My 88 Camry, with 220,000 miles, idles very rough once put into drive. Neutral is OK, and the car runs great otherwise when not idling.

Any help?

Green

 

your not give us much info to work with, compression? vacuum leak? ect. if you want to just throw parts into it. i would start with a tune up.

 

Maybe you have a bad engine support










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Sorry for the lack of details. This is my new girlfriend's car, so I'm just starting to look into this car. She's owned the car for one year.

Car has had a rebuilt engine installed 7 months ago, with NO CHANGE to idling problem. During the installation of the rebuilt engine, the new parts installed were

- spark plugs
- spark plug wires
- timing belt
- oil & filter

Here's what I found last night:
- Idle control valve resistance measurements = 18.3 and 18.0 ohms. Spec = 16.0 to 17.0 ohms for each measurement.
- Throttle position sensor resistance test failed
- Bad vacuum test on middle of three ports on throttle valve
- Replaced air filter
- Fuel filter bolt is seized
- Sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body

No change. Still bad idle.

Need to
- check air flow valve at air cleaner
- replace idle control valve
- replace throttle position sensor
- talk to garage that did "rebuilt engine install"
- check EGR system
- check lack of vacuum in middle port

Comments??

Green

 

Did theoriginal engine have an idle problem prior to getting rebuilt replacement? Was theoriginal engine rebuilt or was it replaced with rebuild?



Can't say if out of spec IAC is enough to contribute to problem. I don't have specs for 1988. Sounds like TPS needs to be replaced but I would concentrate on IAC first since you don't have any other drivability problems. This is a 20 year old car after all.

Quote:

- Bad vacuum test on middle of three ports on throttle valve

Soundslike port is blocked.Solvent and compressed air may unblock it.

Quote:

- Fuel filter bolt is seized

Which one, lower or upper. If lower (flare nut) then are you sure you're turning it in the right direction as it's upside down. If upper you'll need a backup wrench and 1/2 drive socket. I doubt it's the fuel filter giving idle problem.

Quote:

- Sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body

If you were trying to clean IAC then you needed to spray into the square hole in the IAC, not just into the throttle body. It also helps to cycle the IAC on and off.

You still haven't told us which engine.

 

Thank you Pedro for your time and thorough reply

Pedro: Did theoriginal engine have an idle problem prior to getting rebuilt replacement? Was theoriginal engine rebuilt or was it replaced with rebuild?

Green: I don't have that detailed info. Sorry, I don't know.
The info I have is that this car received a rebuilt engine roughly 7 months ago. and the idle problem did not change.

Pedro: If you were trying to clean IAC then you needed to spray into the square hole in the IAC, not just into the throttle body. It also helps to cycle the IAC on and off.

Green: Which "square hole" are you refering to? Can the IAC be cleaned while still mounted on the car? How do you cycle the IAC on and off? My IAC has a 3 prong electrical connector, and is mounted to the underside of the throttle body, connected to hoses containing coolant.

Pedro: You still haven't told us which engine

Green: 2.0 liter, 4 cylinder EFI, traverse mounted. I don't know the different engine models. Is that description sufficient?

Thanks again for your help.


Green

 

I'm going by my car, and most others, at theintake of the throttle body air cleaner side of throttle valve there should be the up stream entrance to the IAC. It's usually a square hole but that may be different on an 88. That's where you want to spray the cleaner.

Usually.

By unplugging and plugging in the IAC. You should clean it while the engine is running.

 

Thank you. I will give that a try

Green

 

I've got this same problem with my '91 v6 and wondered if a solution was found. I have cleaned the throttle body including the idle air valve - but it still cuts off in drive with brake on unless I increase the idle screw to too high for normal.

Without upping the idle, it runs great once you get rolling along, but have to pump the pedel to keep if from cutting off in drive. There is not a CEL, but the code that comes up is 51, which points to the throttle position sensor. I tried checking its ohms, but didn't get any conclusion - but not sure if it did it right. Also, I tried jumping the idle air valve to see it move and it didn't budge any. So, do I have a position sensor problem, or a idle air valve problem, or something completely different?

 

I am fairly convinced that this is a transmission problem.

I get no fault codes.

After replacing the idle control valve and throttle position sensor, and cleaning the throttle body without removing it from the car, the shaking is 50% better, but still exists. It is twice as bad in reverse.

I will get a free diagnostic test at Aamco transmissions. The tech over the phone was familiar with this problem.

Green