I'm trying to ascertain whether or not I have a blown head gasket/cracked head....

My 2.2 has $150K miles on it, but I've only had it one year. There is no water/murkiness in the oil that I can see, but one of the ingition wires has been collecting condensation, and on occasions the engine idles very poorly. All of a sudden, it is undrivable. I have been losing engine coolant for some time.... On occasions, I have also seen the "white smoke" coming from the exhaust....

The engine has new plugs and wires, and runs great when it isn't running crappy (or not running at all).

There is looking like this rookie wrencher's worst nightmare. Perhaps there is something else that should be investigated? Is there some easy way to ascertain what the problem is (maybe even fairly cheaply)?

 

Have you pulled the plugs and compared electrodes with each other? If a blown head gasket 1 or 2 plugs may have a different appearance.

When does the white smoke occur, cold starts, hot engine, etc. Smell the smoke, coolant tends to be sweet, engine oil smells like oil. It does happen the valve stem seals on this engine fail with age. The result is white oil smoke at cold start up that gets progressively worse over time.

Suggest you carefully look at all the coolant system hoses, radiator upper and lower tanks, coolant overflow tank, engine, water pump. Check for signs of coolant from the heater core on the carpet under the drivers side of dash.

A coolant line could be failing but not enough to burst at this time, the upper radiator tank being plastic tends to crack causing at first hairline the more major ones. Look for coolant on top of the lower plastic air shield between the bottom of radiator and chassis. The overflow tank can also start to leak as the plastic cracks.

Look around the engine including rear as best you can for coolant leaking from where the head mates to the block and from the freeze plugs.

To check for water pump leaks look between the lower part of the plastic timing cover and engine for signs of coolant.

The standard methods for checking for a leaking head gasket are a pressure test and block test. The pressure test uses a hand air pump connected to radiator cap port then system pressured to normal operating pressure. The radiator cap would have a psi listed, something around 13 psi. This test would help find any leaks as the coolant system would be under pressure yet engine cold to allow better examination without getting burned. Autoshops would have kits for sale.

The block test checks for exhaust gases in the coolant. A kit can be purchased at many auto parts stores for around $50. If gases are present the fluid used in the test will change color.

The internet would have more info these tests.

The rough running could be an ign problem. Bad cap and rotor, failed ign coil, check the coil body for cracking.

The block test if positive means the head gasket is leaking. The pressure test requires more investigation as many areas of the cooling system could have a leak.

If the problem is a head gasket and you are able to work on engine, the repair is not complicated. Do suggest you read up on the procedures first at there are a few areas needing more attention then others. If going this route obtain some kind of service info, Haynes manuals are the cheapest at around $20 and do a pretty good job, or try your library.

In conclusion, the problem may well be a blown head gasket, but best not to assume this now as too many other areas to check. A bad head gasket on this engine tends to cause issues with overheating, the engine temp gets into the red.

 

Your help is greatly appreciated.

- The plugs, which are new, were more black than tan/grey.
- - I've found no leaking coolant underneath the vehicle, but it is going somewhere; I previously replaced the coolant reservoir, thinking that might be the problem, but nope.... Family does NOT confirm ever seeing white smoke, so that may or may not be a sympton here...
- There has been no apparent overheating of the engine to-date (I do plan to check the radiator fans as soon as it gets warmer, to ensure they are working properly).
- The engine WAS running too rough to even idle or drive, just a day after a series of normal 10 miles drives.
- Ther is still some condensation gathering around the spark plug wire in the #2 (2nd from right) hole.

I rough-idled the car for about 10 minutes to clear up any condensation, and cleaned the electrodes real good. Now it cranks right up, and is running fine again. The condensation (blow-by?), plug fouling, and disappearing coolant are the main concerns I see at present....

The plan, I suppose, is to just use the vehicle as a "local" driver only, to check the coolant level every week (and monitor usage), and pull the plugs every month to check status. If the coolant drain continues, I'll have a block test and/or pressure test done. In the meantime, as long as the car doesn't overheat....

What do you think?

 

Could be the plugs are black because of the misfire.

Try to correlate the rough running with weather, the engine runs rough in rain or under high moisture conditions. View the ign system in the dark and check for a blue glow around them indicating leaky ignition electrical insulation.

Smell and feel the condensation, coolant smells sweet and has a slippery feel.

The engines blow-by system is closed. Any engine blow-by gets sucked into the engine to be burned. Condensation might just be a change in weather and just condensed air moisture.

Coolant loss problems don’t go away on there on. Do a complete check of the system, run your hands over all coolant hoses (engine cold) and feel for coolant. Sometimes a coolant line is leaking but has not totally failed, or a hose clamp is loose. Some hoses are buried and hard to see.

If the coolant loss is small, coolant may be evaporating on contact with the hot engine parts instead of dripping to the ground.

To partially test the radiator fans, turn on the AC, the fans should cycle on and off with the AC compressor turning on and off.

A concern would be the loss of coolant and not knowing why. One issue with coolant leaks is they can get worse. Had vehicles lose coolant but knew why and as such knew the loss rate would stay the same. Others vehicles lost coolant over time and one day a leaky hose burst.

Most coolant leaks can be found by inspection, either when the engine is cold and felling around or when hot where the system is pressured due to the expanded water and any leak will be under pressure.

Wear eye protection if inspecting hoses when engine is hot as failing hoses can burst when moved and spray out hot coolant.

For head gasket issues the block test works best.

 

Well, after a week plus of positive driving experience, the problem came back; the engine idles so rough it can't even be driven 100 feet. But there is some more info I've gleaned....

Coolant has indeed very slowly continued to disappear, and there are no external indications about where it is going to; internally, the oil still looks good (not milky) as well. However, the "condensation" on the 2nd spark plug wire, and 2nd wire alone, has returned. As you've suggested, it both has a sweet scent and is a little bit slick. So I suspect it is coolant in there on top of the spark plug....

There is no "condensation" in any of the other spark plug holes, just that 2nd hole from the right. I suspect that once I clean out the hole and dry it out, the engine will probably run fine again (at least temporarily).

I've tried several auto parts stores. but haven't found a block test yet. Depending upon what you say, that is my next step.

Does this new info lead you you to suspect anything in particular, from what has been discussed previously? Head gasket, or something else?

 

Depending on year of engine the spark plug tubes either screw or press into the cylinder head with a gasket sealer used between mating surfaces.

A coolant leak in this area would be unusual, an engine oil leak at the tube/head seal location is not uncommon. Try to determine if the substance on the plug is oil or coolant.

Keep in mind the quantity of coolant needed to top of the system when compared to what you see on the plug. The tube is sealed at the top with the plug wire connector cover, as such would you expect more coolant in the tube compared to what you are adding?

You could have two problems, a coolant leak and something else with the No 2 plug wire.

A block test kit costs $25-$50. Should be available on the internet under block test or try Ebay.

NAPA stores should stock them or be able to order one. NAPA P/N 700-1006, cost $50.

A head gasket can fail without having coolant in the engine oil.

A head gasket issue can be difficult to diagnosis without doing some kind of test. Signs of a bad head gasket can be illusive.

The coolant system being pressured when engine hot forces coolant into the cylinder(s) when engine is off, the result can be higher then normal condensation out the exhaust at cold start up. This could be large plumes or just some water spitting out.

Leaking valve seals will also cause white smoke at cold start up. Smell the smoke to determine if it has an oil or sweet smell.

If hot exhaust gases from a bad gasket are leaking into the coolant system this can effect the coolant system ability work properly and the result is rapid overheating of the engine.

If the radiator cap is off (engine cold) and engine warmed up then revved, exhaust gases in the coolant can force it back out the radiator fill port. Or there could be air bubbles in the coolant.

You can pressure test the radiator engine cold using a test set and check for a pressure bleed down. This indicates a leak, where?

Or pressurize system to a low pressure and start engine. If exhaust gases are leaking into the coolant system the pressure might increase more quickly then normal.

Every one has their favorite method. I prefer the block test for possible head gasket issues as if preformed correctly this is a yes/no test. Fully follow the instructions and be patient in doing the test to make sure it is accurate. If the chemical used in the test changes color the head gasket is leaking. The internet may have posts on how to conduct the test.

If you start revving the engine during the test it is possible to force coolant into the chemical chamber which is not good, thue take your time. A test should take 10-15 minutes with engine warmed up. Warm up the engine with radiator cap off.

This engine typically does not experience head gasket failure unless overheated into the red for more then brief period of time or hot rodded.

 

I'm picking up the block test tonight; $43 at NAPA....

The 2.2 engine is a 1995 model, and it is not oil in the spark plug tube. Combined with the definite coolant leak somewhere, the slightly sweet smell of the liquid leads me to think it is coolant in there (what else could it be?). After I get the liquid/condensation out, hoefully I will be able to get the engine fired up (i.e. normal running) and can complete the block test.

I bought the car a year ago, and do not know if it was mistreated in the past. According to my gauges, the engine has not been overheating recently, however.

Trust me, I don't want this to be a head gasket issue. I just don't know what else might be allowing a non-oil liquid to gather into that spark plug tube in sufficnet quantities to mess up the igniting process with that plug....

Will let you all know what happens next....

 

Block test was just completed, and it does reveal a cumbustion leak! A little cleaning up of the fouled plug, and it idles again just fine for the moment....

I tried to isolate the leak to one cylinder or another, but those tests were inconclusive.... As far as antifreeze getting onto the spark plug and causing ignition issues, it definitely is just the one cylinder having the problem. By the way, white smoke is occurring when the engine is getting warmed up (it is sweet smelling, not oily); after it is warmed up, you get some fluid (looks like water) directly out the back of the exhaust pipe....

So I have either a head gasket issue or a cracked head or block. Not being one to make a big problem bigger, but.... Does anybody have any experience with either Blue Devil or Bars Leak gasket/coolant sealant products? I've read a little about both products, and the jury is out, to say the least. I'm tempted to try one or the other; what do you think?

By the way, I've read that head gasket problems can be caused by improper torquing of the head onto the block; that may have occurred on this engine, which was put into the car less than a year ago.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

Some issues that can cause head gasket failure after replacement are torque, use of new gasket on warped head, failure to clean the mating surfaces properly, using a head gasket sealer where none is specified or the wrong kind.

If the block test was positive then there is leak.

Seldom use sealants like Bars Leak, etc unless a pin hole leak in a radiator, then only use a teaspoon.

Some users swear by these products others have had less favorable results. Suggest if going this route to get a specific product designed for head gasket issues (not radiator). Might bypass the heater core as these material can clog things up.

Use as directed and don't use more product then recommended.

Anti-freeze going through the exhaust can poison the emissions converter and cause it to fail. It is the ethyl-glycol chemical in the coolant.

If temps are above freezing in your area and no luck with these products but still want to drive the car, might completely drain the system, flush it then add distilled water and an anti-corrosion chemical. This chemical will prevent cooling system rust and corrosion but has no anti-freeze properties. Auto parts stores and the auto parts section of a department sells these product. Check in the section where the antifreeze is. Use the minimal amount as listed in the directions.

 

I added some K&W Head Gasket and Block repair liquid to the radiator tonight, following the directions except for turning on the heater. Since I know where the leak is (cracked head, in my opinion), I bypassed the heater core as you suggested.

When the engine cools down, I'll top off the radiator fluid and reexamine the previously fouled plug area, cleaning it out one more time.

I'll provide an update in 2-3 weeks, as I don't plan on giving any feedback of the 24 hour variety. We'll see what happens and let you know....