Wife car came home on a hook. She call me before she arrived said after a 60mph down the freeway she park at the store. All the red lights came on and Steam coming from under the hood.

After Hook dropped the car. I open hood, the Upper hose was off Radiator. I reattached the hose put water in. Car started and the water blow out back out the fill. To me the Head gasket is Blown.

Called a Automotive Engine Machine Shop. They suggested Head, Bolts and Main/rod Bearings.

Before I tear into it.

Asking How far should I go?

What side parts should be replaced at same time?

What post should I be Reading?

Have the Dealer Shop Repair Manual. PDF

New to the Forums.

 

Did the temp gauge go into the red? Did the engine stop on its own and if so were there any noises such as engine knock before stopping?

Check the oil and determine if it has dropped significantly as this type of overheating can burn a lot of oil fast.

Did you fill the coolant system completely up? If not air in the system can purge out violently if not a blown head gasket.

The engine tends to blow a head gasket if overheated. Best test method is a block test for exhaust gases in coolant.

If engine will run (even if head gasket blown) OK and doesn't make knocking noises then would assume lower end is OK.

If a blown head gasket any warp can be determined. The manual has the warp limits. The machine shop can tell you how much can be taken off the head without needing to scrap it.

Thus:
-Check if coolant is full and not the reason for spewing coolant.

-Determine if engine runs OK (or reasonable so) and doesn't make knocking noises.

-Do a block test for exhaust gases unless certain the head gasket is blown.

-If gasket blown, remove hand and check warpage. Also view cylinder walls for scoring.

-If the lower end appears OK, have a competent engine shop check head for warpage. If not excessive and can be machined out then have them check for cracks.

-If the head is now warp free and no cracks its your choice to do a valve job (this increases cost). If no valve job, suggestion changing the valve stem seals at this time as with age they degrade and leak oil.

 

the 4 cyl engines don't like getting that heated

an over heat can strip the rear head bolt threads out of the block

if the engine rebuild costs are too great on your motor

fit a second hand engine is another option


a head will need

Head machine check valves also pressure and warp tests
a VRS kit
new head bolts
new oil
coolant -thermostat- flush radiator of any oil

motor rebuild plus extra
the full engine gasket set
all bearings and seals
oil filter
flush radiator - new thermostat and radiator cap

these use the same 4 cyl motor
I found
when taking the rocker gear off
the valve rockers have shims for clearance
they have to be removed and replaced exactly as found an in order ... I use an empty egg carton ==well marked

Dont know if this helps if just taking off the head
I did a write up of a 1994 engine removal in DIY section

https://www.camryforums.com/forum/di...ove-top-49721/

 

Used Engine got one for 750 Cheaper than Rebuilding by Machine Shop 1250.
Used Engine Store did not know the Mileage.
It does run good.