Bad accelerstion,rough driving,vibrating MORE
#1
05-12-2016, 07:37 AM
Bad accelerstion,rough driving,vibrating MORE
Hey this is my first day in the forum,I have a 94 Camry LE 2.2 engine. It has 153,000 miles. I've recently done the brake pads,dog bone motor mount,coolant hose from radiator to engine and the Temp sensor(grey one). With all this done the past few weeks I've noticed more problems,they've worsened or they just happened.
The car vibrates heavily when in idle at a stop light,I've played with the motor mounts tightness,don't know what else it could be maybe one of the other ones?
The temp sensor was broken off so my temp gauge wasn't showing the temp,so I figured this could be why the engine was running a little rough and vibrating/having accelerating problems. I got the new one in,the car still is slow accelerating,very rough almost kicking when rpm go down AND the temp gauge raises almost up the the Red hot area,engine doesn't seem overheated?
I've cleaned the throttle body,I don't see any vacuum leaks I'm going to check. I will check mass airflow sensor. I had the fuel pump checked about a year or so ago,I will look at that too. Could the rough driving/bad acceleration be fuel pressure? Fuel filter?Air inlet tube? Could it be anything else? Sorry if this has been on the forum,it's my first day I apologize just have run out of ideas myself. Thanks so much.
The car vibrates heavily when in idle at a stop light,I've played with the motor mounts tightness,don't know what else it could be maybe one of the other ones?
The temp sensor was broken off so my temp gauge wasn't showing the temp,so I figured this could be why the engine was running a little rough and vibrating/having accelerating problems. I got the new one in,the car still is slow accelerating,very rough almost kicking when rpm go down AND the temp gauge raises almost up the the Red hot area,engine doesn't seem overheated?
I've cleaned the throttle body,I don't see any vacuum leaks I'm going to check. I will check mass airflow sensor. I had the fuel pump checked about a year or so ago,I will look at that too. Could the rough driving/bad acceleration be fuel pressure? Fuel filter?Air inlet tube? Could it be anything else? Sorry if this has been on the forum,it's my first day I apologize just have run out of ideas myself. Thanks so much.
#2
05-12-2016, 10:48 AM
Update
K so I realized I don't have a MAS cuz of my engine being 2.2. So not that. Cleaned the throttle bottle,not that. Now I meant to mention my AC button is blinking,I'm going to check my filter and AC relays and hopefully it isn't a compressor. Could AC filter or relay being bad result in rough driving? Rpms shoot up to 4 and drop rough when accelerating or I have to drip rpms by taking foot off gas. Could that be from AC filter/relay or something else? I def think it's airflow problem somehow thanks.
#3
05-12-2016, 01:54 PM
Did the engine ever run OK as in before the work was done?
The engine computer uses its own coolant sensor (has two wires), not the one for the temp gauge (one wire).
What is the engine idle speed, the engine will shake if too low?
Don't let the temp go into the red or a head gasket may blow.
Do the radiator coolant fans work when the AC is turned on or after prolonged idle?
Did you get all the air out of the radiator when refilling. If you have already driving the car, when engine cold check coolant level in radiator and in overflow tank.
The AC light blinking is another matter which should not cause engine problems. As you stating the engine idle or RPM shoots up when the AC turns on. If the AC switch is off, the AC is off and it should not effect engine RPM.
Did you fail to reconnect any sensors, wires, etc when putting things back together?
The engine computer uses its own coolant sensor (has two wires), not the one for the temp gauge (one wire).
What is the engine idle speed, the engine will shake if too low?
Don't let the temp go into the red or a head gasket may blow.
Do the radiator coolant fans work when the AC is turned on or after prolonged idle?
Did you get all the air out of the radiator when refilling. If you have already driving the car, when engine cold check coolant level in radiator and in overflow tank.
The AC light blinking is another matter which should not cause engine problems. As you stating the engine idle or RPM shoots up when the AC turns on. If the AC switch is off, the AC is off and it should not effect engine RPM.
Did you fail to reconnect any sensors, wires, etc when putting things back together?
#4
05-12-2016, 02:12 PM
The engine has always had a stalling problem nobody can figure out. When traveling high speeds for a while then slowing down and coming to a stop it would stall,shut off. Then start right back up. That hasn't happened in a long time. The engine seemed to start acting up when the sensor was knocked off. So I thought replacing it would solve the roughness etc. My fans run fine and all the wires are connected. The rpms,I should have explained better,when I accelerate it goes up and up and won't come down without me letting off gas or it will come down very rough. Very poor acceleration.There seems to be knocking when driving fast. There's just something wrong with the flow from pedal to engine,maybe fuel problems or air. I'm going to measure fuel pressure tomorrow.
There are times after driving and the car has cooled that the overflow tank is lower than before but the fluid in the radiator is fine,not sure why?. Thanks for the help ask any and all questions you have and if I'm not clarifying enough let me know. I'm not an expert but not an amateur with cars,this has me puzzled
There are times after driving and the car has cooled that the overflow tank is lower than before but the fluid in the radiator is fine,not sure why?. Thanks for the help ask any and all questions you have and if I'm not clarifying enough let me know. I'm not an expert but not an amateur with cars,this has me puzzled
#5
05-12-2016, 02:47 PM
The IAC valve under the throttle body controls engine idle hot or cold. There is no idle screw but a throttle plate adjustment screw set at the factory (don't adjust this). The throttle plate is manually controlled by cables.
Might survey the coolant lines, radiator, radiator cap, etc for coolant leakage. The upper radiator tank is plastic and with age start to have small cracks which can weep coolant.
Did you replace the damaged sensor with the correct part?
Check out the ign system as poor spark due to bad plugs, cap, rotor, etc can cause acceleration issues.
If the RPM's are not dropping then. Under the hood find the throttle cables (there are two) to a large black box near the radiator, this is the cruise control. Remove the box cover.
Have someone move the throttle pedal while you watch the action at the throttle body pulley and inside the box. A throttle cable from the pedal goes to black box then another cable goes to the throttle pulley. It could be a sticky cable or problem in with the mechanism inside the box. Also manually rotate the throttle pulley and check for binding.
If an automatic trans there may be a kick down cable from the trans to the pulley. Make sure the cable is not being holding up the return action of the throttle.
Might survey the coolant lines, radiator, radiator cap, etc for coolant leakage. The upper radiator tank is plastic and with age start to have small cracks which can weep coolant.
Did you replace the damaged sensor with the correct part?
Check out the ign system as poor spark due to bad plugs, cap, rotor, etc can cause acceleration issues.
If the RPM's are not dropping then. Under the hood find the throttle cables (there are two) to a large black box near the radiator, this is the cruise control. Remove the box cover.
Have someone move the throttle pedal while you watch the action at the throttle body pulley and inside the box. A throttle cable from the pedal goes to black box then another cable goes to the throttle pulley. It could be a sticky cable or problem in with the mechanism inside the box. Also manually rotate the throttle pulley and check for binding.
If an automatic trans there may be a kick down cable from the trans to the pulley. Make sure the cable is not being holding up the return action of the throttle.
#6
05-13-2016, 09:55 AM
Ok thanks that's very informative. I'm going to check everything coolant related now. I'll have to do the wire watching later after work.
Now is it possible the engine isn't getting hotter the sensor is reading wrong or not adjusted or something? I'm going to triple check it's the right part. The store did have trouble finding it but it fits into the engine area well and the wire connecting fits. Thanks again I'll update
Now is it possible the engine isn't getting hotter the sensor is reading wrong or not adjusted or something? I'm going to triple check it's the right part. The store did have trouble finding it but it fits into the engine area well and the wire connecting fits. Thanks again I'll update
#8
05-13-2016, 11:12 AM
There is no cabin air filter.
The blinking AC switch is indicating a fault in the AC system. This could be the AC amplifier (controls AC operation and is location under the dash), compressor speed sensor (monitors compressor RPM-located on compressor), magnetic clutch electric relay (turns compressor on and off-located in engine compartment relay box), loose compressor drive belt (belt is slipping too much) this belt also drives the alternator, low Freon in system.
With AC off or green light flashing or steady, the AC system should be out of the loop for engine operation. With AC on and light off (system working), the IAC valve will adjust idle speed to compensate for the load of the compressor as it cycles on and off. Thus if the AC is on and working, the idle will vary slightly. The flashing light indicates the system has turned off.
Did you replace the gauge sender having only one wire (yellow/green)? This sender works with the gauge only and has no connection to engine operation.
The coolant temp sensor for the computer for engine operation has two wires, brown and light green. The two sensors should be close to each other on the plumbing.
Suggest checking coolant temp with a thermometer. With engine cold remove radiator cap and place thermometer into coolant. Let engine warm up checking temperature. The operating temp is something like 205-209F. The fans should come on at 199F but this temp is at the bottom of the radiator (location of fan temp switch) which has a lower temp coolant.
Normal temp gauge position with engine warm has the needle slightly below the mid point mark and staying there.
Also check for vacuum hose leaks. Leaks and cracks in the large air intake hose going to the throttle body. Check for cracking and separated hosed where the hose attaches to the throttle body at the hose clamp.
A sticking open EGR valve can cause rough idle or engine dying issues.
The blinking AC switch is indicating a fault in the AC system. This could be the AC amplifier (controls AC operation and is location under the dash), compressor speed sensor (monitors compressor RPM-located on compressor), magnetic clutch electric relay (turns compressor on and off-located in engine compartment relay box), loose compressor drive belt (belt is slipping too much) this belt also drives the alternator, low Freon in system.
With AC off or green light flashing or steady, the AC system should be out of the loop for engine operation. With AC on and light off (system working), the IAC valve will adjust idle speed to compensate for the load of the compressor as it cycles on and off. Thus if the AC is on and working, the idle will vary slightly. The flashing light indicates the system has turned off.
Did you replace the gauge sender having only one wire (yellow/green)? This sender works with the gauge only and has no connection to engine operation.
The coolant temp sensor for the computer for engine operation has two wires, brown and light green. The two sensors should be close to each other on the plumbing.
Suggest checking coolant temp with a thermometer. With engine cold remove radiator cap and place thermometer into coolant. Let engine warm up checking temperature. The operating temp is something like 205-209F. The fans should come on at 199F but this temp is at the bottom of the radiator (location of fan temp switch) which has a lower temp coolant.
Normal temp gauge position with engine warm has the needle slightly below the mid point mark and staying there.
Also check for vacuum hose leaks. Leaks and cracks in the large air intake hose going to the throttle body. Check for cracking and separated hosed where the hose attaches to the throttle body at the hose clamp.
A sticking open EGR valve can cause rough idle or engine dying issues.
#9
05-13-2016, 01:06 PM
I replaced the one with one wire,they are next to one another to the right of the engine.
So the overflow coolant res has a crack but it's at the very top of the res where it connects to the car so don't think much coolant can leave through there? The temp gauge starts out raising normally and rests at the halfway mark for about ten min. Then it goes up to about 3/4 after ten mins of driving,it hovers there most of the ride. Also the fuel gauge fluctuates. It seems to drop more than it should then moves up again and so on. Not significantly but not normally. Also the car gives off a strong smell of emissions or w/e you want to call it after accelerating sometimes.
This is just an update for how today went. I'm letting the car cool now and then will take temp and try to do some of the other things you suggested. Thanks again i
So the overflow coolant res has a crack but it's at the very top of the res where it connects to the car so don't think much coolant can leave through there? The temp gauge starts out raising normally and rests at the halfway mark for about ten min. Then it goes up to about 3/4 after ten mins of driving,it hovers there most of the ride. Also the fuel gauge fluctuates. It seems to drop more than it should then moves up again and so on. Not significantly but not normally. Also the car gives off a strong smell of emissions or w/e you want to call it after accelerating sometimes.
This is just an update for how today went. I'm letting the car cool now and then will take temp and try to do some of the other things you suggested. Thanks again i
#10
05-13-2016, 01:38 PM
Check out actual coolant temps at the radiator.
The 12v power source for the fuel tank and engine temp gauges are the same. But this also powers the tach and speedo which assume are working OK.
The fuel tank and gauge share a common ground together alone. Suppose a bad ground is possible. It's the brown wire which can be more easily found by removing the lower rear seat cushion, removing an oval cover to find the fuel tank wiring.
If you still have the old temp sensor and have an ohm meter. Compare resistance between the old and new sensors at room temp and then in heated water. The resistance will change as the water temp changes.
The 12v power source for the fuel tank and engine temp gauges are the same. But this also powers the tach and speedo which assume are working OK.
The fuel tank and gauge share a common ground together alone. Suppose a bad ground is possible. It's the brown wire which can be more easily found by removing the lower rear seat cushion, removing an oval cover to find the fuel tank wiring.
If you still have the old temp sensor and have an ohm meter. Compare resistance between the old and new sensors at room temp and then in heated water. The resistance will change as the water temp changes.
