Finally a happy ending, My machine shop man came by Saturday and did all 10 bolts holes, He drove 50 miles was here for 4 hours (plus travel) and only charged $200, what a deal!!! Good Man, Spindler Machine.

So after they were all done, I put the head on the rear (intake) bolts went in easy, fronts were real tight, I stopped and called him, he suggested trying to run them down and remove to recheck the threads, I ran them down w/3/8 hand ratchet, went down tight but good, pulled out and bolts looked good, no shiny spots. He then said run them down until the bolts bottoms by hand then torque in sequence begining @ 20ftlbs, I did this and he wanted to make sure as we increased the torque degree was the same, it was, bolts went in good, torqued to 58 ftlbs plus 90 degrees. Timing the engine and rechecked it 10 times,did the timing chain and cover, put on the belt tensioner (btw, it is 100 times easier to install if the motor mount (lower) is removed and you raise the engine.) Father is law came out and said "so all the bolts tight", then my brain started thinking, sure enough I left the chain tensioner guide bolts loose, it all came back apart, fun huh. Then I tightened it and put it all together AGAIN. I was able to put every bolt back and had none left over, power steering pump was fun going on (at the back of the pump mounting there are 2 threaded bushings where the bolts goes in use a bolt, nut and washer and collapse them all the way, it makes life much easier, also when doing the ps pump bolts lower the engine all the way until the pan is touching the subframe),
so then I did the rest, manifolds (to get exhaust manifold to line up, it was tricky, I had to remove lower bracket, 4 12mm bolts under car, 2 for bracket to body,2 for u-clamp)
, air box, hoses, mounts etc. Added fluids and fired it up after cycling the key a few times, started up great.

question
I had one left over hose on the throttle body,goes from rear firewall side of TB and it has a small box in the middle of it, I am fairly sure this is idle air bypass and found a spot on the intake manifold (on back side) it goes to and just kinda hangs out, doesn't connect to anything, sound right?

Problems I will resolve
PS Pump return hose leaking probally from all my fighting with the PS Pump prior to correcting bushings.

also have code 0012 P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1), I started a thread on the ecm electronics forum for this, I seen some people say replace the VVT controller or even get a updated chain tensioner

Anyway if anyone needs help with this at anytime or questions about this kind of repair, even years from now feel free to PM me.

FOR SALE
Timesert Kit 11110, only 2 inserts make offer, if not it will head to ebay
Helicoil Kit, 1130 and 5 inserts make offer, if not it will head to ebay

 

Great Job!!!!

Even with the problems you saved yourself a ton of money by going this route instead of another block. Why Toyota has not owned up to this issue is unknown.

Thanks for the info on Time-Sert versus Helicoil will pass this along. Suggest you post your findings on sites such as Toyotanation where owners are experiencing the same problem and looking at a block replacement.

The hose to the little box was most likely for the MAP sensor, the box should have wires running to it. The engine is not going to run very well without this connected.

I will check out that P0012 code and see if there is any specific info.

Again great Job and thanks for keeping us up to date. There are other owners in same position with this engine who will be glad to have this info gained by your efforts.

 

gotta love ebay, remember that hose that I wasn't sure about, heres a pic of it, just as I was thinking and how I put it back.

ck out the pic
http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/...0,0,0&format=0

 

You can't install a heliocoil in an aluminum block, it won't allow bolt to tighten properly. To prevent drilling & installing time sert I used longer studs in place of headbolts from A R P(performance parts place) in the 3 stripped holes There's still plenty threads left in the block if you use a longer bolt to retorque the head. I've done this once & know of another person that had done this w/no probs later. Make sure if you get the studs from ARP that you use locktite to install the stud into the engine block.

 

thanks guys for the supports.

 

In most severe cases they all sell a set of sockets that can be motivated onto various size secure leads. The electrical sockets have tooth to hold the head for elimination.