Almost died today -- a sudden wind came up and my car can't do wind
#1
06-04-2008, 12:08 AM
Almost died today -- a sudden wind came up and my car can't do wind
My 1994 Camry is more comfortable, cleaner, newer-looking, etc. than every used car I've test driven, including many used Toyotas. But it has some serious problems and the repair estimate is $4000, which I just don't have. One problem is that if a gust of wind comes up, I risk my life. I can't control the car any more in a strong wind and end up in the lane next to me (so far haven't had other cars there but one day I just might) or getting way too close to cliffs and that sort of thing. I was told the suspe$ the suspension ("struts" and "springs") was about $1500. If I had this kind of money I just might have a newer Camry; DOH.
I am disabled with systemic lupus and have no hope of becoming a car mechanic. I live in a room in a condo complex anyway so I can't even wash my car on the premises, let alone try to take it apart. I've been following the maintenance schedule at the dealer since I got the car in Dec 1993 but this particular repair estimate is just too much. I have to pay for chemo. And gasoline. I can do without food since I gain weight watching other people eat but that just doesn't bring in enough $$$$ for struts and springs.
I was told to go look for parts in a junkyard. Like I would know how to do that!
Do I just keep risking my life (I HAVE to drive thru windy areas to access my medical care in points south)? Is this problem really caused by the suspension being dead or is it something else? I have a small oil leak and I've had trouble just learning to check my oil! (it doesn't help that my hood struts are dead).
I think I need help.... in the meantime I just pray for no wind.
I am disabled with systemic lupus and have no hope of becoming a car mechanic. I live in a room in a condo complex anyway so I can't even wash my car on the premises, let alone try to take it apart. I've been following the maintenance schedule at the dealer since I got the car in Dec 1993 but this particular repair estimate is just too much. I have to pay for chemo. And gasoline. I can do without food since I gain weight watching other people eat but that just doesn't bring in enough $$$$ for struts and springs.
I was told to go look for parts in a junkyard. Like I would know how to do that!
Do I just keep risking my life (I HAVE to drive thru windy areas to access my medical care in points south)? Is this problem really caused by the suspension being dead or is it something else? I have a small oil leak and I've had trouble just learning to check my oil! (it doesn't help that my hood struts are dead).
I think I need help.... in the meantime I just pray for no wind.
#2
06-04-2008, 09:42 AM
RE: Almost died today -- a sudden wind came up and my car can't do wind
Greetings:
The Camry is a pretty stable car unless something is wrong or very overloaded.
How many miles on this car, what engine V6 or 4 cylinder, what kind of cross winds MPH wise?
Who provided the repair estimates, Toyota dealer, major repair chain, and small shop?
A few suggestions:
Check for weak springs, the distance between the ground and outer fender just above the wheel should be around 27 inch front and 26 inch for the back.
Have some one push up and down on the front of the car to get the suspension rocking then release. Car should stop rocking in 2 cycles. Do the same for the rear. If under cycles +/- the car struts are OK. If the car keeps rocking and rocking, this is a problem.
Do this on a car with struts and springs known to be good (a new car) to get and idea of what is normal. All suspensions act about the same way.
If you can inspect the struts for leaking oil where the strut rod comes out of the body. A little oil wetting causing dirt to collect is OK, but dripping fluid is not.
How are your tires, tread and tire inflation OK. Under inflated tires can cause issues.
Check the suspension:
Jack up each tire, grab (or have someone do this) the tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. Push in one side while pulling out the other in a rapid manor, there should not be any play. On the front tires the steering wheel can move so take this into account.
Owners have had worn out tie rod ends (there is one at each end of the steering rod), bad ball joints on the lower suspension arm, and occasionally a really worn wheel bearing. The rack and pinion can also have too much play from wear. The upper strut mounts can wear but typically this does not cause the car to have steering issues.
In the back, the strut rod or suspension arm bushing can wear out causing the wheel to move in and out. Plus a bad wheel bearing (but would need to be very bad).
Typically if something is worn enough to cause the car to move all over the road it is obvious when inspecting the suspension.
Bad struts can cause a stability problem but they last a lot longer then most people think. The simple tests above should check them for function.
Most of the time severe stability issues are caused by worn suspension parts or possible a very bad wheel bearing. My guess is a worn suspension part.
As to the oil leaks, leaks on either the V6 or 4 cylinders are extremely common as they age. How much oil is leaking out? Place some cardboard under the engine to determine the approx area of leak.
Passengers side), driver’s side, etc. If you can, look at the enigne with a flashlight around the areas where the valve cover(s) bolts to the head, distributor, and lower timing belt cover. Determine if the fluid is engine oil or transmission fluid, they smell much different.
Then post back with what you have found.
The Camry is a pretty stable car unless something is wrong or very overloaded.
How many miles on this car, what engine V6 or 4 cylinder, what kind of cross winds MPH wise?
Who provided the repair estimates, Toyota dealer, major repair chain, and small shop?
A few suggestions:
Check for weak springs, the distance between the ground and outer fender just above the wheel should be around 27 inch front and 26 inch for the back.
Have some one push up and down on the front of the car to get the suspension rocking then release. Car should stop rocking in 2 cycles. Do the same for the rear. If under cycles +/- the car struts are OK. If the car keeps rocking and rocking, this is a problem.
Do this on a car with struts and springs known to be good (a new car) to get and idea of what is normal. All suspensions act about the same way.
If you can inspect the struts for leaking oil where the strut rod comes out of the body. A little oil wetting causing dirt to collect is OK, but dripping fluid is not.
How are your tires, tread and tire inflation OK. Under inflated tires can cause issues.
Check the suspension:
Jack up each tire, grab (or have someone do this) the tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. Push in one side while pulling out the other in a rapid manor, there should not be any play. On the front tires the steering wheel can move so take this into account.
Owners have had worn out tie rod ends (there is one at each end of the steering rod), bad ball joints on the lower suspension arm, and occasionally a really worn wheel bearing. The rack and pinion can also have too much play from wear. The upper strut mounts can wear but typically this does not cause the car to have steering issues.
In the back, the strut rod or suspension arm bushing can wear out causing the wheel to move in and out. Plus a bad wheel bearing (but would need to be very bad).
Typically if something is worn enough to cause the car to move all over the road it is obvious when inspecting the suspension.
Bad struts can cause a stability problem but they last a lot longer then most people think. The simple tests above should check them for function.
Most of the time severe stability issues are caused by worn suspension parts or possible a very bad wheel bearing. My guess is a worn suspension part.
As to the oil leaks, leaks on either the V6 or 4 cylinders are extremely common as they age. How much oil is leaking out? Place some cardboard under the engine to determine the approx area of leak.
Passengers side), driver’s side, etc. If you can, look at the enigne with a flashlight around the areas where the valve cover(s) bolts to the head, distributor, and lower timing belt cover. Determine if the fluid is engine oil or transmission fluid, they smell much different.
Then post back with what you have found.
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