Greetings,

I'm new here, and wondered if I might ask for everyone's opinion on something. If this message should more properly go elsewhere, please let me know.

To provide background, I am the owner of a much loved 1985 Toyota Camry. A month ago, and quite suddenly, I was unable to back out of my driveway. The car had no power it seemed. After a few moments, I tried again, and was successful. I had no further problems that drive, but the next time I started the car, it was clear that something was wrong. I had very little acceleration from stop, and the rpm needed to be higher than normal to maintain speed. I had to floor it to get up hills. Flooring the pedal would cause the RPMs to rise, but with no noticeable increase in speed (They'd go up to about 3500 rpm before suddenly dropping to 2100 or so, at which point I'd speed up some) My next trip was to be to the mechanics, but the car wouldn't start, so I had it towed.

The mechanic discovered that the catalytic converter was clogged, and replacing it did allow the car to start. However the acceleration problems remained. Next the mechanic noticed that the distributor was apparently quite noticeably burned out, so he replaced that. Still had the acceleration problems.

Now the diagnosis is that the computer is bad, or the cold start injector. To be honest, everyone I have described the car's problems too except my mechanic (who has been supremely reliable up to this point) has thought it was a transmission issue. Could a computer or cold start injector problem cause issues like what I was experiencing?

My thanks in advance for any thoughts you might have.

 

A trans problem would not cause the engine to fail to start.

A trans problem can cause the car not move when placed in R or any D gear or slip resulting is more throttle (and RPM) not resulting in acceleration.

Lack of engine power can result in lack of acceleration.

Did the mechanic change the ign coil along with the distributor? A bad ign coil can cause hard starting and lack of power.

The cold start injector operates to add more fuel when the engine coolant is cold. An injector that is not working (off) can cause hard starting when engine cold. An injector that does not turn off (always on or leaks) can result in too much fuel. This engine would run rough, perhaps have sluggish acceleration and burn too much gas.

The mechanic can test the injector system rather then replace it.

As to the computer, a failing computer can cause strange issues. They are available cheap used.

I would assume the mechanic has checked the obvious.

A bad trans is not going to cause a non-start condition. Did this problem go away after the work was done?

Did the mechanic check the trans fluid level and condition (color of fluid). It should be red or reddish not black.

 

My thanks for your response.

I'm afraid I don't have as hard answers for the questions as I'd like.

• The non start condition went away after the catalytic converter replacement. But the engine continues to be very slow to accelerate from start, require much higher rpm than normal, etc.
• The ignition coil was replaced three years ago. As part of the conversation with the mechanic prior to replacement of the distributor, he mentioned that the distributor included a new coil so I would assume that a new coil was installed (but this is an assumption, I may just have misunderstood.)
• Mechanic assures me that it is not a transmission issue, so I assume, like you he has checked the obvious. I checked the transmission fluid prior to having the car towed, and it was still red / reddish, definitely not black.

I am likely displaying my ignorance here, but I remain puzzled by the relationship between engine power / speed and rpm. I don't understand how I could build up to high rpm with no increase in speed and have it not be a transmission issue.

 

The converter must have been extremely plugged and or damaged to cause a non-start condition.

It is rare but has happened the converter became so hot parts of it melt and move down into the muffler continuing to plug up the exhaust. The mechanic can install a vacuum gauge on the intake and watch the gauge indication with the engine running to determine if the exhaust is plugged.

As stated previously the mechanic can check the cold start injector. It only works when the engine is cold. It could be leaking or not turning off but this would also cause a rough idle.

Lack of fuel to the engine can cause the high RPM low power issue. The fuel pump could be failing or the fuel filter plugged.

Check trans engagement when moving shifter from Park to a F or D gear. Is there a long delay or a harsh engagement? How does the trans shift when driving, smooth or harsh.

If a trans problem it will get worse and one day perhaps the car may not move in R or D.

Operate the engine at night with the hood raised and look for a blue glow or arcing from the plug wires. As they age they can leak electricity.

Unfortunately you need to go through your mechanic. Tough to diagnose over the computer.

If changing the computer, they are available used on Ebay or from an auto salvage yard.

 

My thanks again for your replies.

Yes, unfortunately going through the mechanic does make things more difficult. There's a story there, but one I won't bore you with. At the moment, we're trying a new to me computer. Unfortunately, given other issues this may be the last repair I can try (this repair has been costly in time and money).

To answer your questions:
The spark plug wires are new -ish, replaced them when I replaced the coil 3 years ago.

At rest, transmission engagement is smooth. Shifting between the gears is easy and seemingly prompt. Before this problem started, the gear switching at speed was also smooth. Once this problem started, the gear switching (as denoted by a sudden drop in rpm) became much more dramatic. Higher RPM were required to switch between each gear. This change in behavior happened overnight, but I did not drive it enough to see if the problem was getting worse.

I'm unsure about the fuel pump / fuel filter. I'll have to look into it.

My thanks again for your reply. I'll know if the computer fixed the issue by Thursday or so, at which point positive or negative, I'll post the results.

 

Well, it took a week longer than I hoped, but the results are in. Replacing both the computer and the cold start injector did not resolve the problem. At this point I still don't know what has caused the car's problems, which is incredibly frustrating.

Realistically though, it's been 2 months since I had a car and more money spent trying to fix it then I care to think about. 28 years is a good run for a car, and I'm sure others will find their Camrys last as long or longer. It will always remain the standard by which I judge all other cars, but I think it's probably time for something new.