95 Camry V6 3.0 - Replacing brake hose (rubber)
 

Replaced all my metal brake hoses a while back. However, the rubber hoses looked fine and the metals hoses in the engine fine.

I could not see any cracking inside the wheel wells. I decided to change them one day since I accidentally saw a date on the rubber of 5/95.OEM. Wow!!!

Once removed, I could bend it back and forth and man there were many cracks. I think sometimes you have to remove it to check.

There is the outside rubber which is tuff, a cloth like sheathing and the inside rubber line which I do not know what may be compromised and living in the salt belt makes it worse (sliced open with razor blade easily).

Bought the new one at Oreilly (Brake best) and still expensive, $30 a pop. They went on fine but suggested connecting flared fitting first, then banjo, then clamp to strut.

Also. lots of pbblaster. Take your time. You don't want to reflare. First time these were disconnected(flaring connection), since can see the rust proofing. Need to do backs.

Oh, watch the flared nut. I rounded one partially but still intact.

Hope this helps someone.

Thanks for posting with your in depth fix! Am sure others will benefit.

1995 Camry wont move in drive.
 

I also just rebuilt my calipers; however when the car is jacked up (jack stands) with the with tires on and in drive they spin as I accelerate. Normal.

Once down on ground it does not move in drive, only reverse. Trans fluid OK(red) and diff fluid OK.

These are my original calipers. Chrome Piston was OK but some pitting on inside I tried to smooth out.

May be time for new calipers?

Did the trans work OK before the work?

Make sure the axles are still installed firmly into the differential.

Suggest not operating the wheels when they are off the ground as this can damage the CV joints and cause other issues.

Yes, they did before work. Will check axles. Thanks. All this happened when I replaced the timimg belt and took a long time resulting in parts of car getting rusted. P

Yes, they did before work. Will check axles. Thanks. All this happened when I replaced the timing belt and took a long, long time. When testing out car ran good but then would not go forward after a while and had to go in reverse to get back home. Just a block. Plus, leaked alot of oil. Put in oil seal wrong but reinstalled correctly (harmonic balancer oil seal). Tested again but car not moving. Still leaks and runs fine but much less oil and will address later once car moves. This is what I think happened power washed engine to see all parts originally but rusted up stuff and reason for my issues I believe. Replaced, pads, rotor, rebuilt caliper, replaced brake hose since in the process saw it was in bad shape. The caliper cylinders were so stuck I had to crank compressor to 40 psi to shoot them out into a piece of wood for it to run into and covered with thick plywood for safety in case it decided to go air borne. At least now off ground the wheels spin in drive but will refrain from that as suggested. Thats why I think my calipers are shot. but will check axle.