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Main Beam Warning light innop with HID's
2 Attachment(s)
Hi everybody.. I am new to here but not new to Camry's...
Having owned 2 gen 3's and 2 gen 4's.... The Gen 4's a 1997 and a 1999 for a total of 12 years and our current gen 4 for 7 years now... I have a few questions and wasn;t sure where best to post so I thought I;d bob it in here and see where I ended up... Our current Camry is a 1999 Gen 4 V6 SPort ( UK Only model ) with the 1MZ-FE V6 engine. The Camry is a very rare car over here in blighty and even rarer in this sport trim and even rarer with SPort trim and the V6 :) We love it and she's recently just ticked over 130k miles... Anyway..a good many years ago I fitted and HID light set to the front headlights...they work very well...it has one bulb which changes position when you switch from main beam to full beam... However in the 5 years they have been on the main beam blue warning light has never been on...i think this is to do with a voltage change or not..electrics were never my strong point...i know it isnt the bulb of the warning light ( though i am going to check this a second time to be sure ) so there fore it is another problem.. I have read on the web about other toyotas and a fix involving bridging 2 of the h4 connectors with a resistor..however this only mentions a "spare connector on the passenger side" but with my HID kit both H4 connectors on BOTH SIDES were used by the kit...Now the kit works perfectly and i wouldnt ordinarily be bothered but our yearly MOT in the UK has changed so that now ALL warning lights must be in working order....Can anybody shine a light ( sorry about the pun..lol ) on what I should do.... Also...my rear fog light switch has given up the ghost and am in need of another working switch if anybody may have one?? not priced it up at toyota yet but no doubt will be silly expensive... And finally...she's been losing oil...now this started a little over a year ago..no oil on the ground and no major smoke out the back ( i.e. none more than usual ) .. the car went from never having to be topped up to having to put in 1/4 litre every 300 to 400 miles..anybody else had similair trouble..the head gaskets were changed 5 years ago although the rear rocker cover leaks..but not enough to cause this loss..i was thinking maybe valve stem oil seals... ANyway that's enough for now..got the big cambelt change and waterpump change service coming up and she gets fresh oil every 6 months... Thanks in advance.. Oh and here is a picture of her after her last wax :D And one from the weekend when she made a new friend ;) a 52 year old Handley Page Victor K2 Bomber :D All the best Buzz Attachment 4029 Attachment 4030 |
Victory bomber as in James Bond and Thunderball?
Nice car, really like the color. Does the car have daytime running lights? If so, the running light system uses a resistor to lower the voltage and dim the lights. Check owners manual, blue bulb may be high beam which is wired to the daytime running light relay. Can you clarify the system you have now? The bulb actually moves? Do you have the HID system make and model? Under new MOT laws the car needs to have what lights on? Running lights and tail, or ? Rear fog light switch, do you mean rear defroster switch? If so try RockAuto Parts Catalog but expensive. Would assume switch was used on many models, might try auto salvage yards. Is the mileage quoted in km's? Suggest placing cardboard under engine overnight and check for signs of oil. Also run engine with cardboard and check. Plus check PVC system and valve. Typically if valve stem seals there is white smoke at cold start up. Seal leaking with age is common. Replacement can be done with heads on engine but is time consuming and tedious. |
Originally Posted by toyomoho
(Post 81913)
Victory bomber as in James Bond and Thunderball?
No...this is a Handley Page Victor bomber...you are thinking about the Avro Vulcan..of which we still have one flying XH558...look her up on google she's worth it :) Nice car, really like the color. Thanks..we are very fond of her :) Does the car have daytime running lights? If so, the running light system uses a resistor to lower the voltage and dim the lights. Check owners manual, blue bulb may be high beam which is wired to the daytime running light relay. No..it doesnt have daytime running lights..high beam warning light ( blue bulb ) worked fine until i fitted the hid kit Can you clarify the system you have now? The bulb actually moves? Do you have the HID system make and model? Afraid I dont have the make and model..will have to have a look around see if i kept the box...basically it's one bulb with a shroud..when you flick it to high beam from main beam it activates an electro magnet that moves the bulb giving a higher beam from the shrowd. I can take some pictures if it would help? Under new MOT laws the car needs to have what lights on? Running lights and tail, or ? No..you misunderstand..all lights are checked under MOT..the only ones not needed to work for a pass ( wierdly ) is the reverse light...the new law is to do with dashboard warning lights..not only must there be no engine, abs or airbag lights showing but all the tell tale lights must be working..hence when the lights are on full beam ( high beam ) the blue warning light on the left of the dash MUST be lit up...which mine doesnt since i fitted the HID's..it;s to do with voltage. Rear fog light switch, do you mean rear defroster switch? If so try RockAuto Parts Catalog but expensive. Would assume switch was used on many models, might try auto salvage yards. No i dont mean the defroster..actually i've just realised i dont think you have a rear fog light on american car specs..as i had to add one on an old corvette and fit a rear fog light to get it to pass a roadworthiness test so i guess you can disregard this part of my post. Is the mileage quoted in km's? No miles Suggest placing cardboard under engine overnight and check for signs of oil. Also run engine with cardboard and check. Plus check PVC system and valve. Please explain how to test the pcv system and valvce and where i may find it on the 1mzfe engine....done the running the car with cardboard underneath..also left cardboard overnight..thought the engine does have some leaks nothing major enough to hit the cardboard..mostly its burnt off on the exhaust but like i said these have been there in all the years i've owned the car.... Typically if valve stem seals there is white smoke at cold start up. Seal leaking with age is common. Replacement can be done with heads on engine but is time consuming and tedious. Never a huge amount of smoke at startup...certainly not enough to warrant any particular worry...seems the same as it has ever been...it's probs cheap[er to just keep on topping up with oil and keep an eye on it..she never overheats..my only worry is the emissions test for the MOT Thanks for the response...I've answered in the quote of your reply :) Buzz |
Always like those swept back winged large bombers, more class!
If no daytime running lights then there is no resistor on stock headlight system. The aftermarket HID system may have a resistor called a ballast. Does the system use a relay or does it does it wire directly to the bulb wiring? It could be the way the HID is wired in effecting the high beam indicator. A word on the headlight system wiring. When the light control switch on the steering console is turned on, a relay is powered. This relay sends 12v DC power to the R and LH headlight fuses then to the lights. The actually selection of low/high beam is done by the control switch selecting which bulb filament to ground to chassis. Grounding the bulb filament completes the electrical circuit to power the bulb. The high beam ground wire colors are red/blue, low beam red/black. The high beam indicator light wires to the high beam ground wire via a junction box located inside car, passengers side perhaps behind the kick panel. I find the the schematic high beam indicator wiring confusing but typically it is wired parallel to one of the high beam filaments. When the high beam filament is grounded at the control switch to complete the circuit and the high beam indicator light grounded. US cars have not rear fog light. About 1qt per 1200-1600 miles. You sure no leaks? This would be high for 130K miles. Typically if valve guide seals, the smoke gets worse of time. Only suggestion on passing MIT test is to have car warmed up before hand. If you get a printout of detailed emission keep track of the various gas PPM versus the upper or lower acceptable limits. If too much burned oil passes through the converter, over time it will poison it and no longer function as designed. The result being gas readings will change towards the acceptable limits. |
Originally Posted by toyomoho
(Post 81985)
Always like those swept back winged large bombers, more class!
If no daytime running lights then there is no resistor on stock headlight system. The aftermarket HID system may have a resistor called a ballast. Does the system use a relay or does it does it wire directly to the bulb wiring? It could be the way the HID is wired in effecting the high beam indicator. A word on the headlight system wiring. When the light control switch on the steering console is turned on, a relay is powered. This relay sends 12v DC power to the R and LH headlight fuses then to the lights. The actually selection of low/high beam is done by the control switch selecting which bulb filament to ground to chassis. Grounding the bulb filament completes the electrical circuit to power the bulb. The high beam ground wire colors are red/blue, low beam red/black. The high beam indicator light wires to the high beam ground wire via a junction box located inside car, passengers side perhaps behind the kick panel. I find the the schematic high beam indicator wiring confusing but typically it is wired parallel to one of the high beam filaments. When the high beam filament is grounded at the control switch to complete the circuit and the high beam indicator light grounded. US cars have not rear fog light. About 1qt per 1200-1600 miles. You sure no leaks? This would be high for 130K miles. Typically if valve guide seals, the smoke gets worse of time. Only suggestion on passing MIT test is to have car warmed up before hand. If you get a printout of detailed emission keep track of the various gas PPM versus the upper or lower acceptable limits. If too much burned oil passes through the converter, over time it will poison it and no longer function as designed. The result being gas readings will change towards the acceptable limits. Thanks once again for the response...I will do some more investigating and see what I can come up with :) Buzz |
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