Hi folks!

I'm Brian, nice to meet you all. I just bought a used 99 Camry 2.2 with 170k miles. I'm DETERMINED to keep this car for at least another 5 years, and I'm doing everything in my power to keep it running smooth.

The gent I bought it from has now retired and moved to Florida and I'm having difficulty finding him so I can figure out when he last changed the timing belt/WP. Well, I've given up on that, and decided it's better safe than sorry. I don't care if the belt is a month old, I'm replacing it... and the tensioner and water pump. It's worth it to me.

Aside from pistons & transmissions, shocks, or anything that requires a lift, I do all my own work. It's fun & therapeutic for me! I really want to do this job myself, with the help of a gearhead buddy of mine.

OK, here we go... I found this great article: http://www.ehow.com/how_4508686_repl...ota-camry.html

trouble is, it specifies 2 types of engines... the 1MZ-FE, and the 2AZ-FE. They are totally different instructions, but I have no clue which engine is mine. I looked at every sticker I could find, and the closest "FE" label I saw was on a sticker under the hood.

It said "Engine Class: XTYXV02.2GXB" and then below it "5S-FE". So what is my engine?? A 1MZ or a 2AZ?

---- another topic ----

I'm coming from a lifetime of American cars. My last car was a 2003 Monte with low miles. I pampered that car, and the transmission died for no reason... out of warranty. I am SO furious with American cars that I finally moved to Toyota (and I LOVE my Camry!!)

But as far as the engine goes, I've had good luck with synthetic fluid. I also usually replace a quart of oil with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil (yes, even with synthetic). any advice on this??

And yes, I'm going to do an engine wash, a tranny flush, and 5 treatments of Lucas' fuel system cleaner.

Well, any feedback would be appreciated!! Thanks in advance, and it's very nice to meet you all.

 

Anyone?

 

You have the 5S-FE. The 1MZ is the V6 and the 2AZ is the 2.4l 4cylinder. Timing belt replacement is very simple. Replace the H20 Pump only if its leaking or if it is an aftermarket pump (replace with OEM unit). Your engine is a non interference engine- so unless the timing belt is loose (rattles when revving the engine), you can pretty much NOT worry about it and just let it be. The tension to the timing belt will usually loosen over time allowing the tbelt to rattle. Use this as your indicator when to replace it.
As far as your other topic- 3.75 quarts of oil is all you need. Don't waste your money substituting with MM or any other snake oil. Fuel injector additive is also a waste of money. Get your fuel from stations that have additional detergent in it (Shell or Chevron, etc) using ONLY REGULAR GRADE and you'll be fine.

JJ

 

Thanks, JJ!!! Good to know I don't have to replace the water pump.

Maybe it's just coincidence, but when I start my vehicle after it's been sitting for 8+ hours, I usually had difficulty starting. It would stall out, and i'd have to give it a little gas for about 20 seconds to keep it alive. Since I've been doing the lucas treatments, however, I swear it's been getting better.

Any ideas as to why it's having cold-start issues??

 

Does the idle speed respond to the AC being turned on or the steering wheel is turned to the left and right? If not- you may have a faulty IAC valve.

JJ

 

Thanks again, JJ... No, the idle is NOT affected by steering or AC. And my buddy Scott, who is a major gear head, agrees with you. Looks like I'll be saving up for a new IAC

 

Hey mate,

You might not have to buy a whole IAC valve... just spray some TB cleaner straight into the lil diamond shaped inlet when you take off the air intake hose... give it a good spraying and let it sit for about 10 mins. Turn the car over (will blow white smoke for a while, might not turn over first go either) but this should fix the issue... had to do it on my 3VZ once upon a time... never had a problem since.