Ok everyone,

I am not very good with cars so bear with me, but recently my 95 Camry 2.2L overheated and the timing belt broke. Me and my friend went in and changed the belt and water pump among many other things (distributor, spark plugs, distributor cap) trying to get it to start again with no luck. I have some other mechanic friends who told me that I definitely bent my valves, but I have read many posts online saying that this cant happen because the 95s have a non-interference engine. Is it possible for the valves to still bend somehow? Is there a way I can check to see if they are working correctly?

 

The engine over heated then the belt broke? Or did the water pump freeze up and then the belt broke? Or ?

How hot did the engine get, was the temp gauge needle into the red and if so for how long?

As to the bent valve. The engine is non-interference, belts do break and nothing is damaged. Odds are the valves are OK.

A bent valve may no longer close completely resulting in that cylinder no longer be able to compress the air. That cylinder will have less resistance when the engine is turned by the stater motor. As the engine turns over, the starter will speed up when the piston is unable to compress the cylinder having the leaking valve. The result is the sound coming from the engine changes perhaps having a higher pitch at the piston having low compression.

Or remove the valve cover and turn the crank manually CW two full rotations while watching the valve operation. A bent valve will not fully close or may stick. Since all valves can not be bent look for any differences in the valve stem/spring operation. The engine has 24 valves that operate the same way.

As to the non-starting issue. If the engine ran OK before this problem then best to stop changing parts and instead try to find if something was not repaired correctly.

Make sure the timing belt was installed correctly. It is possible to install the belt with the cam/crank shaft timing off. The engine will still have ign spark but will not start. Does the engine have ign spark?

You can do a basic check on belt installation by removing distributor cap and rotating the crankshaft pulley by hand until it is as the TDC mark with the No 1 cylinder on the compression stoke.

The rotor should be at the No 1 spark plug wire electrode on the distributor cap (when reinstalled).

 

The engine got hot while at a light but didnt get into the red. Once I started accelerating it cooled off a bit until right before I got to my destination (not even a mile away), then it just died. I had it towed and checked the timing belt to see that it was completely shredded.

I replaced it with a new one and the water pump while I was there. I do believe that it could just be the timing is off because I am getting spark. I will try to turn the crankshaft pulley by hand and re-installing the distributor and see if that works. I have just been having trouble finding where the pulley is so I have yet to try that.

I also bought a timing light to check the timing but it wouldnt turn on, I took it back for a new one and that one didnt work either, so I am either doing it wrong or had 2 faulty ones, which wouldnt surprise me because a lot of reviews said they had the same problem.

thanks for the feedback, I will keep at it!

 

I found the crankshaft pulley and tried turning it by hand, however my belt has no markings to indicate TDC. I tried turning it until my rotor pointed to my #1 electrode but still it just cranked and cranked but wouldnt turn over

 

If the timing was OK before the belt broke it should be OK after replacement unless the distributor was rotated. Recheck strength of spark, it should be able to gap 1/2 inch of air.

Guessing there is a problem with the cam and crankshaft pulleys not being oriented correctly when the belt was installed.

Are the timing cover(s) removed?

The crankshaft pulley has a reference line across round outer surface. The timing cover has timing marks labeled 0,5. 10, 15. The crank rotates twice for ever one rotation of the cam shaft (and distributor rotor).

When the line on the crank pulley is aligned with the 0 degree indication on the timing cover marks, the crank is either at TDC for the No 1 piston at compression stroke (roor pointing at No 1 electrode) or 180 degrees off. Meaning if not at TDC for the No 1 piston the crank will need to be turned 360 degrees CW to obtain this.

What references did you use to align the cam and crank pulley before installing the timing belt?

What kind of timing light do you have?

 

that one is tough, I can't recommend any actions to this it seem to be complicated.

 

I have been messing with the distributor quite a bit so there is potential that it was rotated.

My friend said he definitely made sure No1 piston was at TDC when he put the new one on, but like I said I have been messing with it a lot so there is potential that that has changed too.

The timing cover was put back after we installed the belt so no it is not removed.

My friend did the installing of the belt, so I am not sure what he used to align them, but I do remember him telling me that the belt wasnt marked but he said he figured it out later

This is the timing light I tried to use:
Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light : Amazon.com : Automotive

 

If you are handy with tools either remove the valve cover or upper timing belt cover. Then rotate the crank until the No 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.

Remember the crank rotates twice for every one rotation of camshaft. It is possible and has happened the cam/crank pulley alignment is 180 degrees off when the belt is installed.

You can watch the valve train movement on the No 1 piston (closest to drivers side of car). When turning the crank CW, the intake valve will open then close. When closed and still turning the crank watch for the line on the crank pulley to appear when looking down on the pulley.

When the line is aligned with the 0 degree indication on the timing belt cover the No 1 piston should be at TDC on the compression stroke.

If the line doesn't appear but is 180 degrees off (at bottom of crank pulley) the cam/crank pulley alignment is off.

If the upper timing belt cover is off you can watch the cam pulley. It has a hole in one of the spokes. When looking through the hole towards the block, rotate the crank CW to center the hole on a mark/notch on the top of the upper cam bearing. Then check the line on the crank pulley, it should be at the 0 degree mark.

Don't know why the timing gun does not work. Suggest trying on another engine. First when running, then when cranking.

Once your engine is running in order to time it ideally the engine should be warmed up, running with all accessories off. Use a section of electrical wire to jump the TE1 and E1 terminals inside a small box on the passengers strut tower labeled diagnostic. The engine idle should rise to 1000-1300 rpm for a few seconds then drop to normal. Then set timing to 10 degrees.

If the engine was running OK when the belt broke best not to readjust any items until the timing belt installation is confirmed to be correct.






The result is ign spark but at the wrong time.