This would be my next inexpensive attempt at solving the problem. I would also recommend you do another coolant flush since you have to drain most of the system anyway.

Did you flush out the system to get rid of residual stop leak when you replaced the rad?

 

Yes - the stop leak should have been flushed. I did change the T-stat today but it did not help. If I leave the fans on and drive with the hood safety latched (not closed) it doesnt overheat. But today I did hear a high pitched squeal
when I initially started driving. I'm assuming that may be my bearings in the water pump.
I have never done a water pump and it seems it would be too tough of a job for me.
There are no leaks anywhere but I cant think of what else it could be. I'm asuming the pump is bad so it is not circulating the hot engine coolant back to the radiator to be cooled. I would assume I should have the timing belt replaced as well since that is attached to thewater pump. Toyota was actually the 2nd cheapest at $534, Firestone quoted me $500. Is this a hard job for a novice?
Thanks for all the advice and help.

 

What did the quotes involve? If you're going to do TB and WP then you should also include crank seal, cam seals, oil pump seal & o-ring, maybe even new belt tensioner and spring. Compare the quote details of the parts involved. For $34 I would go with Toyo.

Depends. Do you have tools? How long can the car be down? Hardest part will probably be getting the crank pulley off, and on to proper torque. Haynes manual is pretty good at explaining this procedure but for $500 that sounds fairly reasonable and you'll have it fixed right.

 

So - I brought the car to Toyota. They said it wasnt the water pump.
They said my radiator cap had a bad seal and needed to be replaced because it wasnt holding pressure.
Then they flushed it. Why? I dont know I told them I had flushed it.
Then they changed my brand new T-stat that I just put in. Why? I dont know, I told them I had just put a new one in (not an OEM but who cares it cant be that far off from Toyota spec) - they said it wasnt opening at the correct temp.
So $177 later my car still overheats - NICE.
They noted on my invoice that there is a flow problem and the radiator should be replaced. I did not tell them it was replaced in 2004 since I picked up the car after service was closed.
They also said the temp sender for the gauge on dash needs to be replaced. I dont
see why when it indicates overheating I can hear the coolant boiling away. Seems to be working as far as I can see and an ohmmeter check indicated it was good when I tested it.
Back to the shop tomorrow I guess. I'll keep everyone up to date.
Thanks
Kev

 

The boiling you heard after shut down could have been a rad cap not holding pressure. The coolant would have blown back to the overflow tank.

They may have flushed it with a cleaning solution since they were going to drain for t-stat anyway. I'm not saying it was necessary.

This sounds bogus. I have never used a factory t-stat (Stant) and never had problems. I don't know how accurate they could tell when the stat opened as they would have had to watch for flow with a thermometer in the coolant. But they would have been able to observe flow out of the engine which may confirmthe WP is working ok. Unless the WP bearing slows the WP speed after getting hot and running for a while. That would be hard to tell except forthe noise of a slippingTB.

I would have thought they could have figured this out before doing all the other work. I don't know how they could tell if the flow problem was the WP or rad?? Blocked flow would show up in the entire system. You need to get them to explain this. I would talk to the service manager. Get him to explain more. Ask him what you're asking us and yourself.

I'm still not sure about the rad and that the residual stop leak mightstill be theproblem or that the rad is just a cheap unit. If there is reduced flow in the rad that may explain why the fans are not turning on. The longer the coolant stays in the rad, with air flow, the cooler it gets.Find out how much to replace the rad and ask the service manager if that doesn't fix the over heat and it does turnout to be the WP will theycredit you for this work done. Your otherlower cost option is to replace the rad yourself and seeif that works. If not then the only thing left is the WP. I would then think about small claims for this work done if the dealer does not refund at least part of your money. These Toyo techs are supposed to be better than corner store mechanics and they should know what they are doing. Keep all of your receipts and get everything in writing.

I'd hold off on this right now. They may have hooked up a test gauge and compared the reading to the factory gauge, but I don't think you need pin point accuracy anyway. You can also replace thisyourself and save the labor.

Good luck.

 

Have you checked to make sure the fans are working? If not, the engine will overheat in stop and go traffic.

 

I think we determined that the fans and fan switch were ok??? Dealer did not indicate fan was problem.

 

So I brought the car back today at noon. I told them all of this we have discussed and they agreed to change the water pump since the radiator is only 3 years old.
He did give me a good deal $397 vs. the $534 originally quoted to make up for the $177
already spent and that includes a new TB.
However they did just call back and said they were able to look and feel into the throat
of the WP upon disassembly and felt all impeller fins were good and tight to the shaft.
They asked if they could go on their original diagnosis of changing the radiator out.
I told them to go ahead - he said he wouldnt charge me for the disassembly of the WP and it would still be cheaper than doing the water pump.
I did ask to make sure they did a gas test on the coolant and no CO was found.
So they are sure it is not a head gasket.
I'll let you know what happens if its finished tonight.
Thanks again for all the great comments and advice.

 

So I picked up my Camry last night after Toyota replaced the radiator and the car seems
to be running fine now. I will drive it a good distance today to make sure its all set. It didnt overheat last night and it should have based on time & distance.
It cost me another $350 but I think they did try their best. Just wished they would have
test drove better to determine the radiator was blocked the first time and not the cap causing the problem.
So either some stop leak that was left over finally let go after 3 1/2 years or my "new" radiator was a piece of junk to begin with. I always thought with these new aluminum radiators it was tough to plug them up. In the end it appears I should have never used
the stop leak - at this point I dont see its useful purpose if youre going to keep an old car running.
Thanks for listening and helping out - hopefully this will help someone along the way to 242,000 miles!

 

From your description of how the service mgr. attempted to resolve charges already paid and inspected the WP rather than replace, I think they tried their best to make you happy. And their diagnosis was correct. Bottom line is dealerships cost more because their overhead and factory partsare higher and they usually pay more and provide benefits. Good side is yougot a good rad and probably top notch work.

Stop leak is ONLYfor getting you home in an emergency when there is no choice,it's not for long term replacement of required maintenence.