Extremelly loss of power on 3gen 1996 5SFE
 

Hello friends, I'm Ronaldo from Brazil, and how I live in a 3rd world country, theres no much hope for cars like mine here.

My problem Is, I've had the entire engine Rebuild.
After my sister didn't realize the temperature was getting high because of a leak in the hose that goes to the internal heating.
After all this work my motor runs near to normal something like 200KM (yes 2 hundreds), but litle time later, I've had one fuel pump issue, so i changed it, and the car never more runs correctly.

I've already tryed a lot of things.
Changed
sparks
Sparks plugs
rotor and distributor cap;
fuel line regulator (the first One on the income of the flute)
fuel line press regulator (the end of flute)
Fuel filter
Changed again the fuel pump
send the fuel injector to a machine clear.
Recheked the timing.
Checked the Vaccum line a lot of times, (because the rebuilder didn't set it right)
Cleaned the IAC
Cleaned the EGR.

The major problem now is, when I start the engine, it runs near to normal in idle, BUt when the temperature increases to the normal temperature, the car turns really weak.
So weak that if I turn the A/C on the engines dies.
And even when cold, if i go full gas pedal, it won't pass 5k RPM, and it goes Up really slow.
I'm not using the car, BUt it's to sad to see my fathers old ride stoped there.

And I really love this car.

Can anybody help me with this, any idea?

Saudações

Did the engine run OK prior to the overheating and engine work?

You imply the engine now runs almost normal (meaning has power) when its heating up. However when at normal operating temperatures it has no power. Is this statement correct?

A few things to check off hand.

Ignition coil (if it has one). Check for cracks arcing, etc.

Spark plug wires including coil wire (if external coil).

The engine uses a engine coolant system temp sensor called the Engine Temperature Coolant (ETC) sensor. This sensor tells the engine the coolant temp. If bad it can cause issues. Location is on the coolant return manifold whose hose goes to the top of the radiator. The sensor has two wires. .

If available, find something called cold spray or "freeze." A spray on chemical that cools things down. See link below:

https://www.google.com/search?q=free...hrome&ie=UTF-8

If the engine runs normally when warming up and not when hot. Perhaps a sensor is bad. The cold spray can be used to test for bad sensors by cooling them down. If the engine problem goes away, that sensor is the problems.

Determine if the engine has mechanical fuel pressure regulator. This may be a closed metal can having a diaphragm inside. The regulator connecting to a vacuum hose that is turned on/off by a electric valve. If the engine has such an item, make sure the system is working OK.

You can install a fuel pressure gauge by tapping off the banjo fitting on the can fuel filter in the engine compartment. Then check pressure as engine heats up.

Did the engine run OK prior to the overheating and engine work?
I would say that is near to normal.

You imply the engine now runs almost normal (meaning has power) when its heating up. However when at normal operating temperatures it has no power. Is this statement correct?
This is correct


A few things to check off hand.

Ignition coil (if it has one). Check for cracks arcing, etc.
I Will check IT

Spark plug wires including coil wire (if external coil).
All of then i've already changed

The engine uses a engine coolant system temp sensor called the Engine Temperature Coolant (ETC) sensor. This sensor tells the engine the coolant temp. If bad it can cause issues. Location is on the coolant return manifold whose hose goes to the top of the radiator. The sensor has two wires. .
I will check this too, But there's no this freze here in brazil.

If available, find something called cold spray or "freeze." A spray on chemical that cools things down. See link below:

https://www.google.com/search?q=free...hrome&ie=UTF-8

If the engine runs normally when warming up and not when hot. Perhaps a sensor is bad. The cold spray can be used to test for bad sensors by cooling them down. If the engine problem goes away, that sensor is the problems.

Determine if the engine has mechanical fuel pressure regulator. This may be a closed metal can having a diaphragm inside. The regulator connecting to a vacuum hose that is turned on/off by a electric valve. If the engine has such an item, make sure the system is working OK.
My 5sfe has this fuel pressure regulator, i've already replaced it. Even that one in the beggining of the flute.

You can install a fuel pressure gauge by tapping off the banjo fitting on the can fuel filter in the engine compartment. Then check pressure as engine heats up.
I will lend one pressure gauge from my mecanical, and try it too.

One new question, I was loking my transmission oil level, and it's very high when the car is turned off. This can be something bad?

Thanks
@toyomoho
I will update when i have some feedback.

If the engine overheated the head gasket can fail. Is the coolant system level dropping? Can check cylinder compression and do a "block test" for exhaust gases in the coolant..

The ETC sensor measures coolant temp. Even if outside air temps are hot, the coolant still changes temp from room temp to engine operating temp. The computer changes the engines fuel ratio with this change in coolant temp.

To check trans fluid level. Let the trans fluid heat up to operating temp by driving. With engine running, move the shift lever from Park to Low and back to Park. Then check trans fluid level engine running.

The trans fluid level will appear high if checking with engine off. Make sure the dipstick is not picking up trans fluid on the inside of the dipstick tube and giving false readings.