furthest bolt first to allow access to the nearest bolt, then pull out the bracket and bolts together. Use a 6-point box wrench to prevent rounding over the bolt heads of the 2 limited access bolts.

As to the question 2. The tensioner is just used to pretension the belt. The tensioner pulley is eventually bolted tight to the engine and fixed.

The manual has nothing about rotating the engine as the tensioner bolt is tightened, I do this to take a little more slack out of the belt. Some owners use a bar to pry on the tensioner and take even more slack out. The issue for them is belt slap and noise.

The job is straight forward enough, just a little learning curve, etc. After you do the job once, the time required for the next belt change will be much less.

Be sure to get the cam and crank pulley alignment correct. More then one person has not done this only to have issues starting the engine or getting it to run correctly.

 

Toyomoho,
I plan doing the timing belt this upcoming weekend. I have one more question if you don't mind....the 10 or 12mm bolt holes in the crank pulley...I assume that the 10 or 12mm bolt holes are just that...holes for the puller and there's no bolt already in those holes and I need to go to my local hardware store to buy some long bolts. Is my assumption correct?

Dan

 

You will need to put bolts in those holes to pull the pully but, i'm not sure they need to be "long". It should be a pretty easy job but, you may run into some snags. Just take your time and you'll be okay.

 

Yes, just threaded holes. Assume they are 10mm but not 100% sure. 10 or 12mm. The grip length should be long enough to secure to it whatever your using to keep it from turning as you unbolt it and of course to mount the puller.

 

You will need to put screws in those gaps to take the pully but, i'm not sure they need to be "long". It should be a fairly simple job but, you may run into some snags. Just take your some time to energy and you'll be fine with it...

 

The manual has nothing about rotating the engine as the tensioner bolt is tightened, I do this to take a little more slack out of the belt. Some owners use a bar to pry on the tensioner and take even more slack out. The issue for them is belt slap and noise.

 

the two bolts they are referring to are two lower bolts for the upper motor mount bracket. when doing the timing belt you are going to have to remove two motor mounts, this one on the top passenger side and the front one down near the bottom of the radiator. the reason is you need to lower the engine a little bit to access the ps pump and the crank pulley removal. and you will then have to raise the motor to get clearance for those two pesky bolts reffered to earlier. a shallow 14mm socket with a one inch extension and a low profile 3/8 ratchet will be your best friend here. you will see exactly how muck when you get in there. its literally like a inch is all it needs to be raised. take off the altenator ,belt and side altenator bracket to make visualization of the bolts easier. i found it best to put the car up on jack stands and remove the passenger tire during this entire job. good luck! pay attention to the timing marks!