5SFE Valve Seal Questions
Hi all, XV30 CE with the 2.2?L 5SFE.
tapping noise from the engine and oil smoke out the exhaust. Tapping started multiple months prior to the smoke. Best guess right now is something in the valve train (hoping just the seals). Will be performing compression test to help determine the problem.
If I end up replacing valve seals, are there other wear components in there that I should be replacing for preventative measures while I have the valve cover off? Also looks like I have to take the timing belt partially off for this. Should I just replace the timing belt while I’m in there?
Car is 23 years old with 130k or so. Planning on DIY repairs unless it would require taking the head off.
tapping noise from the engine and oil smoke out the exhaust. Tapping started multiple months prior to the smoke. Best guess right now is something in the valve train (hoping just the seals). Will be performing compression test to help determine the problem.
If I end up replacing valve seals, are there other wear components in there that I should be replacing for preventative measures while I have the valve cover off? Also looks like I have to take the timing belt partially off for this. Should I just replace the timing belt while I’m in there?
Car is 23 years old with 130k or so. Planning on DIY repairs unless it would require taking the head off.
Some valve train and injector noise is common.
Might take of the valve cover and take a look as easy enough. The valve adjustment uses shims which typically don't get out of adjustment.
What kind of smoke and when? If after the engine has sat for a time and white smoke at start up it can be the valve stem seals. As they age they harden and leak. Replacing the valve stem seals requires removing the valve springs which unless measures are taken will drop the valve into the cylinder.
One can remove they cylinder head. The other route is to use compressed air or rope inside the cylinder to hold the valve in place. All methods will be time consuming the only difference is one involves removing the head.
As to wear parts. You can check valve clearance and replace a shim if required. Unless wanting to rebuild the cylinder head its not worth replacing parts plus beyond seals they just don't wear out.
If changing the timing belt, change the belt idler and water pump. Inspect the cam and crankshaft oil seals for leaking. Might also change the oil pump drive shaft seal which can start to leak with age. The water and oil pump are driven by the timing belt. Plus other belts. The brushes in the alternator are easily replaceable as they do wear out.
YouTube and other websites have videos of changing the belt and perhaps even changing the seals with head still on the engine. Have done this task and it preferable to removing the head but takes a LOT of time labor wise and few special tools you can buy or build yourself.
Might take of the valve cover and take a look as easy enough. The valve adjustment uses shims which typically don't get out of adjustment.
What kind of smoke and when? If after the engine has sat for a time and white smoke at start up it can be the valve stem seals. As they age they harden and leak. Replacing the valve stem seals requires removing the valve springs which unless measures are taken will drop the valve into the cylinder.
One can remove they cylinder head. The other route is to use compressed air or rope inside the cylinder to hold the valve in place. All methods will be time consuming the only difference is one involves removing the head.
As to wear parts. You can check valve clearance and replace a shim if required. Unless wanting to rebuild the cylinder head its not worth replacing parts plus beyond seals they just don't wear out.
If changing the timing belt, change the belt idler and water pump. Inspect the cam and crankshaft oil seals for leaking. Might also change the oil pump drive shaft seal which can start to leak with age. The water and oil pump are driven by the timing belt. Plus other belts. The brushes in the alternator are easily replaceable as they do wear out.
YouTube and other websites have videos of changing the belt and perhaps even changing the seals with head still on the engine. Have done this task and it preferable to removing the head but takes a LOT of time labor wise and few special tools you can buy or build yourself.
YouTube and other websites have videos of changing the belt and perhaps even changing the seals with head still on the engine. Have done this task and it preferable to removing the head but takes a LOT of time labor wise and few special tools you can buy or build yourself.
Havent been around the car for a few months and did not drive it with the smoke. Just had it running in the driveway. Will check it out when I’m home in a few days. Planning on checking for smoke after engine braking and all that.
I have absolutely 0 experience working on engines so this will all be a learning experience. Absolutely not going to try and remove the head. Valve cover is as far as I’m willing to go.
I’ve been running a higher viscosity oil in it for the last few months to try to eliminate the tapping noise coming from the engine. No luck. Have not looked into the PVC system at all. Will try to update with pictures when I see the car in a few days
just read some other threads on the PCV system. Definitely going to look into that. Thanks for the heads up on that. Lot of people described similar symptoms to my car and it was the PCV valve being clogged
Read up on how the tube is installed as some years had a pressed in tube and others were screwed in. Oil in the tube is common enough thus YouTube should have video's on removing the tool. Take note of any tools required. If not done correctly the tube can be damaged.
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