Hello,

I installed a new radio in my 93 Camry, instrument panel lights went dead, bulbs are fine, fuse is fine. Fuse for rear lights blew, but I replaced it and they work. Any hints on how to fix my dash lighting?

 

Glove box light work?

Have you checked the light rheostat?

 

Thanks for the reply Joey P. I have been trying to figure out where it is and how to test it. The Haynes manual isn't too detailed on this. Can you point me in the right direction? My instrument panel and radio are removed right now. The new radio works fine. I don't think I ever had a glove box light that worked. Lightbulb isn't coming on.

I found this link: Will I have to do something like this to access the rheostat?


Michael

 

Power to the dash and glove box lights comes through the taillight relay. Then through the 15A TAIL fuse.

Do the taillights work?

Power to the dash splits between console lights and glove box light. However the console lights are on a light dimmer rheostat.

If the glove box light has power but not the console lights check the rheostat. Rheostat is on the left side of dash. The face plate comes out. See link below and search for rheostat with face plate attached.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dim...-cheap.628006/

Find the glove box light socket. With dash lights on (taillights on). Check for 12v at socket electrical terminals. One goes to 12v power, the other to the on/off switch which then goes to ground.

At bulb socket, the 12v power wire is Green/white. Switch is white/black.

If power at glove box light, the issue could be the rheostat.

 

Thank you for the help. The taillight fuse was blown, but I replaced it and they work now.

Glove box light works.

Dash lights work now. All I really did was unplug and re-plug the dimmer/rheostat and now they work.

Problem is now my signals don't work. The hazards do. Fuse is fine. Any ideas?

Finally, my RPM gauge has recently been reading very low, don't know if it is just the gauge? I don't think it is a related problem. I am guessing I would have to replace the entire instrument cluster to fix that? Speedometer is fine so I am no really worried about it.

Thanks again for your help. It is greatly appreciated. Have a great New Year!

MTW

 

The turn and hazard systems are integrated with each other. The hazards due bypass the turn signal switch. Check turn signal switch for problems.

There is also a 7.5A TURN fuse.

The tacho picks up the RPM signal from the igniter (black wire). Otherwise the circuitry is internal to the combo meter. Does the speedo and fuel gauge work OK?

These gauges have capacitors that can fail. Search internet of this issue.

 

Mr. P.,

Fuse is fine. Changed the blinker/flasher relay under the glove compartment to no avail (Haynes suggested this even though hazards work). I am waiting for the blinker switch to arrive later today. That is my last-best hope. Is there a way I can test the old one?

The speedo and fuel gauge were working before I open this can o worms. Not worried about the tach for now. This all started trying to replace the radio because the AM didn't work and fix the lighter/power outlet. Then moved to rear lights, dashboard cluster lights, and now to blinkers. In your opinion, could there be any greater electrical problem I might be missing, or is it just age and bad luck. It is 25 years old but, only 150K and it is a very clean car.

Thanks again.

MTW

 

The turn signal bulbs have one bulb filament grounded to chassis via the socket.

The hazard switch directs 12v power via the flasher to the positive socket terminal of ALL turn signal bulbs. The result is when the hazard switch is pushed, all turn bulbs flash.

The blinker switch directs 12v power to the left or right turn signal bulbs. It is just a switch. Center switch position is off (the green/white wire going to switch is then isolated).

The green/white wire comes from the flasher.

Left turn signal position connects the green/white wire to green/black.

Right turn connects the green/white to green/yellow.

The hazard switch just connects the flasher to both green/black and green/yellow wires at the same time.

You can check for electrical continuity between wire based on turn switch position. Or check for power at the green/black and green/yellow wires with the switch at left and right positions.

If the hazards work, the basic system and wiring are OK.

Did you take out the dash console when doing work? It could be one of the various harness wiring connections is not fully making contact.

Not stating you did something, but might note. The wire going the tacho signal from the igniter is colored black. The same color as the wire going from the rheostat to the console lighting.

Brown wire is ground to chassis. Check for a good ground.

Did any one previously make changes to the wiring. Perhaps to install the previous radio?

 

Thanks again for all your help Joey.

The blinker switch was bad. Now I just have to reassemble without breaking anything else.


MTW

 

Joey,

I have one last question. The airbag light needs to be reset. The Haynes manual says I need to go to the dealer because it requires a special tool. Is there a home mechanic fix?

Thanks.

MTW