oil pan gasket for 98 2.2L
 

The bolts at the trans end are covered with a foam. Do I need to reuse that foam. Otherwise, I am not sure of what parts need to be loosened / removed to get the full clearance to remove the pan.
There is a bracket to the front side, that I cannot loosen one bolt to move out of the way.

Hello cochise. I just recently replace my oil pan gasket on my 2001 Camry with the 2.2L engine. I just posted a DIY on the job on another forum but the members there didn't exactly welcome it. I'll try to rewrite and post the DIY here later.

The foam doesn't have to be reuse; you can tear it out of the way. I believe the bracket you're describing is the stiffener. It has two 14mm bolt that gose to the transmission and one 14mm bolt that goes into the engine. This brace has to be remove to get to the oil pan bolts (which also holds an exhaust manifold stay, that doesn't have to be remove)

Here's the two bolts at the Transmission
http://bulk-share.slickpic.com/album...p/IMG_9630.jpg

Here's the third one at the Engine
http://bulk-share.slickpic.com/album.../IMG_97752.jpg

A few owners claimed they remove the pan with dropping the exhaust. I was unable to do that. A few years ago, I had to replace the flex pipe on my Camry's exhaust and it must have been bigger than factory and got in the way. If your exhaust bolts are not so rusty, I still highly recommend dropping the down pipe from the exhaust manifold. This includes removing the exhaust bracket by the flex pipe and loosing the exhaust hanger behind it. This also you to easily install the pan with new FIPG straight up install of juggling around the exhaust pipe.

Yuko , Thanks for the comment ! Looking at the job, I thought that the insulator wasn't too important. Since the the stiffener needs to be removed, ( which was what I thought)
(but was hoping I was wrong , lol) my current issue is finding the right tool combination, ( looks like the one you have the wrench on,
to loosen to 2nd 14mm bolt up (looking at it from underneath the car). I dropped the exhaust, but didnt remove it complety. Do you replace those tension type locknuts, or just re use the 3 that were on the exhaust pipe.
I will be looking for any more info or hints you might have. Thanks again.

OK, got the pan off. Gotta clean the gasket surface on the motor, . Reaching the rear section looks like it will be tough. Is there anything that is recommended to remove the old sealer compound. Also have a boken bolt that needs repair. right at the corner, by the frame. Hope that doesn't become a big project.

By the book, they recommend replacing the exhaust nut but I reused the original nuts with no problem since they were still in good condition. (Torque to 46 ft lb) Also, there's an exhaust gasket that sets on the down pipe. Some say you can reuse them but for $3 at any parts store, I think it's best to drop in a new one. Felpro: 23626 or Toyota P/N 90917-06066.
http://bulk-share.slickpic.com/album...p/IMG_9655.jpg

I used a thin metal scraper and some brake cleaner. Be careful when cleaning the block because the oil pump housing and the rear cap on the block is aluminum and you don't when to dig into that.
http://bulk-share.slickpic.com/album...p/IMG_9642.jpg

If you're using FIPG (foam in place gasket) or RTV, here's the recommend way to apply the bead. Near the rear of the pan, you'll have to run the bead near the edge because there's not much mating surface on the block.
http://bulk-share.slickpic.com/album...0/p/gasket.png

Permatex Ultra is very similar to the OE sealant but had a 24hr cure time. Permatex right stuff has a quicker drying time and you can add oil back in the engine after the pan is on. Either sealant, the pan and block surface has be very clean from oil or it will leak. Pan bolts are torqued to 48 INCH IB. But I just tighten them reasonably with my hand on the head of the racket.

If you're using a cork gasket (which I got bitched about on another Toyota forum), be aware you'll have to re-tighten the pan bolts since the cork gasket will compress a bit after a few days. Hope that broken bolts come out with ease for you.

I was going to replace the tension nuts for the exhuast. But they were only available @ Home Depot in a 1.50 pitch. The car has a 1.25 pitch for those nuts. Maybe I will look in Lowes. Of course I know about the exhaust gasket and have it waiting to go on.
I am using the Felpro cork gasket, (please don't tell those other guys.) Should I use any sealer with that gasket? Thanks for the details on the sealer beads. Just sealer on pan. or both sides of gasket.?
While we are talking, I know I didnt mention the trans pan is also being done.
The torque for those bolts, (same size) I guess will also be 48 in lbs. ?
That broken bolts did cause a small problem. Didnt get it drilled straight on centre.
So it ends I only have a few threads left in that hole. So I picked up a 40mm long bolt,
to run all the way thru, and up. The extra length should allow me to back up the threads, with a nut. So I got a tension nut to put on that bolt. . Oh well..

The transmission pan bolts are to torque 43 in lb. (Pretty much the same as the engine oil pan but uses a molded rubber gasket.)

The factory recommend using only sealant or FIPG on the oil pan side with the engine side clean and dry before installation; no gasket. There are several reasons cork gasket is not recommended. Cork gasket loose compression and dry out over time which will cause it to leak. Also require period re-torquing of the bolts. There's also the chance of the gasket breaking apart and falling into the engine oil in pieces. (If I had a choice, a molded rubber gasket would be best but I couldn't find one.)

If you’re comfortable with using the cork gasket, run a small bead of sealant at the four corners where the aluminum housing meets the engine block. Felpro recommend to install the gasket dry and that what I did. I did apply some spray adhesive to the pan to stick the gasket on so it wouldn't slide off when installing.
http://bulk-share.slickpic.com/album.../IMG_96502.jpg

Having said that, I'm planning to redo my oil pan job and using only FIPG instead of the cork just like the factory.

I think I will give a shot at looking for a different gasket.. For the record the
Fel Pro gasket is cork..
Back to the trans for a sec please. I have from different sources that the A140 trans uses Dextron II , and another states Dextron III. AutoZone had their own brand, a Dextron IV , which says it can be used in place of either II or III. So I picked 3 qts up.What would you recommend for trans fluid? And while on the subject, do you know how many qts I should have on hand for this job.

Dexron VI (GM skip 4 and 5 for some reason) is backward compatible with Dexron III and II. A drain and refill takes about 2.6 quarts so 3 quarts sound good. I personally like to use Valvoline Maxlife ATF and others had good success with Castrol Transmax Dexron VI and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Autozone's Dexron VI is a good ATF which is made by Warran Oil and approved by GM. (All approved Dexron VI ATF has to be full synthetic anyway.)

BTW, if you do find a rubber pan gasket, would you mind posting the part number? Thanks.

For Dexron IV see link below:

http://www.toyotapart.com/AUTOMATIC_...T-TC001-02.pdf

Your trans is an A140E.

Look at Wix for rubber gasket.

Thanks for the TSB chart. I heard of dealerships trying to sell Type-IV/4 as compatible with Dexron-III/3, which this shows they're not.

BTW, Toyota Type-IV/4 should not be confused with Dexron VI/6. (GM never made an ATF called Dexron IV/4.) They went with D-II/2, D-III/3, then D-VI/6.

so we are all put together again.. I used the Ultra sealant, so will give it the 24 hr cure time. Other than the coupla bolts on the stiffener that were a problem to loosen, and of course the one broken bolt on the pan, that needed repair. Everything went smooth, except for working on the ground cause I dont have a lift, which took all the fun out of the job.
Tmrrw gonna add oil and trans fluid, and check to be sure. Now, just to be sure I understand, The Dexron VI is an acceptable fluid.. I was at AutoZone today, they dont have Dexron II or III.

Glad everything is coming together. Dexron VI is perfectly fine in your transmission. (Dexron VI supersede the old Dexron-II and III) The A140E is a durable transmission and it not picky on what brand of ATF as long as it's a type of Dexron.

Was at AutoZone, and saw a Castrol product, (dont remember exact product) labeled Mercon, but listed as "compatable with all Toyota transmissions."
I know this question is a little off subject, but could you clear up that statement.
Just from what I have picked up, it is clear that Toyota uses Dexron fluids.

Don't know without the specific type of product.

The car maker picks or develops (common) a transmission fluid spec that meets their SPECIFIC needs. If a spec was developed the car maker can then license the spec (and the name they gave the fluid) to other transmission fluid makers.

Dexron is a GM licensed product, Mercon is Ford.

Toyota picked Dexron II and III which have are no longer licensed by GM and thus can not be sold under these names. Transmission fluid makers can make their own products the meet Dexron specs, they just can't used the name Dexron II or III.

As to compatible, the devil is in the details as the trans was designed for a specific type of fluid. Another fluid may work OK but the trans operate slightly different.

Products like Mobil 1, Valvoline Maxlife ATF, etc will result in a slightly differ transmission operation as the spec is not exactly the same as what fluid was originally used. This change in operation can be good, bad or not relevant.

Great !! Thanks for answering all my questions as I went thru these coupla jobs.
It all looks good, and clean. But, I do remember something about checking trans level while motor is on, somewhere from my past. (That is covering a few years,lol) Would that statement apply to the Camry. Right now, I started motor, put into gear a coupla times. When I turned motor off to check levels, engine oil was at bottom of range, so I topped off. The trans was in range using the bottom markers, (cold). I was going to recheck when trans is warmed up, just wanted to check to see if I should keep motor running when I check it. Thanks again for the help, and the reminders you threw in during the conversation.

Glad that's everything works out well for you. Yes, the Camry transmission (and nearly all autos) ATF level should be checked with the engine running. It's recommended to check the level hot for an actuate reading. Drive the car until the engine is fully warm up to normal then park on a level surface. Cycle through all the gear selections (P-R-N-D-2-L and back to Park) and let the engine run. Then check the transmission level; be careful of the engine fan nearby.

Thats what I thought. I will do that, before I go to AutoZone. I picked up one of those "cap" oil filter wrenches. It seemed to fit the filter I brought with me pretty well.
So back at the ranch, it spins on the STP filter in the car. So I just realized the filter hasn't been changed.. But that should wrap it up. I will be posting another question on A/C system soon. Until then, Thanks again for the help.

Well it didnt work out just perfect. I had to retorque the trans, and trace down a coupla leaks on the oil pan.
One problem the oil pan drain plug has a copper washer. Decided to replace that, so I picked up a package of assorted plug wshers. None of which were a correct match.
I used the copper washer with a larger O.D. The build up outside the O.D. of the original washer prevented it from sealing. Different style washer, problem solved.
But now that everything else is clean and dry, I realize there is a leak right above the flex pipe. I picked up some "Right Stuff" this time.. Hey! I had the Ultra here, and had the time to let it cure for 24 hrs. But this time, I will go right thru the job, and that should be the end of it..

Uh Oh ! The Ultra sealant is holding that pan on more than pretty well.. Too bad it was leaking in that one spot. Now unless you can give me some direction, to help me I will probably try to squeeze some more sealant in. Maybe that Right Stuff. And have to live with where I am. Right now I was just trying to free up the accessable rear edge. At this rate the right side. and front edge will be impossible. Any suggestions.

Where is the leak?

the leak was right above the flex pipe. But honestly, I tried to remove the pan, unsucesfully, I tried to separate the rear edge. Starting at the leak, I did separate most of that edge . But realized that the rest of the pan was not coming off, I stopped.
I don't see how to get a utility knife in all the way around to separate the rest of the pan.