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Nose-Dives on Moderate Braking and Rotors Warping

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Camry >> Your Ride >> Suspension, Brakes, Tires & Wheels >> Nose-Dives on Moderate Braking and Rotors Warping Page: [1]
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Nose-Dives on Moderate Braking and Rotors Warping - 3/4/2008 8:38:36 PM   
AllToyota

 

Posts: 3
Joined: 3/4/2008
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My 2000 (w/ 115k) had warped front rotors which I replaced right after I bought it in Summer/Fall '07. Braking smoothed out, but I've noticed a lot of nose-dive when braking moderately from 45-50 mph. I recently tweaked the rear drum adjusters and got the hand-brake travel down to something normal, however, I've already started to pick up some shudder from the front rotors again - and the nose-dive is as severe as ever. It's possible that I waited too long to adjust the drums, but that doesn't explain the persistent nose-diving. A friend suspects the metering valve may be out of whack, but I can't find any references anywhere to 2000 Camrys having a combination, or even straight metering valve. While checking forum posts I've started to consider the front struts and springs. Has anyone had these experiences or similar and know what'll fix the nose-dives and apparent overheating in the rotors???

< Message edited by AllToyota -- 3/4/2008 8:40:18 PM >
Post #: 1
RE: Nose-Dives on Moderate Braking and Rotors Warping - 3/5/2008 8:31:17 AM   
toyomoho

 

Posts: 1332
Joined: 1/24/2008
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Does this car have ABS or some other traction system?

There should be a metering valve that lowers the pressure to rear brakes at higher line PSI's by about 1/2 of the front.  It is possible to check the operation but would need to install pressure gages off the brake bleed ports. 

For normal braking the car should not nose dive, how are the front shocks?

Suggest inspecting the front calipers for a sticky or frozen brake piston that fails to fully retract and could cause dragging and rotor over heating.  Check the caliper slide pins to make sure they are free and allow the caliper (and pads) to float (move in and out).  Don't drive through puddies of water with hot brakes or the rotors can warp.  Off chance a hub could be bent leading to the warped rotor.

If using a ceramic pads suggest going to Toyota OEM pads or a semi-metalic, use Brembo plain rotors.  Use a torque wrench when tightening the lug bolts.









< Message edited by toyomoho -- 3/5/2008 8:32:27 AM >

(in reply to AllToyota)
Post #: 2
RE: Nose-Dives on Moderate Braking and Rotors Warping - 3/7/2008 7:04:43 PM   
AllToyota

 

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Joined: 3/4/2008
Status: offline
Ok, toyo. I'll check the pistons, etc., but I did replace the rotors right after I got the car less than 8 mos ago and I was careful to lube up the places where the pads make contact with the calipers, and the caliper bolts, themselves. I'm not sure about the slide pins you mentioned.  Responses on another forum said it was almost certainly the struts. As for ABS, I'm pretty certain this Camry doesn't have it. The user's man mentions it, but those manuals are written to apply to all trim-lines. I haven't shelled out the bucks, yet, for the full service man, so I can't say from that. My Sienna man was about $125. The Sienna has ABS and I've engaged it a number of times, so I know the feel. I haven't been able to feel anything similar with the Camry, even on ice - so I'm pretty certain no ABS. Wish I knew someone with the gauges and the know-how for checking the pressures. Other thing is - without the svc man, I've not been able to i.d. where the metering or combo valve would be located.
'nuff said. Have to hit the books. Thanks, again!

(in reply to toyomoho)
Post #: 3
RE: Nose-Dives on Moderate Braking and Rotors Warping - 3/7/2008 11:19:49 PM   
toyomoho

 

Posts: 1332
Joined: 1/24/2008
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If ABS, an icon on the dash would light up along with all the others.

Haynes has pretty decent shop manuals at a reasonable cost.



(in reply to AllToyota)
Post #: 4
RE: Nose-Dives on Moderate Braking and Rotors Warping - 3/8/2008 11:23:14 AM   
AllToyota

 

Posts: 3
Joined: 3/4/2008
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Good point. I always forget about the idiot lights. Regarding Haynes: yeah, I've used them. They're good for a lot of issues, but don't give me the depth I sometimes need. For instance, the inspector just said our Sienna needs the driver's inner tie-rod replaced as it's loose and shouldn't have any slack at all. Turns out there's a special tool required to d/c the t-r from the p/s assembly. The Haynes wouldn't show me that tool. The Toyo. manual does. Thanks, tho'. I used Haynes for my '88 Nova for the entire time I owned it.

(in reply to toyomoho)
Post #: 5
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