Electrical problems
#1
Electrical problems
I
have a 1998 Camry four-cylinder it seems like when I start the engine it starts right up and then runs for a few seconds and then shuts off I have checked the ignition coils and a check okay I have also checked the map sensor that EGR Valve crank positioning sensor to I have discovered when the alternator starts to charge the engine quits on have tried a new alternator and it does the same thing I have remove the wires from the alternator in the car runs fine so I hook tham back up and removed three wires from the regulator and it still runs the when I plug them back in one at a time the red and green wire one makes the engine quit I know there should be a simple problem but I cannot seem to find we have checked out all the relays and fuses and even replace thim the problem is still alluding me I could use some help.
Last edited by tomm; 09-18-2011 at 08:23 PM.
#4
The problem seemsto be when the alternator starts to charge it cuts out the engine this only occurs when the red wire with the green stripe is hoped the two of them regularly in the back of the alternator I have even tried running new wires to the alternator from the battery the problem remains
#9
Don't know.
Don't run the alt with the large battery cable to the alt disconnected or the alt can be damaged.
Connect a voltmeter to the battery, measure voltage engine off, on, alt running and not.
Determine if the voltage drops before the engine is about die. The alt could be pulling down the voltage.
Connect a voltmeter to the B terminal of alt (large cable connection). Voltage should battery voltage engine off and 13.5-15.1v engine at 2000 rpm.
Assume the battery is OK and can take a charge.
The white wire should have battery voltage engine off, or charging voltage engine on (voltages would be the same as the battery is experiencing). White wire goes to Alt fuse then a fusible link box then battery.
Yellow wire goes to alt light on dash then ignition fuse. Voltage between yellow wire and ground should be 0-4v ign switch on, engine off.
Red wire goes to gauge fuse the ign switch AM1 circuit to AM1 fuse and same fusible link box as white wire.
Don't run the alt with the large battery cable to the alt disconnected or the alt can be damaged.
Connect a voltmeter to the battery, measure voltage engine off, on, alt running and not.
Determine if the voltage drops before the engine is about die. The alt could be pulling down the voltage.
Connect a voltmeter to the B terminal of alt (large cable connection). Voltage should battery voltage engine off and 13.5-15.1v engine at 2000 rpm.
Assume the battery is OK and can take a charge.
The white wire should have battery voltage engine off, or charging voltage engine on (voltages would be the same as the battery is experiencing). White wire goes to Alt fuse then a fusible link box then battery.
Yellow wire goes to alt light on dash then ignition fuse. Voltage between yellow wire and ground should be 0-4v ign switch on, engine off.
Red wire goes to gauge fuse the ign switch AM1 circuit to AM1 fuse and same fusible link box as white wire.
#10
Joey I have load tested the battery it checks out okay. When I plug in the red wire with green stripe it still shuts the engine off. I have run a jumper wire from the red and green stripe wire precision on the back off the alt to the battery and even with this isolated and it still shuts the engine off. I have disconnected the alternator B terminal of alt (large cable connection). With the belt removed from the alt and then hooked up my battery charger to it and then start up the engine with the battery charger on high boost which is about 50 to 70amp the engine ran just fine and kept going. The battery charger was putting out about 15voltage. I have just picked up a original wire diagram book toyota and have been going over it and testing many off the circuit and have yet to find any problem. I was just wondering if the alternator is not the problem could it be in the engine controller that somehow shut down the motor .