Hello. Wanted some opinions here if possible. Anyway I am going to have to replace head gasket in my 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2 L which has 118,000 miles on it. It is currently loosing fluid, but no where to be seen dripping. I took the car to my mechanic just to see what he thought. He performed a compression test and they were all cylinders within range. He added some K-Seal that temporally helped it run smoother, but after about a month it starting to run much rougher especially at idle. The oil level is good and still normal color not signs of water mixing. He said it is definitely a small head gasket leak since white smoke is coming out of exhaust. It would have to be eventually replaced. That time is now. I the past I replaced a few head gaskets on engines, but never on this type. The only Toyota I replaced a head gasket on a few years ago was a Tercel with a 3E engine. That was my first Toyota and found it much easier to work on than Nissan, Ford, and Chevy. That is why I have the Camry now. To get this done the best price for R&R of the head was $1300.00 which includes the reconditioning of the cylinder head. I came across top end gasket for $140.00 and timing belt kit set for around $75.00 and I will still have the head reconditioned which would approx. $200.00. I was wondering actually how difficult it is with this type of motor and anything that I should be careful with like the head bolts that may strip out? Read that on another thread. Anything else that anyone here ran into that may make it not worth the difference and just get it done? Other than a socket for the heads bolts any other special tools needed? Like I said I replaced one on a 3E engine which I found quite easy, but this 2.2L one has me a bit concerned.

 

I my posting above I failed to mentioned that I do have a Toyota delaer engine service manual as well as Hayne's. I find the service manual pretty detailed much more so than Hayne's since it only covers the 1993 model year for my car.

 

there is nothing hard about it. no special tools needed. only one considered special that some people dont have is you need a 12 point 12mm socket to take off the head bolts. if you have any specific questions post and we'll do our best to help.

 

I am almost ready to get the head off. Still have intake manifold, injectors and then remove the timing belt from camshaft sprocket. The difference I see with this engine and the 3E other than a dual cam is that I can't see how the injectors would come out without taking off the intake manifold. Also the camshafts will have to be removed in order to get access to the head bolts. At least that is the way my manual is guiding me.

 

i do have to loossen the intake manifold. you just take it off the 2 supporting studs at each end and let it chill. when i did it i couldnt take the intake manifold out because 1 the engine sits slnnted towards the back leaving NO ROOM TO WORK! and 2 because the fuel rail.

cliff notes:
take off intake manifold but leave it chillin
take off fuel rail
now you can remove the intake mani
remove head.

 

Have two bolts remaing from the intake. Pulled the fuel rial out. These bolts are really hard to get to. I am comparing it with a 3E engine. These two are on the passenger side. Maybe just go under the car to get them off? Not sure. This engine is not what I thought it would being Toyota. Always thought they were easy to work on. 3E was. What happened? This one so far is a bear.

 

Just to update this a bit and thanks for the input so far.
I finally have both the exhaust and intake manifold/fuel injector rail, etc. Have to still take the head off. Looks like a pain since both cams have to come out before removing the head. Also have to remove the timimg belt (going to replace it). I guess jack it up remove passenger wheel and underside splash engine mount and use an impact wrench. Going to send the head out for reconditioning. I realize the cams get adjusted with shims. I guess the adjustments can be made when I send it out. I will be replacing both cams once the head is removed. Am I correct in assuming this? Also if any shims would be required is the dealer the only place that I can buy them?
Any other pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Looks a bit more complicated than I had anticipated.

 

Did you take the head to a machine shop for plaining? ive always been told when you do that you should have the head machined before you put it back on. they just level the base part that sits on the top of the head gasket.i was just curious if you did this.Sorry im a long time lurker, mainley im on CRX community..but i saw this how to and wanted to ask. msado15 dll error

 

Yes I took it to a machine shop for a total work over. Found a few hairline cracks which are going to be tig welded as well as some valves being replaced and the rest ground to spec. Also wondering if this is workable. Since the intake manifold was the hardest thing I found to take out couldn't I just mount that and the fuel rail on the head prior to placing the head on the block?
Let me know.
Thanks.

 

quoted: "Since the intake manifold was the hardest thing I found to take out couldn't I just mount that and the fuel rail on the head prior to placing the head on the block?"

if you can do it then by all means. the hardest thing about doing that is with the fuel rail attached, the fuel line being attached to the fuel rail might make it hard to put all together. you could disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter and put it all together like you said and then bolt the head back on and it would be a breeze. if you do do that remember to open your gas cap, or else fuel will squirt like crazy after taking off the fuel line from the fuel filter.