Has anyone tried the Iridium plugs? I have a 2001 RAV4 that uses the Iridium plugs.

 

what do you want to know about them...?

 

Will they be beneficial to the Camry V6 or should I stick with the platinum plugs?

 

the only benfit is, you replace the plugs every 120k with the iridium and 60k with plat...and of course the iridium are twice the price....i would stick with plat unless you're going to keep your car for the next 120k

 

The car has 200,000 and I plan on keeping it for at least another 100,000. Would the Iridium plugs boost gas mileage or performance?

 

sadly not without other upgrades.
only thing it'll do is last longer than platinum.
i would honstly rather change plat every 50-60k then to keep irid in there for 90-100k.

 

Well, I just did the plugs on my V6, what a freakin hassle. Front 3 easy as pie, the back 3 well "expletive deleted." Seriously, who puts sparks UNDER an inlet manifold? Running beautifully now though.

 

We tackled this job just last weekend on our 2000 with 189,000 miles. We too had random misfire and rear bank (cyls 1, 3, 5) codes. May I recommend you install a new wire set while you're at it. You do not want to revisit this job anytime soon.

We liberated and lifted the intake manifold plenum and pulled it forward in order to get at the rear bank plugs. My son and I are C+ students with limited tools when it comes to turning wrenches. This is a bit of work, but you'll see why you need to get the plenum out of the way. There is just no working blind back there with the impossible space between the plenum and the firewall. (The intake manifold "plenum" is that silverish thing that sits atop the engine.)

(buy a gasket set for the plenum, just in case; return it if the old gasket is good. the kit includes a gasket for the throttle body also; same story)


1. Remove the engine cover pad that connects from the plenum forwards (towards you at the front of the car). It has that cool writing on it "24 valve, etc." using an allen wrench, 5 mm, two screws. The back just pops up.

2. Disconnect the air duct to the air filter from the throttle body. You'll have to loosen the air filter cover. Pay close attention to any vacuum tube disconnects and the necessary wire clips.

3. Remove the top two bolts and two lower nuts on the throttle body and pull that portion which has been cleared by the duct, out of the way.

4. A cast iron exhaust return assembly is connected to the remaining portion of the throttle body built into the plenum. Remove the five nuts and pull the line/assembly forward freeing it from the plenum. (Watch out for the metal gaskets) You want the plenum to be free to be pulled up off its posts and forward to give you the room between it and the firewall.

5. I have no idea what the name of the attachment is to the plenum that is top left from your view from the front of the car. It is round-shaped and has two wires connected to one post. Remove those wires.

6. Using the new gasket you've bought, look for the metal-ringed holes for the bolts in the plenum. There are four fasteners that secure the plenum. (The two fasteners on the left and right are nuts. The two in the middle are allen nuts)

5. On each side of the plenum, as you're addressing it from the front of the car (left and right) are brackets that secure the plenum between the plenum and the firewall. Each is secured by one bolt easily found with your fingers. Remove those bolts. The plenum should now be free to lift off the engine.

7. The plenum must be lifted straight up off the post bolts it sits on. CAREFULLY use flat screwdrivers on each side to free it up, so not to damage the gasket. There will be pull and resistance with the tight space and other objects and even vacuum lines. Gently lift and clear the posts and pull the plenum back towards you, away from the firewall. PLACE A RAG OR PIECE OF LIGHT CARDBOARD OVER THE NOW OPEN CYLINDERS UNDER THE RAISED PLENUM. You get something down in there while you're working and your engine is toast.

8. Wow! A bit of work but it's worth it to see cylinders 1, 3 and 5 there for the plucking!

9. Once we got it all buttoned up, it was running rough. There was a rather large unconnected vacuum hose I didn't notice we'd pulled just below the wires to the round thing on the plenum on the left side, right by the left bracket. Check all vacuum hose connections.

10. The front three are easy, of course. If you're replacing the wire set too, use your head and do one at a time, comparing the length of the old wire to the new one, ONE BACK PLUG AT A TIME.

11. The front three, 2, 4, and 6 are seated under coils that share two plugs. Remove the 10 mm bolt, pull the cone and replace the plug. This end of your new wire connects to the coil. Go ahead and break all that brittle plastic to get the old one off. I've got broken plastic guys everywhere and have to use zip ties to keep stuff together.

Like I said, we're C+ students and, with a little patience and ingenuity, you can do it. Realistically, if you're like us, give yourself a couple of motrin and four hours.

Good luck. These bad little engines are worth the engineering nightmare required to make them fit in these cars.

 

to much extra work no reason for it , you can get the back 3 whit out removing the intake plenum , this job only pays 1.9 hour of labor .