2009 Camry Front LCAs an BJs removal
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2009 Camry Front LCAs an BJs removal
2009 Toyota Camry LE 2.4 4-cylinder 2AZ-FE
Car has over 470,000 miles on the odometer and still chugging along. Regular oil changes, fluid topoffs, and constantly checking over everything keeping it going. Not to mention that most of my driving is highway miles for courier work so the wear and tear on components like brakes, tires, and suspension feels less.
Just recently had to spend $1900 on diagnosis and replacement of new ABS module and hood latch, originals for both lasted over 450k. Trying to replace front lower control arms and attached ball joints by myself which is a pain because they are rusted, stuck, and seized, likely original from 2009.
I was able to remove the drivers side control arm finally after many days of labor the last time around I attempted this job but the castle nut was stuck on top of the knuckle, and ball joint below appeared to move but the castle nut is still flush with the knuckle even after multiple sprays of PB Blaster, multiple attempts to free it with 19mm wrench with force, and had to drill out the original cotter pin.
The 1A Auto/TRQ video and the William Kinkaid video and the el chano jose video all had the same ideas but in different order, however the kinkaid video and trq/1a did not show removal of axle nut and brake caliper and rotor to better or easier access the knuckle.
I am currently trying to follow the TrackPalmer video of over 13 minutes in length which reccomends breaking axle nut with 30mm 12 point socket and breaker bar with car on ground, loosen lug nuts, raise and support vehicle, remove 2 22mm nuts holding strut to knuckle, tap out the bolts with a hammer, but remove caliper/pads, abs bracket/line/brake hose get it out of the way, and remove rotor. To then undo the 2 bolts and 1 nut holding control arm to ball joint, removing axle nut, removing hub from driveshaft.
I feel that removal of the knuckle from the axle or driveshaft would give me more space to try to free the ball joint. I have already tried to cut the boot to see what is going on under the ball joint and there appeared to be a lot of grease still there. I already purchased new contol arms with ball joints from Advance Auto Parts, the carquest brand.
I'm hopeful that if I had more space or could remove the knuckle altogether temporarily, I would be able to get the ball joint and castle nut loose with direct force from a breaker bar and 19mm socket, or nut splitter, or sawzall or something. I don't have experience with heat or with cutting tools so I'm trying to avoid those options if at all possible. I would prefer to not have to buy a new knuckle or axle or driveshaft at this time. I already have spent about 200 for 4 new motor/trans mounts to replace rusted ones last done 5 or more years ago at mileages under 120k.
Aside from the ball joints, I have been able to, on my own (I'm NOT a mechanic) get the 2 nuts and bolts free that join the control arm to the ball joint piece, get the 2 22mm bolts that are under the transmission mount free, get the other bolt free, and remove the arm except for the ball joint. Obviously I already had been able to loosen and remove the 3 17mm nuts holding the bottom of the trans mount, and the top nut, safely raising the transmission to get the mount free.
Because I was not able to free the castle nut, the last time, I put a new cotter pin in and secured it, put everything else back together, and kept driving doing my thing. The shop I use would not do the alignment unless I did the control arms with them at $1000, and the car is severely out of alignment, which I had already paid for the alignments with their 3 year plan.
At this time, with every rusted bolt/stuck nut taking me half or a whole day to figure some other way out, I am hopeful that the track palmer video way will allow me to finally get the components free.
As of now, I cannot get the 22mm bolts/nuts holding the front strut assembly to the knuckle, to break free. I tried to counter hold with a 22mm wrench while using cheater bar - top handle of HFT floor jack - on top of 1/2 drive 18in breaker bar. the nuts and bolts seem to spin together.
I am looking for ideas to deal with these stuck bolts and nuts. Thank you all for your time and assistance.
Car has over 470,000 miles on the odometer and still chugging along. Regular oil changes, fluid topoffs, and constantly checking over everything keeping it going. Not to mention that most of my driving is highway miles for courier work so the wear and tear on components like brakes, tires, and suspension feels less.
Just recently had to spend $1900 on diagnosis and replacement of new ABS module and hood latch, originals for both lasted over 450k. Trying to replace front lower control arms and attached ball joints by myself which is a pain because they are rusted, stuck, and seized, likely original from 2009.
I was able to remove the drivers side control arm finally after many days of labor the last time around I attempted this job but the castle nut was stuck on top of the knuckle, and ball joint below appeared to move but the castle nut is still flush with the knuckle even after multiple sprays of PB Blaster, multiple attempts to free it with 19mm wrench with force, and had to drill out the original cotter pin.
The 1A Auto/TRQ video and the William Kinkaid video and the el chano jose video all had the same ideas but in different order, however the kinkaid video and trq/1a did not show removal of axle nut and brake caliper and rotor to better or easier access the knuckle.
I am currently trying to follow the TrackPalmer video of over 13 minutes in length which reccomends breaking axle nut with 30mm 12 point socket and breaker bar with car on ground, loosen lug nuts, raise and support vehicle, remove 2 22mm nuts holding strut to knuckle, tap out the bolts with a hammer, but remove caliper/pads, abs bracket/line/brake hose get it out of the way, and remove rotor. To then undo the 2 bolts and 1 nut holding control arm to ball joint, removing axle nut, removing hub from driveshaft.
I feel that removal of the knuckle from the axle or driveshaft would give me more space to try to free the ball joint. I have already tried to cut the boot to see what is going on under the ball joint and there appeared to be a lot of grease still there. I already purchased new contol arms with ball joints from Advance Auto Parts, the carquest brand.
I'm hopeful that if I had more space or could remove the knuckle altogether temporarily, I would be able to get the ball joint and castle nut loose with direct force from a breaker bar and 19mm socket, or nut splitter, or sawzall or something. I don't have experience with heat or with cutting tools so I'm trying to avoid those options if at all possible. I would prefer to not have to buy a new knuckle or axle or driveshaft at this time. I already have spent about 200 for 4 new motor/trans mounts to replace rusted ones last done 5 or more years ago at mileages under 120k.
Aside from the ball joints, I have been able to, on my own (I'm NOT a mechanic) get the 2 nuts and bolts free that join the control arm to the ball joint piece, get the 2 22mm bolts that are under the transmission mount free, get the other bolt free, and remove the arm except for the ball joint. Obviously I already had been able to loosen and remove the 3 17mm nuts holding the bottom of the trans mount, and the top nut, safely raising the transmission to get the mount free.
Because I was not able to free the castle nut, the last time, I put a new cotter pin in and secured it, put everything else back together, and kept driving doing my thing. The shop I use would not do the alignment unless I did the control arms with them at $1000, and the car is severely out of alignment, which I had already paid for the alignments with their 3 year plan.
At this time, with every rusted bolt/stuck nut taking me half or a whole day to figure some other way out, I am hopeful that the track palmer video way will allow me to finally get the components free.
As of now, I cannot get the 22mm bolts/nuts holding the front strut assembly to the knuckle, to break free. I tried to counter hold with a 22mm wrench while using cheater bar - top handle of HFT floor jack - on top of 1/2 drive 18in breaker bar. the nuts and bolts seem to spin together.
I am looking for ideas to deal with these stuck bolts and nuts. Thank you all for your time and assistance.
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 15,179
From: PTW
Congratulations on getting 470K out of the car!
I am trying to get up to speed here.
What kind of tools you have access to? As in a conventional welding torch or small propane tank torch? A die grinder with a cut off wheel?
Are you talking about the 2 large nuts/bolts that attach the lower part of the strut to the axle assy? You state when you try to rotate the nut, the nut and bolt spin as unit?
See private message.
I am trying to get up to speed here.
What kind of tools you have access to? As in a conventional welding torch or small propane tank torch? A die grinder with a cut off wheel?
Are you talking about the 2 large nuts/bolts that attach the lower part of the strut to the axle assy? You state when you try to rotate the nut, the nut and bolt spin as unit?
See private message.
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Chriscam84
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Dec 31, 2008 04:56 PM
