the easy outs right? theres, not enough clearance to get in there. I think, if the socket I got fails I'll see about getting the set.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/irw53227.html

I have these, I'll check tonight and see if I have enough clearance, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952062000P


on the upside of this I do get to buy more tools right? socket, extractor, pressure tester, wife can't tell me no now can she! She hates driving my focus the camry is a Rolls Royce compared to it.

When I get the tool gets inthursday I'll post again.

Thank you again so much for your help here.

 

Well the craftsman bolts outs are too big, heres a pic of just how tight this thing is, the hole is only a little bigger than the bolt,you can see the top splines aremessed up, but its good and tight if I tap a socket into it.

 

impact socket worked! Parts are taking forever to get here, hopefully be here tomm, I really wanted to be done it this weekend.

 

Finally hell froze over and all parts are, so today I got the head off, as it turns out, I did have to remove the timing chain cover due to ONE misrable 10mm bolt that holds the timing chain guide to the head, I tried eveything possible, stubby,ratching,open end wrench I could and I could not get it out, SOB. There was just no room.

also in case anyone see this for future reference, get an E5 socket. The 2 line up studs on the head at the top and the 2 oil pan studs are E5's, this will make life easier for you. I got out the top 2 studs using vice grips (I know not professional at all), then back I decided to remove the stud in the block for the serp belt tensioner E10 socket as I did not have an E5, taking out the oil pan studs would have been easier with the right tool.

the timing cover bolts took so fanagling of the engine, I had to raise and lower the engine to get to some bolts.


So now the head and block are clean, I'm drilling monday, hoping to have done monday evening.

Next report Monday evening, if anyone needs pics or more details at anytime, now or 6 months from now, I am more than happy to help out.

Thanks.

 

Well today I began the process of drilling,tapping and helicoiling the holes. First one was good, took it slow to make sure I did it right. I used a thin long screw driver to punch the helicoil piece at the bottom off when complete. I did the second one and it wasn't so good, The father in law suggest I use a punch to get the notched piece off, but neither one of us though about the helicoil compressing and becoming smaller ID when installed, wala I damaged the helicoil. I tried using a 10x1.5 tap, no good, I then drilling it out using the 29/64th drill bit that came in the kit, got about 3 threads out, the rest are in the head still. Drill wasn't getting anymore out.

I then installed the remaining intake sidehelicoils (all exhasut side ones were ok and tight when being removed, intakes were all loose)

2 questions/

1.best way to remove the heli-coil, I'm thinking drill out to 29/64 w/cobalt bit then use supplied 11x1.5 tap and put in new coil?
2.best way to get notch pieces of helicoil out? just let bolt push it? there is room below the helicoil in the head as the helicoil does not bottom out in the block.

 

Have never did this am guessing at what to do.

I assume the heli-coil is made out stainless steel? If so, stainless with work harden if it gets hot or abraded too much.

Use a lube, if the drill stops cutting don't keep pushing. You don't want a dull drill rubbing on stainless, this works harden the material.

Colbalt should cut the material but it is not as flexable as the drill you just used. Don't put any side loads on the drill. Use a lube and if possible a controlled feed. Don't let the drill suck itself into the work, this may require a firm grip on the drill.

If you need to you can peck at the hole. Drill a little, withdraw, drill a little, etc. Be sure to have lube.

Don't have the drill RPM too high. For a 1/2 inch drill in stainless RPM should be around 1100. If too high the material will work harden.

The idea is for the sharp drill point to cut with a positive force on it (you pushing on the motor) and not just dwell on the material. If the drill point dulls the work will harden, resharpen the drill point or use another one. You don't want to just keep pushing harder.

If you think you need it, make a drill guide so that the drill is 90 degrees to the block. This can be as simple as a 2x4 with a hole in it.

For knocking off the tang, find a bolt that easily slides inside the installed helicoil without any binding on the sides. Then hit it with a hammer.

Try grease at the end of a Q-tip, etc to pull out the tang.

If you can't remove the broken tang use something to measure the hole depth and compare to the thread length of the bolt. There is typically some extra depth at the bottom of the hole, if so just leave it in.

 

Thanks, I think your right on the stainles steel, I did manage to get several threads out so far, now tommorow I will be on a mission for a new 29/64th cobalt bit. The bit that came w/the set had a few small chips and won't cut the heli coil, it was ok on the aluminum though.

 

Well I got my hands on a cobalt 29/64 bit $14 @ leonard jed (BTW they have everything tool related you will ever need), it made short work of that helicoil, I did filled the hole w/actual cutting fluid not WD40, drilled in short bursts, ran down the tap, then put in a new helicoil, I broke off and recovered all tangs using a thin long flathead screw driver and a magnet. I install all bolts and made sure they bottomed at the same height. Wife wanted to go to the mall so that was all the got done today. I'll be back on it Saturday.

 

Please keep use posted!

Other Toyota owners are having this same problem with threads pulling out and loose bolts. The Toyota dealer fix is to replace the block.

Unfortunately Toyota has not been forth coming in offering any other type of fix such as using threaded inserts. Dealers appear surprised when owners have this problem. This leaves the car owner on their own for a fix and thinking they are they only ones with the problem.

 

disasterous update.

put head on and began tightening bolts, the reach torque valve 58lbs, with almosy 2 washers worth of room left, tried to remove and 2 bolts stripped the bolts themselves.

called a machine shop of mine and he said he has seen this happen when using helicoils w/aluminum blocks. he said use timeserts ONLY, so now I am buying the timesert kit $400 more dollars YIKES!!!! plus he wants $200 to do it on site at my house, better safe than sorry, I can't afford to mess this up, a used engine cost 2-3K, a long block $2500, i fI can get out for about $1000 total I'm in good shape.