2000 Camry LE 10 Amp Gauge Fuse Randomly Blows
#1
06-24-2017, 04:51 PM
2000 Camry LE 10 Amp Gauge Fuse Randomly Blows
Hi All,
I have been researching this issue for a while and found the common causes for this overloaded Gauge Fuse in my 2000 Toyota Camry LE. However, I struggled to solve this issue as it is very random. Most common this occurs every week or so over the past month and a half where I start the car and all of a sudden the dash is dead, power windows don't work, alternator stops charging, etc. The other way I have been able to get the fuse to blow is by having the car ignition in the on position, but not started/running and shifting the gear selector from "P","R","N","D" (blown here),"2","L" (blown here).
Initially back about two months ago when I first ran into this I searched the web and found the common cause of the truck wire harness by the driver side trunk hinge and I found a wire that had an exposed wire. I wrapped this wire back up with electrical tape with several layers and thought that might have been the cause. However, about a week later the same thing happened when starting the car.
Since this issue is so random, how do you recommend to test this or has anyone had this same issue (only blowing the fuse when starting or when the car is not running but manually shifting and having the fuse blow in "Drive" or "Low"? From other research online, it looks like the other common cause if the Neutral Saftey Switch. If anyone can help point me in the best direction to solve this, I would appreciate it. Since it is random and seldom to blow it has been challenging to figure out.
Thanks,
Paul
2000 Toyota Camry LE
I have been researching this issue for a while and found the common causes for this overloaded Gauge Fuse in my 2000 Toyota Camry LE. However, I struggled to solve this issue as it is very random. Most common this occurs every week or so over the past month and a half where I start the car and all of a sudden the dash is dead, power windows don't work, alternator stops charging, etc. The other way I have been able to get the fuse to blow is by having the car ignition in the on position, but not started/running and shifting the gear selector from "P","R","N","D" (blown here),"2","L" (blown here).
Initially back about two months ago when I first ran into this I searched the web and found the common cause of the truck wire harness by the driver side trunk hinge and I found a wire that had an exposed wire. I wrapped this wire back up with electrical tape with several layers and thought that might have been the cause. However, about a week later the same thing happened when starting the car.
Since this issue is so random, how do you recommend to test this or has anyone had this same issue (only blowing the fuse when starting or when the car is not running but manually shifting and having the fuse blow in "Drive" or "Low"? From other research online, it looks like the other common cause if the Neutral Saftey Switch. If anyone can help point me in the best direction to solve this, I would appreciate it. Since it is random and seldom to blow it has been challenging to figure out.
Thanks,
Paul
2000 Toyota Camry LE
#2
06-24-2017, 06:44 PM
Your stating if the engine is running, moving the shifter never results in a blown fuse?
Trunk wiring (backup lights) or Park/Neutral switch are the common issues.
The backup lights are turned on when shifting to R.
If there is an issue with the Park/Neutral switch the problem will also occur when moving the shifter.
Remove drivers side trunk liner and examine ALL wiring in trunk.
The switch is more tricky as you need to take it apart to check for lose metal and it's not met to take apart. Or pickup one from a salvage yard.
Any correlation between fuse and using the brakes?
Trunk wiring (backup lights) or Park/Neutral switch are the common issues.
The backup lights are turned on when shifting to R.
If there is an issue with the Park/Neutral switch the problem will also occur when moving the shifter.
Remove drivers side trunk liner and examine ALL wiring in trunk.
The switch is more tricky as you need to take it apart to check for lose metal and it's not met to take apart. Or pickup one from a salvage yard.
Any correlation between fuse and using the brakes?
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