Idles fine, as soon as I put it into drive or reverse its fine for about 7 secs then starts to shake, idle drops to point that check engine light comes on. Any ideas?

 

and if I put it back into park or neutral - its fine.

 

Low idle itself may not cause the check light to come on.

If the light is coming on have any trouble codes read out.

The IAC valve controls idle. Suggest reading up on the valve via an internet search.

 

Thanks Joey - Idle itself is fine in neutral and park as far as RPM goes (reves up without miss) about 5 secs after I put car into drive or reverse and hold brake it starts to shake and labor. If I put it back into Park or nuetral it is fine, rumbling stops and idle (with RPM) is good. It's my daughters car (was mine) and started after driving 20/30 miles so engine would have been warm - but it was cold when I went out and did my analysis (if you can call it that )

 

So, when the trans is placed in gear the idle is OK for 5 seconds +/- , then the car starts to shake? If so what is the PRM before the shaking starts? What happens to the RPM when the shaking starts, stays the same, drops?

If you take your foot off the brake what happens.

Check trans fluid for quantity and color.

If the car is drivable how is the engine power, OK, lack of power, etc?

If the check light is coming on get any codes read.

 

Ok so had codes read it is a "mis-fire" code but didn't pinpoint which cylinder, ignition pack, fuel pump, etc. Drove it around today - it actually runs "Decent" on highway (especially when cold) but struggles to stay running at a dead stop in drive, sputters a little then takes off. I changed the front plugs, doing the back tomorrow because they are going to be a PITA and it snowed 4" here last night so laneway was not an option. Have access to heated gargae tomorrow. I seriously think it feels like a fuel pump - like all cylinders are not getting enough gas - no idea - any advice much appreciated!

 

What were the exact code numbers?

 

Hello I'm having this same issue with a 98 camry 4 cyl. I just put a new cylinder head on (the previous one was cracked) and the car has the same exact symptoms as the op. There is a CEL but i do not have access to a scanner at the moment. I wont be able to get the scanner for a few days and would really just like to get it running smoothly. Thank you for any info.

 

If the engine ran OK prior to repairs. Recheck all wiring and hose connections.

Rather then guess, best to get codes.

 

Ok i just talked to my buddy with the scanner and I'm picking it up today around 2pm. I will post the codes when i get them.

The previous issue was a cracked cylinder head and there was water/coolant in the #3 spark plug hole and in the cylinder once the head was removed. I replaced all gaskets and seals, there were no codes for any sensors previously so i did not replace any sensors. The only other main thing i didnt replace were the spark plug wires, I'm wondering if the #3 spark plug that was flooded with water is bad? it does look rusty a little, so I know it was submerged in water/coolant.