1988 won't start - Need some help
 

I offered to fix a friends Camry that had sat for a few years. The timing belt was rotted out so I replaced it. Compression check is around 150 psi. then I checked the fuel pump and it was trashed (replaced it) and the tank too, as it had about a 1/2" of rust and sludge.


I then tried to start it and found the pump not working so I jumped the "FP and B+" which allowed the pump to work, but still won't start. So I checked for spark and found that I have a very weak spark to almost no spark. When I measured across the coil I get "1.9 ohms". I'm under the impression that is a good reading.


So I guess my questions are:
What should I check next?
By jumping the "FP to B+" what is it telling me is bad?


TIA

Added pictures of old fuel pump in my photo album.

If this much rust flush out the fuel line, change fuel filter.

Make sure injectors are not plugged by rust. Remove plugs and check for fuel getting into cylinders.

Jumping FB and B+ bypasses any relays, etc. It's a way to test the pump. The pump will only run when the engine is being started or running.

If a weak spark find the reason why. If the coil is external to the distributor, check spark with high voltage wire direct from coil. Should be able to gap 1/2 inch of air and be white in color. If not replace coil. If OK check distributor cap and rotor.

If this much rust flush out the fuel line, change fuel filter.
Yes, I already did this.

Make sure injectors are not plugged by rust. Remove plugs and check for fuel getting into cylinders.
Fuel wise - everything appears to be working OK as long as I have the jumper installed.

Jumping FB and B+ bypasses any relays, etc. It's a way to test the pump. The pump will only run when the engine is being started or running.
I read somewhere that it just bypasses the COR relay but your saying it bypasses ALL of them?

If a weak spark find the reason why. If the coil is external to the distributor, check spark with high voltage wire direct from coil. Should be able to gap 1/2 inch of air and be white in color. If not replace coil. If OK check distributor cap and rotor.
The coil is internal to the distributor but I should be able to check for spark at the coil. If there is No spark - what energizes the coil to cause it to spark?

Sometimes if the rust is fine enough it can get through the filter to the injectors.

You are correct FB/B+ bypasses COR but not EFI relay.

For spark, if internal coil check for spark at plug wires. Spark should be able to gap 1/2 of air and be white in color.

If no spark, the Black/Orange wire to the distributor powers both the coil AND igniter. This power comes from the AM2 side of ign switch then AM2 fuse.

When ign switch on, coil has power at POS terminal plus igniter. ECU works with sensors in distributor to time ign. ECU control igniter which times negative terminal of coil connection to ground completing circuit.

If your going to keep the car, suggest picking up a Haynes service manual for year 1983-91 cars (No 1023). Cost is around $20 new, available at auto stores. Used ones are available on Ebay and internet book sales at low prices. A great source of info for a low price.