Hi new here was wondering if anyone out there had any ideas what is wrong with my camry. It is a 1999 2.2l camry with about 133,000 miles on it that I bought not running. The guy I bought it from said the oil light came on right before it died so I checked the oil it was full the timing belt was off a cog and had oil in that area from cam seal leaking, so I replaced the timing belt and pulley although it was fine and replaced the cam seal. Now it has spark noid light is getting pulse and cylinders have about 120 psi and am getting to much fuel as it is flooding the plugs, with the scanner hooked up and reading in datastream the millisecond pulse is way more than the recommended so I thought it may have been the ecm so I replaced it with a salvage yard one with roughly the same results there are no codes and when I unplug the cam sensor and crank the engine over still no codes and no difference I don't won't and can't afford to take it to dealer any thoughts is it just another bad ecm I put in or would a cam sensor do this.

 

How long has the car been sitting? If ethanol fuel, it can start to separate and pickup water.

Did you recheck the cam/crank pulley alignment after rotating the crank 2 times CW?

How strong is the ign spark, should be able to gap 1/2 inch of air.

Codes may only be set if the engine is running or the car/engine cycles through a preset routine and fails at least twice.

If you have service data check the resistance of the sensors including TPS.

 

Has not been sitting very long and yes the alignment has been checked, I don't have the procedure or the specs for the sensors, the spark is a strong blue one. When i crank the engine over with the plugs out the compression shoots out alot of fuel from each cylinder

 

If engine oil pressure light was on and engine dead, have you checked compression?

Crankshaft position sensor resistance cold 985-1600 ohm.

Camshaft 835-1400.

Make sure wiring is not damaged and ohm reading is constant, does not rise with time.

For TPS, disconnect wire plug. Use something to retract the throttle opener dash pot rod. Check resistance of TPS electrical pins are follows:

VTA-E2 0.2-5.7 kohm
With throttle fully open 2.0-10.2 Kohm
VC-E2 2.5-5.9 kohm

With plug locking device on the right side and looking at the pins. From top to bottom pins are VTA, E2, VC.

 

Compression is around 120psi if I remember right and thank you for the info i'll try checking the sensors. If I'm getting spark does'nt that mean the crank sensor is good.

 

Yes, but check anyway and determine if the sensors ohm reading is constant with time or starts to change such as increase.

 

I'm not totally proficient with a digital volt ohm meter but the 200k ohm scale was the only reading I got on the crank sensor and it read 2.1 consistent on the cam sensor it read 1.2 consistent it did read on the other scales but not the readings u posted as for the tps I have not had the time to check it yet

 

Well it was the crank sensor but when it started it has a rod knock so now,I'm thinking about selling it as is since it was going to be a car to fix and sell since it don't need it. It's located in central illinois rust free body with only 129,000 mi new timing belt and tensioner, new crank sensor newer water pump,radiator, newer tires and quiet exhaust. thank you for the info toyomoho that helped alot.