I replaced my rear struts and now doing the fronts and following the manual does not look too hard.


Any feedback besides rusted bolts, nuts.

From auto zone - #5 what is this match mark, figure 9 why lower vehicle or how when its on stands?

1. Remove the hubcap and loosen the lug nuts.
3. Raise and support the vehicle safely.

Do not support the weight of the vehicle on the suspension arm; the arm will deform under its weight.

1. Unfasten the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake hose and the ABS speed sensor wire from the shock absorber.
3. Matchmark on the shock absorber lower bracket and camber adjust cam, if equipped. Remove the 2 bolts and nuts which attach the shock absorber lower end to the steering knuckle lower arm.

Fig. Fig. 6: Unbolt and set aside the brake hose attached to the strut





Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the two strut mounting bolts





Fig. Fig. 8: A long bolt and nut retain the lower portion of the strut assembly





Fig. Fig. 9: Lower the vehicle and remove the three upper bearing support nuts on the strut tower





Fig. Fig. 10: With the aide of a helper, remove the strut from the under side of the vehicle





Fig. Fig. 11: Never open the strut assembly, a warning label is posted on the component

1. Remove the 3 nuts which secure the upper shock absorber mounting plate to the top of the wheel arch and remove the shock absorber with coil spring.

To install:

1. Align the hole in the upper suspension support with the shock absorber piston or end, so they fit properly.
2. Always use a new nut and nylon washer on the shock absorber piston rod end when securing it to the upper suspension support. Tighten the nut to 29-40 ft. lbs. (39-54 Nm).

 

Link since all will not copy for 1995


| Repair Guides | Front Suspension | Macpherson Struts | AutoZone.com

 

The link seems to have copied OK.

Deleted the other posts as duplicates.

Thanks for posting.

 

Thank you very much that looks much cleaner for feedback and less confusing. Take Care.

 

Just replaced all 4 on my 92 Camry last weekend. It wasn't bad at all. Actually the fronts are a lot easier to do than the rears. I replaced the stabilizer links as well.

 

As you said it was not difficult to remove the struts. The bonus was there were no bolts, nuts rusted on!!!! PB blasted a few days before and hit em with hammer. Woooo! I HATE, HATE, HATE RUSTED NUTS AND BOLTS.

Just broke them down this evening. I had some concern with the spring that broke at the bottom and as I compressed them ( oreillys spring compressor tool) concerned it would break since did not sound well. Stopped and blocked it, if it decided to fly, with some heavy equipment I had. All went well.

Purchasing 2 springs, 2 struts, and the stopper rings. All the other parts are surprisingly very good shape and no dry rot.

In addition since I have all this open the tie rods are worn and the inner tie rod baffles are dried out, rotted and cracked. These are easy to remove and replace. Replaced the stabilizer links a while ago.

Not sure if these are the original struts but they say Toyota. The strut when you push down should go back up but only partially and stops. You have to pull on it to go up.

Explains all the wear and tear.


Parts coming soon so will keep you posted on how it goes. Thanks for your feedback. I felt better going into this.

 

Parts in and found time to put back together.


One question, which way does strut bearing which I cleaned and regreased go. Outer rubber lip facing up or down. Can't find any clear picture on the net. Forgot how it goes before removed.

Thank you

 

The seal should face up.

If the bearing is upside down the edge of the outer shell (now up) will ride on the mount surface rather then the face as when installed correctly.

 

Just including pictures since there is nothing on the internet on the exact way to install not even in a manual from the strut mount part. At least from my search. Also is important to remember how it was removed. OOPS

 

Thank You toyomoho for your help.