I have a 93 Camry LE 4cyl. It starts and runs fine, no check engine lights. If it is driven on a hot day (85-90 degrees) with the a/c it will somtimes not start after being shut down for a short time. The engine turns over fine. I know it has to be spark or fuel. It will ALWAYS start again after 15 or 20 minutes of rest. The problem is so intermitent it is tough to bring it into a shop. I have been dealing with this for a couple years now. I checked to see if it was getting spark and it was. I changed the "circuit opening" relay behind the glove box (fuel pump relay). I was thinking of changing the EFI relay under the hood in the fuse box. The car had a whole distributor sytem installed by the previous owner. Can an ignition coil problem be that intermitant? Running out of ideas..my wife drives the car and it getting tired of the problem. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

Well, here we are 9 months later and now I can make this problem happen every time the engine is warm. Hoping someone can help me or this might get sold for scrap. Here is the current situation..

If I run the car for 15 minutes or more then let it sit for 5-10 minutes it will not start..every time. Over the past couple years the problem was very intermitant..maybe once every couple months. I have replaced the distributor (complete- coil and other components are inside of it) I have replaced the fuel filter, EFI relay and circuit open relay. I thought it must be a fuel problem. Today I waited for it to not start then I pulled the air intake off and sprayed starting fluid down the throttle body. It started right up and continued to idle just fine. I ran the test again later..no start, spray ether..start and run fine.

How can the engine not get fuel, but then run just fine with a spurt of spray. When it fires on the ether is that somehow restarting the fuel pump to give me fuel?? Any ideas at all would be greatly appreciated!!

 

When engine does not start, check for ign spark.

Look on the drivers or passengers side strut tower inside the engine compartment for a small plastic box (approx 3 x 1 inch) labeled Diagnostic.

Inside the box are electrical terminals. Connecting a wire between the B+ and FP terminals allows the fuel pump when the ign key is turned to start. Determine if priming the fuel system before starting does anything.

 

Hope you dont mind me jumping in here but my 95 camry has the identical problem.
I checked the ECT sensor at cold (~ 4000 ohms) and hot (~ 255 ohms) so I think
that is good. I then did as Joey suggested by shorting B+ and Fp. It did start with a
little help with the gas pedal. I then shut if off and removed the jumper and it did start again without the jumper. What does all this mean?
How can I check the codes of the check engine light? I had heard jumping TE1 and TE but I dont havve a TE in my diagnosis box. I do have a TE2? And then is it Key ON, KEY OFF, KEY ON?
Thanks
Kev

 

The weather has cooled off here for a few days and I could not get the problem to happen when I tried. I am going to try again later today or tommorow. Does anyone know what it would mean if the car does start if I jump a wire from fp to B+. I am wondering if this is an ECU glitch. I think that is the only thing I have not replaced that is in the sequence of starting the fuel pump. I will update when I know more..

 

you have distributor, right? replace distributor cap and rotor. If I were you. I'd have ignitor module replaced too.
you have something in your igntion that is sensitive to high temperature. they used to make modules, sealed in tar like substance, and over time, it deteriorates and starts causing trouble.

 

Both of you may be making this more complicated then required. Check for a HOT spark when the engine does not start. The spark should be able to jump 1/2 inch.

A failing coil can also cause these issues.

 

The distributor is brand new..not rebuilt. Richporter. I believe all the ignition parts are inside, coil, ignitor..etc...I am not driving this everyday, so it is kind of a side project. I will try to diagnose further and let you. Thank you for all the suggestions.

 

I've been trying to test for spark and am not getting any cooperation from the car. This is my first time testing for spark - so the first time it was bright sunshine and I think it
was too hard to see. Then 3 other attemps the car started after a 5 or 6 cranks.
So I'm not sure if it wasnt sparking and then it did spark. I need the car to not start to
ensure my finding are spark or not. I basically pulled the boot off one of the plugs and
stuck in an old spark plug and grounded it to my starter. Is this a good idea? I assume
its not a constant spark as the other 3 cylinders fire and then I see the fourth. Any idea
of the time delay between sparks?
Thanks for the advice

 

OK - finally - I was able to recreate my hot no start condition and I did not have any spark.
So what does this mean and how do I proceed next?
Thanks