1998 Camry Overheating
#1
05-01-2018, 08:23 PM
1998 Camry Overheating
i have a 1998 Camry 2.2L, I have replaced the thermostat, coolant temp sensor and sending unit, radiator, water pump and fans.. the gauge still shows that the car is redlining, but I can’t find the source.. help please!!
#2
05-02-2018, 11:14 AM
Is the engine really over heating?
Is it possible for the temp gauge system to be defective?
Check radiator fan operation.
If the car has A/C, engine running turn it on. Watch the A/C compressor. When the A/C clutch engages (it will cycle on/off) to operate the compressor, the fans should also turn on/off.
Find the wiring plug to the temp switch on the bottom of the radiator. The plug should be on one side or the other of the radiator. Unplug it and turn ign switch on, the fans should now operate.
Obtain a thermometer. Remove radiator cap (engine cold). Start engine and let coolant warm up. Check coolant temp with thermometer.
The fans will turn on at a coolant temp of 199F.
A coolant in system in good order will keep the coolant temp below boiling at engine idle with cap off. The fans will cycle on/off to cool down the coolant. The result being the temp gauge should not move from its normal position (needle just below midpoint on gauge).
If the coolant temp goes above 199F and the fans don't turn on there is a problem.
If the fans work but the actual coolant temp just keeps rising towards boiling temp, there is a problem.
If the coolant temp is normal (around 200ish) and the gauge needle is now into the red. There is problem with the gauge or sensor.
Use an ohm meter to check the coolant temp sensor for the temp gauge. At 122F the resistance should be 160-240 ohm. At 248F should be 17.1-21.2 ohm. You can interpret the ohm reading for temps between 122F and 248F.
When you changed all the coolant items did you purge the coolant system of air? This by squeezing the upper/lower radiator hoses to push the air out. It is possible to have air in the coolant system causing over heating.
Is it possible for the temp gauge system to be defective?
Check radiator fan operation.
If the car has A/C, engine running turn it on. Watch the A/C compressor. When the A/C clutch engages (it will cycle on/off) to operate the compressor, the fans should also turn on/off.
Find the wiring plug to the temp switch on the bottom of the radiator. The plug should be on one side or the other of the radiator. Unplug it and turn ign switch on, the fans should now operate.
Obtain a thermometer. Remove radiator cap (engine cold). Start engine and let coolant warm up. Check coolant temp with thermometer.
The fans will turn on at a coolant temp of 199F.
A coolant in system in good order will keep the coolant temp below boiling at engine idle with cap off. The fans will cycle on/off to cool down the coolant. The result being the temp gauge should not move from its normal position (needle just below midpoint on gauge).
If the coolant temp goes above 199F and the fans don't turn on there is a problem.
If the fans work but the actual coolant temp just keeps rising towards boiling temp, there is a problem.
If the coolant temp is normal (around 200ish) and the gauge needle is now into the red. There is problem with the gauge or sensor.
Use an ohm meter to check the coolant temp sensor for the temp gauge. At 122F the resistance should be 160-240 ohm. At 248F should be 17.1-21.2 ohm. You can interpret the ohm reading for temps between 122F and 248F.
When you changed all the coolant items did you purge the coolant system of air? This by squeezing the upper/lower radiator hoses to push the air out. It is possible to have air in the coolant system causing over heating.
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