2000 amry, 2.2L, remove the engine without transaxle?
#1
2000 amry, 2.2L, remove the engine without transaxle?
I picked up a 2000 Camry LE with a bad engine for cheap. I just got a replacement engine that has lower miles and a warranty from a local salvage yard for a good deal. The instructions that I found online says to take the engine and transmission out the top as a unit. Is it possible to pull just the engine?
I would prefer to not mess with removing the axles and messing with all the transmission side of things. I have pulled just the engine from various GM front drive vehicles, 4 cylinder and V6's. Thanks and have a good one!
I would prefer to not mess with removing the axles and messing with all the transmission side of things. I have pulled just the engine from various GM front drive vehicles, 4 cylinder and V6's. Thanks and have a good one!
#2
..all the repair manuals say engine and gearbox out together
so the engine might be a 5S-FE ?.....is this a manual or automatic ?
if you have done engine out only of other front wheel drives and prefer to do that
yes its possible ....it will be the same type of job as on you other vehicle makes
the motor needs to move out into the engine bay then up to extract
tranny
check
if it has an interim shaft on the motor side into the differential on your model .... you may have to drop out its drive shaft
will the transmission drop down and away enough to take out the motor and not damage the drive shafts or gearbox seals
if you do go ahead with an engine only extraction please do a DIY write up for the forum
this is my road map for taking out a 4 cyl on a camry
https://www.camryforums.com/forum/di...ove-top-49721/
so the engine might be a 5S-FE ?.....is this a manual or automatic ?
if you have done engine out only of other front wheel drives and prefer to do that
yes its possible ....it will be the same type of job as on you other vehicle makes
the motor needs to move out into the engine bay then up to extract
tranny
check
if it has an interim shaft on the motor side into the differential on your model .... you may have to drop out its drive shaft
will the transmission drop down and away enough to take out the motor and not damage the drive shafts or gearbox seals
if you do go ahead with an engine only extraction please do a DIY write up for the forum
this is my road map for taking out a 4 cyl on a camry
https://www.camryforums.com/forum/di...ove-top-49721/
Last edited by dirty hands; 11-29-2015 at 03:24 PM.
#3
Thanks for the help. I haven't decided yet if I will pull them out as a unit or separate them in the car. If I do split them, I will do a write up to help anyone else looking at doing it. I started removing things: took out the radiator & fans, air box/duct, cruise control module, and disconnected and pulled back most of the harness.
The replacement engine has ~109K miles on it, but ran good. I want to do some work to the new/used engine before it goes in, here's what I have in mind, let me know if there is something else that you recommend:
The replacement engine has ~109K miles on it, but ran good. I want to do some work to the new/used engine before it goes in, here's what I have in mind, let me know if there is something else that you recommend:
- Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys & springs
- Water pump
- Crank & rod bearings, oil pan gasket
- New valve cover gasket, including sealing up the end cap and spark plug tubes
- Intake & exhaust manifold gaskets
- Tune up stuff: plugs, wires, PCV. I lucked out on the air filter as it has a K&N filter installed
#4
list looks good
makes less of a to do list
when you leave the head on to replace the bearings
I attached the torque specs
I do these if required
Rear engine seal
fit new welsh plugs ... where they are hard to get reach after engine is fitted.
clear out the oil pick up gauze while sump is off
makes less of a to do list
when you leave the head on to replace the bearings
I attached the torque specs
I do these if required
Rear engine seal
fit new welsh plugs ... where they are hard to get reach after engine is fitted.
clear out the oil pick up gauze while sump is off
Last edited by dirty hands; 11-30-2015 at 03:50 AM.
#5
Unless your doing a complete rebuild my suggestion is to just swap engines. Unless abused the engine should go 300K miles. Toyota used bearings specified by actual part clearances making their fit exceptional well.
A few suggestions:
If the engine has sat a long time the valve stem seals can harden and with this leak oil. You can replace them with the head still on.
Clean the EGR valve port which can build up carbon.
Remove the oil pump and change the oil pump shaft seal. This can leak with age and when it does allow a steady drip when the engine is running.
Remove the rear coolant drain plug from the block and flush out the engine block and head with water.
A few suggestions:
If the engine has sat a long time the valve stem seals can harden and with this leak oil. You can replace them with the head still on.
Clean the EGR valve port which can build up carbon.
Remove the oil pump and change the oil pump shaft seal. This can leak with age and when it does allow a steady drip when the engine is running.
Remove the rear coolant drain plug from the block and flush out the engine block and head with water.
#6
Thanks for the feedback! Thanks for the torque specs, Dirty hands!
This was a list of parts, I had also planned on cleaning the EGR and flushing the coolant passages. I was not aware of the oil pump shaft seal, I'll have to dig up one of those.
For the crank bearings, I simply don't know if the previous owners of the engine maintained it well or not. I have had a rod bearing fail in a Corolla at ~130K miles and the original engine in my Camry had a rod knock shy of 140K. Even with good bearing tolerances from Toyota, with 109K on the used engine and not knowing the history, I figured that I would play it safe and replace the bearings.
Pardon my ignorance, what is a welsh plug? Is that the same as a freeze plug?
This was a list of parts, I had also planned on cleaning the EGR and flushing the coolant passages. I was not aware of the oil pump shaft seal, I'll have to dig up one of those.
For the crank bearings, I simply don't know if the previous owners of the engine maintained it well or not. I have had a rod bearing fail in a Corolla at ~130K miles and the original engine in my Camry had a rod knock shy of 140K. Even with good bearing tolerances from Toyota, with 109K on the used engine and not knowing the history, I figured that I would play it safe and replace the bearings.
Pardon my ignorance, what is a welsh plug? Is that the same as a freeze plug?
#7
Last edited by dirty hands; 12-01-2015 at 12:03 PM.
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