Removing an engine
#1
03-11-2015, 11:53 AM
Removing an engine
I have a 2001 Camry (4 banger) that needs a new engine. I was told that the scary engine knocks that I am hearing is my linkage arm bouncing around
!
I am asking, I guess, for a check list of sorts that covers of what I need to have done before the engine comes out. I have done some car work in the past (water pump, engine mounts, transmission gasket). This will be my first engine removal/swap. I did read here in the forum that I should take the engine out from the top with the transmission. I assume that is all I really need to know on how to take the engine out.
I will post pictures of how it goes for those that are interested and will also, once I get a chance, will post of what is really knocking around in the engine.
The engine that I am going to be putting back in as the car that it already has. 2001 Camry 4 cylinder.
Anything helps! Thanks!
!I am asking, I guess, for a check list of sorts that covers of what I need to have done before the engine comes out. I have done some car work in the past (water pump, engine mounts, transmission gasket). This will be my first engine removal/swap. I did read here in the forum that I should take the engine out from the top with the transmission. I assume that is all I really need to know on how to take the engine out.
I will post pictures of how it goes for those that are interested and will also, once I get a chance, will post of what is really knocking around in the engine.
The engine that I am going to be putting back in as the car that it already has. 2001 Camry 4 cylinder.
Anything helps! Thanks!
Last edited by Neverrack; 03-11-2015 at 12:02 PM.
#2
03-11-2015, 01:22 PM
First obtain some type of service information. A Haynes manual is pretty good and cheap at $20. Or search the internet for Toyota Camry service manual PDF files. They are out there if you look.
The devil is in the details.
The 2001 is part of the Gen 4 Camry series built 1997 to 2001, thus any info in this year range will be useful.
From a California emissions standpoint there were two Camry types sold. One meeting California emissions and the other federal emissions. Make sure your replacement engine is the same emissions as the one in the car. There may be sticker in the engine compartment, on the underside of the hood, on the side of the drivers door stating what emissions standard the car was built to.
The California engine would have a second emission converter on the exhaust manifold.
Removing the engine is straight forward but have a few suggestions:
You are going to need to remove the axles, thus park the car in the finally location you are going to be removing/replacing the engine at. No axles means no tires and not moving the car. The chassis will need to be high enough to be able to slide under the engine/trans to work.
The axle hub nut is torqued to something like 217 ft-lbs thus will need a large wrench to apply this force when removing and installing the nut.
The passengers side axle has a carrier bearing that can freeze up in its housing due to rust making removal difficult. If so, remove the housing along with the axle/bearing. Then work on the unit at a bench.
The bearing is held in by both a set screw and cir-clip, thus make sure you remove both.
The drivers side axle is held into the differential by an expanding snap ring at the end of the axle drive shaft. You can't just pull it out. Use a pry bar behind the CV joint to apply force and "pop" it free.
Take caution not to damage the diff axle seals when removing and installing the axle or a leak can occur. When install the drivers side axle you will need to carefully but forcefully ram it in to the diff.
If you have a digital camera suggest taking pictures of everything for reference when reassembling. If possible group and mark all bolts. Mark all wiring even if it appears obvious. It is easy to forget what goes where upon reassembly. All this takes time but will greatly speed up reassemble!
The fuel line is under pressure, thus place a towel around to keep the fuel from spraying out when you remove the line.
Although the original engine/trans was installed from below, suggest going out from the top and as unit. The engine may have a lift point hook already on it. You may have to tilt the engine/trans combo down on the drivers side to clear the trans.
Drain the trans in the pan and diff fluid from its housing (these are separate). Note the trans will still have 2/3 of the fluid in the torque converter which should stay there. Once the trans out, don't drain the torque converter as it does not self prime.
When splitting the trans and engine take note of how the torque converter is installed. The converter has a hollow tube drive shaft the engages the fluid pump in the trans using a tang and groove system. It has happened if the converter is pulled out then re-installed the tang and groove do not engage. The result being the converter now sticks out of the bell housing just enough not to be notice. But enough that when the trans is bolted to the engine the converter shaft drives into the fluid pump and damages it.
Make sure the converter shaft is engaged into the pump shaft.
When unbolting the trans converter from the flex plate take note of the orientation of the bolts. One bolt may be black. Rotate the flex black to orient this bolt at the bottom. At assembly when bolting up the flex plate, install black bolt in the same location as removed plus other bolts. Keeps bolts loose enough that as the flex plate is rotated it can shift around with the converter. Rotate the flex plate/converter CW until black bolt is now at the bottom (same as before it was unbolted). Then fully tighten black bolt first and then others. This aligns the converter oil pump drive shaft with a bushing to prevent bushing wear over time.
The rest is straight forward.
The knock may be a rod bearing. One test is to disconnect a one spark plug wire at a time and listen if the knock becomes more faint. The cylinder not firing takes the compression load off the piston and thus bearing. Don't drive the car too long without repair as the rod may come out the side of the block.
Post back with photos, your progress and if needing more help.
The devil is in the details.
The 2001 is part of the Gen 4 Camry series built 1997 to 2001, thus any info in this year range will be useful.
From a California emissions standpoint there were two Camry types sold. One meeting California emissions and the other federal emissions. Make sure your replacement engine is the same emissions as the one in the car. There may be sticker in the engine compartment, on the underside of the hood, on the side of the drivers door stating what emissions standard the car was built to.
The California engine would have a second emission converter on the exhaust manifold.
Removing the engine is straight forward but have a few suggestions:
You are going to need to remove the axles, thus park the car in the finally location you are going to be removing/replacing the engine at. No axles means no tires and not moving the car. The chassis will need to be high enough to be able to slide under the engine/trans to work.
The axle hub nut is torqued to something like 217 ft-lbs thus will need a large wrench to apply this force when removing and installing the nut.
The passengers side axle has a carrier bearing that can freeze up in its housing due to rust making removal difficult. If so, remove the housing along with the axle/bearing. Then work on the unit at a bench.
The bearing is held in by both a set screw and cir-clip, thus make sure you remove both.
The drivers side axle is held into the differential by an expanding snap ring at the end of the axle drive shaft. You can't just pull it out. Use a pry bar behind the CV joint to apply force and "pop" it free.
Take caution not to damage the diff axle seals when removing and installing the axle or a leak can occur. When install the drivers side axle you will need to carefully but forcefully ram it in to the diff.
If you have a digital camera suggest taking pictures of everything for reference when reassembling. If possible group and mark all bolts. Mark all wiring even if it appears obvious. It is easy to forget what goes where upon reassembly. All this takes time but will greatly speed up reassemble!
The fuel line is under pressure, thus place a towel around to keep the fuel from spraying out when you remove the line.
Although the original engine/trans was installed from below, suggest going out from the top and as unit. The engine may have a lift point hook already on it. You may have to tilt the engine/trans combo down on the drivers side to clear the trans.
Drain the trans in the pan and diff fluid from its housing (these are separate). Note the trans will still have 2/3 of the fluid in the torque converter which should stay there. Once the trans out, don't drain the torque converter as it does not self prime.
When splitting the trans and engine take note of how the torque converter is installed. The converter has a hollow tube drive shaft the engages the fluid pump in the trans using a tang and groove system. It has happened if the converter is pulled out then re-installed the tang and groove do not engage. The result being the converter now sticks out of the bell housing just enough not to be notice. But enough that when the trans is bolted to the engine the converter shaft drives into the fluid pump and damages it.
Make sure the converter shaft is engaged into the pump shaft.
When unbolting the trans converter from the flex plate take note of the orientation of the bolts. One bolt may be black. Rotate the flex black to orient this bolt at the bottom. At assembly when bolting up the flex plate, install black bolt in the same location as removed plus other bolts. Keeps bolts loose enough that as the flex plate is rotated it can shift around with the converter. Rotate the flex plate/converter CW until black bolt is now at the bottom (same as before it was unbolted). Then fully tighten black bolt first and then others. This aligns the converter oil pump drive shaft with a bushing to prevent bushing wear over time.
The rest is straight forward.
The knock may be a rod bearing. One test is to disconnect a one spark plug wire at a time and listen if the knock becomes more faint. The cylinder not firing takes the compression load off the piston and thus bearing. Don't drive the car too long without repair as the rod may come out the side of the block.
Post back with photos, your progress and if needing more help.
#5
03-16-2015, 11:39 AM
First day working on my project engine swap. I got the radiator, air intake, center exhaust, and another few things. I was unable to get the transaxle out. There were some rusted bolts that didn't want to move. Also the driver side boot came undone and all the oil came out of it. So that it a problem for another time.
#7
03-24-2015, 07:57 PM
I have finally survived to my spring brake and have actually done some good progress on my car/project. I have worked over 12 hours on it for the last two days. Check out the pictures to see exactly what I have accomplished. This is very difficult. I, as of now, have everything off of the old engine and on the new one. Also have everything that needs to be done with the transmission and torque converter. While I was in the transmission I changed out the torque converter seal.
I did have lots of oil come out of the torque converter and I was told that it dose not prime itself. Do I need to add more oil into there before I put it all back together?
I did have lots of oil come out of the torque converter and I was told that it dose not prime itself. Do I need to add more oil into there before I put it all back together?
#8
03-25-2015, 10:52 AM
The converter needs at least 1 quart to self prime.
If you have the service manual you can figure out how much fluid the converter holds and the pan holds. This based on the amount for a pan drain/refill (about 2 quarts) and total trans capacity (about 6 quarts). So 4 quarts is in the valving and converter.
The internet has videos on filling the converter with fluid. Zero fluid is bad! The trans needs at least a 1 quart to self prime. Add 2-3 quarts based on your guess of what drained out, it need not be exact.
The internet also has suggestions of what parts to grease prior to installing the torque converter such as seals, trans output shaft, etc. This will help ease the parts together. See link for generic info:
Torque Converter Installation Guide
Make sure the torque converter oil pump drive tube is fully engaged with the oil pump! The manual has a measuring method to inspect for this using a straight edge and measuring tool. If the converter is not engaged, it will stick out slightly from the bell housing then when mounting the trans to the engine and pulling it up together, ram into the oil pump and damage it.
Take note if not already knowing, the differential has it own fluid chamber. Make sure you refill this after the car is back together. Use the same auto trans fluid.
When installing the drive shafts ends into the differential, be CAREFULL not to nick the diff seals. For the drivers side, install the shaft end into the diff making sure the splines align with the diff gearing, then RAM IT in. If it doesn't engage, repeat the alignment process and try again. Don't get carried away and trying to ram it in as the seal can be easily nicked resulting in a leak. Sooner or later the shaft will engage.
When bolting the converter to the flex plate make sure to follow the Toyota procedures about the black bolt, rotating the trans etc. This lines up converter properly with the trans.
If you have the service manual you can figure out how much fluid the converter holds and the pan holds. This based on the amount for a pan drain/refill (about 2 quarts) and total trans capacity (about 6 quarts). So 4 quarts is in the valving and converter.
The internet has videos on filling the converter with fluid. Zero fluid is bad! The trans needs at least a 1 quart to self prime. Add 2-3 quarts based on your guess of what drained out, it need not be exact.
The internet also has suggestions of what parts to grease prior to installing the torque converter such as seals, trans output shaft, etc. This will help ease the parts together. See link for generic info:
Torque Converter Installation Guide
Make sure the torque converter oil pump drive tube is fully engaged with the oil pump! The manual has a measuring method to inspect for this using a straight edge and measuring tool. If the converter is not engaged, it will stick out slightly from the bell housing then when mounting the trans to the engine and pulling it up together, ram into the oil pump and damage it.
Take note if not already knowing, the differential has it own fluid chamber. Make sure you refill this after the car is back together. Use the same auto trans fluid.
When installing the drive shafts ends into the differential, be CAREFULL not to nick the diff seals. For the drivers side, install the shaft end into the diff making sure the splines align with the diff gearing, then RAM IT in. If it doesn't engage, repeat the alignment process and try again. Don't get carried away and trying to ram it in as the seal can be easily nicked resulting in a leak. Sooner or later the shaft will engage.
When bolting the converter to the flex plate make sure to follow the Toyota procedures about the black bolt, rotating the trans etc. This lines up converter properly with the trans.
Last edited by toyomoho; 03-25-2015 at 10:55 AM.
#9
04-26-2015, 03:22 PM
FINALLY! I have the engine in the car and everything connected and hooked up... or I think that I do. Reason being that I have no spark, none at all. I tried more then one coil to no avail. I have a CreaderVI and it isn't throwing any codes. The car does crank and turn over. Also, by some strange anomaly, the battery keeps going dead. When I initially took it out for disassemble I had set it on top of a wooden counter top. Putting it back into the vehicle it was charged and ready to go, but over night it lost all of it's power. I am guessing a ground cable somewhere maybe? It is possible that the issues are related?
Last edited by Neverrack; 04-26-2015 at 03:26 PM. Reason: Adding pictures
#10
04-26-2015, 04:59 PM
If you have a milliamp meter place it between the one of the battery cables and battery terminals to check for excess parasitic current drains when ign key is off. It could be something is draining the battery when it is connected up. If you don't have a meter, for now disconnect a battery cable when not working on the car, such as leaving it over night.
Is the timing belt installed properly along with cam and crank sensors plus wires connected?
As to codes, the computer needs to run through a preset testing procedure at least twice which requires in part the engine to be running.
With ign switch to ON, check for +12v at the brown/red wires going to the ign coils.
Is the timing belt installed properly along with cam and crank sensors plus wires connected?
As to codes, the computer needs to run through a preset testing procedure at least twice which requires in part the engine to be running.
With ign switch to ON, check for +12v at the brown/red wires going to the ign coils.
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