Finally found a 96 2.2 engine to put in the daughters car at a reasonable price. One I pulled out is toast. Block is boreable and head is fine, but bottom end is trash. Replacement engine has 94K on it and I plan to pull the pan and replace the rear seal as well as timing belt before installing it. Anything else it would be smart to look at or replace before install?

 

Since you have gone to all the time and expense of changing the engine and the engine and trans are out suggest the following:

Replace the cam and crank seal. They can leak, not a big deal but easy job now.

Thought you stated your are installing a new oil pump. The pump never fails but the pump drive shaft seal does and this can be a major leak.

Inspect the idler bearings for roughness.

Check all coolant hoses. Had the bypass coolant hose slowly leak for a time then burst. Extremely difficult to spot where the leak was coming from as the hose is buried under various items.

If my car and original hoses would replace all of them. Too much time and money at stake for a few dollars worth of hoses.

Given you don't know the condition of the new engine might take a quick look at the freeze plugs. Rare to leak due to corrosion but the ones on the back are a pain to replace when the engine is installed.

If you are up to it, can remove the EGR valve and check for carbon plugging in the valve opening, head and tube. A common issue, easy enough to get out with engine out. This is an emissions issue, the car will still drive OK but the check engine may come on.

Check CV joint boots for splitting and damage, when you go to install the axles be careful when inserting the splined end of the shaft into the diff housing as the diff seal can be nicked, the result is a leak.

Maybe a new thermostat, suggest the kind designed to fail in the open position.

Since the radiator is out, inspect the upper plastic tank for crack and signs of very small leaks. Cracking is common issue as the radiator ages. If no leaks

If the trans has more then 60K on the original fluid, change it all, not just what is in the pan. A Google search should produce hits on do it yourself complete fluid changes. Dirty, worn out trans fluid is the No 1 cause of trans failure. The trans is strong enough but failure do to never changing the fluid is common. Shows up as no fwd or reverse, shift issues, etc.

Check trans input shaft seal for leaking.

Trans flex plate for cracking, not common but never know.

Power steering drive shaft seal for leaking. Check fluid condition, if dirty use a oil change syringe to pull out the fluid in the reservoir and replace it. Do this a number of times between engine starts and the fluid will become clean again.

Might also check for power steering fluid leakage from under the PS rack housing boots. A common enough problem.

Check front hydraulic engine mount for leaking.

Check AC compressor magnetic clutch bearing for roughness.

A lot of items but most are easy enough to check and much easier to fix now then when the engine and trans are installed.

 

All good ideas. The radiator is new as well as the battery and hoses (previous owner) so that won't be an issue. Both half shafts have bad outer boots and I'll take care of that with new outer cv's. Didn't think about the freeze plugs in the rear of the block but it's cheap future insurance. Already planned on tranny front seal and changing the trans and diff fluid. Book says Dextron 11 (111) so I assume Dextron 111 will be fine. Waiting for the engine now.

 

good idea

 

Dexron III has been discontinued as GM stopped licensing it.

Use something call ATF fluid that vendors like Mobil produce. Same stuff, bottle states it is a replacement for Dexron III.

 

Can someone tell me what year toyota quit using steel timing chains and went to belts on the four cylinder engines? My mechanic told me not to worry about a timing belt because my 2002 four cylinder has a steel chain and would never be a problem.

My little car has been wonderfully trouble free since I bought it used with 12,000 miles on it. It now has over 140,000 on it and all I have done is change the oil, filters, assesory belt, tires and brake pads. I drive almost 400 miles a week on the hiway and still get between 410 and 460 miles per tank

I have noticed a change in the sound of the motor this past year but nothing major. Just does not sound as tight as it did. And it idles a little less smoothly when I turn on the airconditioning which it never used to do

What kind of preventitive measures should I be taking to insure a long engine life. .

 

For the 4 cylinder, this happened when Toyota changed to the 2AZ-FE engine-2002 for US cars.

This engine can rattle a little.

Regular oil changes of course. There is not much to change on the engine.

Make sure the coolant is changed, say every 5 years.

Unless using synthetic trans fluid suggest changing it at least every 60K miles. Very important to long trans life.

If the car has ABS, changing the brake fluid at least once in the cars lifetime will help minimize brake system problems.

Same for the PS fluid.