Camry Forums - Toyota Camry Forum

Camry Forums - Toyota Camry Forum (https://www.camryforums.com/forum/)
-   DIY - Do It Yourself (https://www.camryforums.com/forum/diy-do-yourself-22/)
-   -   '99 camry 4 cyl LE radiator (https://www.camryforums.com/forum/diy-do-yourself-22/99-camry-4-cyl-le-radiator-44941/)

bayernboy 03-26-2013 06:12 PM

'99 camry 4 cyl LE radiator
 
I am in the process of replacing the radiator in my 99 camry LE 4 Cyl. Got the old radiator out but when moving the ECT sensor from the old to the new radiator, I discovered the sensor is too large for the opening in the bottom of the new radiator. Since this car has over 200K miles I can't determine which pieces are OEM and which are aftermarket at this point. The ECT sensor is the same size as larger ECT sensor which sits on the engine block. Do I have to buy a smaller ECT sensor to fit this different size opening in the radiator? Will this have the same temp thresholds as the larger? Or do I need to take the new radiator back and get one with the correct ect opening?

Thanks in advance,
Bayernboy

toyomoho 03-27-2013 12:00 PM

The hole should be the same size and strange it is not.

If you can, take both old and new radiators plus the ECT switch to the store and have them figure it out.

The old radiator could be non-original along with the switch. The clerk can pull a new switch and compare with what you have. Plus check the radiator in case it was somehow a manufacturing error.

If you do end up with a new radiator make sure store notes the change on any warranty forms you have and the original receipt if just a parts swap. Otherwise if in the future you need a warranty claim the receipt will not match the radiator you now have and the claim could be turned down.

bayernboy 03-27-2013 01:05 PM


Originally Posted by toyomoho (Post 78581)
The hole should be the same size and strange it is not.

If you can, take both old and new radiators plus the ECT switch to the store and have them figure it out.

The old radiator could be non-original along with the switch. The clerk can pull a new switch and compare with what you have. Plus check the radiator in case it was somehow a manufacturing error.

If you do end up with a new radiator make sure store notes the change on any warranty forms you have and the original receipt if just a parts swap. Otherwise if in the future you need a warranty claim the receipt will not match the radiator you now have and the claim could be turned down.


Thanks Joey. I ended up taking the new radiator back to the store with the old ect sensor. One of the clerks said that is the second Silla radiator that had that problem this week. Did find the correct part at Pep-Boys, cost a few bucks more but at let it fits. Bottom line avoid Silla aftermarket radiators for 99 Camry's. Out of curiosity I asked the guys a PB's the price to install the part. Don't know if the forum allows for price info to be shared but I'm save over $350 bucks by doing it myself. I was floored at their price!

Also, thanks for the warranty tip!
bayernboy

toyomoho 03-28-2013 11:01 AM

Good job on straightening out the problem! Even new parts can have issues.

You saved a good deal of money and can save additional by doing more work. If you don't already have a shop manual suggest you buy one. Haynes manuals have pretty decent coverage and the price is low at around $20.

Great job!

bayernboy 03-30-2013 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by toyomoho (Post 78590)
Good job on straightening out the problem! Even new parts can have issues.

You saved a good deal of money and can save additional by doing more work. If you don't already have a shop manual suggest you buy one. Haynes manuals have pretty decent coverage and the price is low at around $20.

Great job!

After installing the "correct" replacement radiator I flushed the system and then filled with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and extend life AF. However, now when I drive the car the water temp gauge creeps up to a normal level, but then while hitting highway speeds the gauge drops back down nearly to "C". Is this a symptom of air pockets which may still be in the system? I never removed any bleed valve like I've done with my other cars. I believe I read somewhere about a bleed valve somewhere on the engine block. Or could this be a sign of a thermostat issue? When the system cools down I pop open the radiator cap and it is completely full and I get plenty of heat from the vents while driving. Bayernboy


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:02 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands