I am new to Toyotas. I bought a 97 4 banger with just 124,000 on it over the summer and it threw a rod out of the blue a few weeks ago. It was full of oil and never gave a hint of problems until wham!!

Is this common for these cars? Should i get a used engine or get a rebuilt one?

Thanks

 

Throwing a rod is uncommon. Typical causes are running low or out of oil and hot rodding.

A used engine is cheaper which is what most people do. The engine was used from 1992-2001, however Toyota made changes over years. Try to find one of the same year and emissions type (Calif or Fed).

 

Thanks for the update.

Yes, it did seem rather odd. Maybe someone didn't change the oil enough.

I pulled the engine with the transmission. What is the best way to seperate the engine from transmission?

Thanks again.

 

There is an access plate under the trans bell housing. Loosen the torque converter bolts on the from flex plate via the access plate. The flex plate bolts to the crank shaft.

Rotate engine using crank pulley bolt CW to rotate flex plate/converter and access each bolt. Prior to fully unbolting the converter from the flex plate mark both to be able to assy them again in the same position to each other.

Note when unbolting that one bolt may be black. Mark the location of this bolt to be able to put it back in the same location. When bolting the trans back to the flex plate, this bolt is tightened first.

Remove all bolts. Then unbolt trans bell housing. Use the hole in the bell housing where the started bolted on for a hand lift point. Trans weighs about 120 lbs, have a friend help.

Try to keep the torque converter installed on the trans as it is filled with oil which will leak out. If the oil leaks out, refill with approx same amount of fluid prior to installing converter.

The converter installs on the trans output shift (accepts engine power). When installed the oil pump drive shaft (powers oil pump inside trans) needs to have tangs engage grooves to lock the shaft (a hollow tube) to the oil pump power input shaft. MAKE SURE the converter oil pump shaft is engaged with the pump or the converter will extend out about 1/8 inch from the bell housing. This will cause problems as when the bell housing is bolted to the trans the converter pump shift will be forced into the pump and damage it.

Then install flex plate bolts loose and tighten black bolt first, then others.

 

I have another dead Camry with the engine removed. I pulled the converter and put it back in for practice. I am pretty sure i see what you are talking about getting the converter back in the right place. You can hear it clunk in place, metal to metal and the converter is all the way in the bell housing. Kind hard to find the right place.

There was no black bolt. Should i replace the converter bolts? Should i use blue lock tight?

 

Bolt could also be green or some other color assuming one is a different color. If no colored bolt, inspect bolts to determine if one is slightly different. If not, one bolt is as good as another.

No need to replace bolts unless damaged. Use blue Locktite and wait 24 hours for it to cure.

Install bolts with Locktite, then torque bolts to spec.

 

Yes, i did notice that one of the bolts was green on top. This was after i removed it. Is there any way to figure out where it came from?

I did find a used engine with around 170k. While I have it out I was going to replace the timing belt, water pump, valve cover gasket (since they always seem to leak) and thought about the oil pump. Does that sound like a good idea? Anything else that I might need to look at?

Also brands of parts. Is there a cheap place to buy real Toyota parts?

Thanks again, you have been a big help!!

 

Don't know on the green bolt location. Suggest putting the No 1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke then install green bolt on bottom of flex plate (if hole location is at the bottom). Then install other bolts loose, then tighten green bolt then other bolts.

For the oil pump can save a few dollars by just changing out the oil pump drive shaft seal and preformed o-ring that seals the oil pump body with the larger housing it mounts to. These parts are available. If you up to this can furnish more info on how to do this.

When inspecting under the timing cover check for signs of oil at the cam and crank seals. Some owners replace these and easy now with engine out of car. Might also consider changing the engines rear crank seal since you have access.

Check the "freeze plugs" for signs of rusting through. Not common but has happened. The ones in the back are difficult to replace when engine in the car.

Inspect the flex plate for cracking. Might swap plate to new engine. Clean crank and flex plate surfaces of rust and debris that the plate will contact each other. Use Locktite on the crank bolts.

For lower cost parts suggest sites like rockauto.com, partsgeek.com, etc.

 

The cam seal looks fine. It is leaking at the bottom, so I will replace crank seal and we are currently talking about oil pump.

I did notice the teeth on the flex plate were pretty chewed up, so i put on the flex plate from the other engine. I did use red lock tight. The rear seal was not leaking so I left it alone.

A question on the timing belt. I have put it on TDC and the cam sprocket is in the right place. Is there a place on the crank sprocket that tells me it is lined up other then the one on the timing cover. Also the Gates belt did not come marked, I thought they all came marked. So i marked the old belt and will count teeth, is this the only way?

Thanks again. You have been a big help!!

 

Only some belts come marked, perhaps Toyota brand.

The best way is what you are doing.

The tooth counting method should also work as the number of teeth should be the same for every belt.

After belt installation always the check cam/crank pulley confirm proper installation using the method below (rotate crank 2 times CW).

For the crank/cam alignment method. Align crank to 0 degree mark (TDC). Place cam pulley in correct location with hole in spoke lining up with notch (mark) on top of front cam mount.

Install belt.

Loosen timing belt idler pulley (if not already).

Rotate engine crank 2 times CW and stop at TDC mark. Check if cam pulley mark is still correct. If not, correct the location and repeat the 2 times CW action to confirm the cam mark is still in the proper location.

If correct tighten idler pulley.

You can install the belt on the lower portion of engine to able to button it up and install the lower timing cover/pulley and crank bolt. Then use the timing marks on cover for TDC.