I have a 4 cylinder 3S-FE engine in my 1989 Camry with 144k miles. Although I bought it 2 months ago in a gross state of disrepair with much deferred maintenance, it passed California smog and I'm almost done with all of the needed repairs (esp. changing all cooling system components). As of last week, compression was normal (153 psi on average) and there are no signs of a blown head gasket.

I understand that these are durable engines without design flaws, like the 3VZE 3L V6 or 5VZFE 3.4L V6, which are known to blow headgaskets.

In all the years I've owned cars, I had an old Volvo blow a headgasket on my watch. I bought it with a blown head gasket and used the headgasket sealer successfully such that the repair lasted a few years. I should have replaced the headgasket with that car and did so.

In this model engine, what's the approximate mileage that I should start to monitor closely for or go ahead and change the head gasket?

If the headbolts in my Camry appear intact, can I reuse them, or be safe and replace them?

Should I buy a rebuilt cylinder head to be safe, or have the existing cylinder head resurfaced?

Is there any value in having parts on reserve in case I blow a head gasket, such that I can do the repair immediately, as opposed to waiting for Amazon shipping? I do not have a spare daily driver, though I can borrow a friend's car if need be.

Apparently, the headbolts on the 3S-FE are 8 mm 12 point specialty torx (?), i.e. VIM-HB100 or OTC 6022. Is either one of those aftermarket products durable and reliable?

This is what I have in mind:


Thanks,

 

Manual states bolts only need replacing if they are deformed or don't torque up to spec.

The tool you list is for a 2G-SE which is a different engine. You head bolts use a female Torx socket.

As to anticipating head gasket failure, they don't just fail. Typically the head gasket will be fine unless engine overheated.

If rebuilding the old head. A valve job, resurfacing and pressure test will cost is around $300.

 

This discussion piqued my curiosity to learn more about cylinder heads.

I found a place on-line that sells rebuilt heads for $300, including shipping and 12 month/12k mile warranty. Is there an advantage of buying an already rebuilt head, as opposed to rebuilding a head that was in a current car?

Another vendor claims that 3S-GE and 1AZ-FE cylinder heads, L4, 2.0L, are compatible with my 3S-FE head. Do you agree?

I recall reading something in the past about burning oil as a result of resurfacing too much of the block or head surface. Is that true?

What, if anything, do I look for in a replacement head gasket, e.g. multi-layer steel, as is in the 3VZE replacement head gaskets?

Thanks

 

The choice of rebuilding a head versus buying a rebuilt depends on preference, convenience, cost, practicality, availability and more.

Having a head rebuilt or repaired by a machine shop takes time. There is also the possibility the head may have problems such as too warped or cracked. The result is needing a replacement head.

It is much easier and quicker for a repair shop to buy a rebuilt head.

A DYI’er may just want to swap heads rather the deal with finding a shop and having repairs done.

A head may be beyond repair and require replacement.

It is possible a rebuilt head is cheaper then having one repaired.

Some owners want to retain the original head as they know what they have. Although a rebuilt head should be OK, you don’t know the history of the part.

The choice is up to the shop or owner.

The 3S-GE can be swapped but suggest not doing so.

Don’t know about the 1AZ-FE head but doubt it as this is a completely different engine family.

As to head gaskets, the 3SFE is not prone to blowing them unless over heated. Some engines like the 3VZE are harder to seal by design and needed an improved gasket. For the 3SFE engine, any decent gasket should work fine.