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95 Camry axle removal
Have a 95 Camry am having difficulty removing passenger side axle. Outer part of axle is already removed I can’t get bearing out
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Bearing out of housing?
Did you remove the circlip and bolt on housing? If so, the bearing may be rusted to the housing. A number of related topic threads below. |
Yes circlip is removed, bolt out. I tried slide hammer not even budging
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The bearing can be EXTREMELY difficult to get out of the housing!!!
The outer race and mount now being fused together by rust. A common problem with removing this bearing. The bearing and mount should normally be an easy slide fit. A few things to try. If having a real torch, heat the bearing mount hot. Then use a slide hammer. Or apply penetrating fluid (not WD-40) and wait for it to possible work. If possible, wedge something between the axle CV joint body and housing to apply axle force to the bearing. Some have used a screw type ball joint remover. Then pound away on the axle or use the slide hammer. All while having someone hit the mount with a hammer. A better option is to use an air or electric hammer, chisel, rivet gun on the mount. If getting any movement of the bearing, apply more penetrating fluid. If no torch, the best option is to remove the mount and axle to allow working on the unit at the bench. This is often done. Even here it can be challenging to get the bearing out. At this point would consider a press or finding someone with a torch. Or taking it to a machine shop as some have had to do. Personally would heat the mount. Or remove it and use a press. It is possible to get the bearing out less the outer race. Thus consider this could happen. There are host of posts video's on the internet on the subject of removing the Camry passengers side axle bearing. Most involve pounding away. Never had much luck pounding. |
I have a 1995 Camry LE and has 203000. How many miles on car and how did you know the bearings were going? Just in case mine go. Thank you.
Oh had to remove a bearing off my suburban and used a cold chisel and worked great. Never knew this until a neighbor showed me and this huge rusty bearing popped out. |
Worn bearings can make a roar that increases with MPH. This noise increases to a MPH where it then blends into the road noise.
On a straight section of road going approx 30 MPH. Rotate steering wheel slightly one direction of another and listen for changes in any noises. Rotating the wheel will briefly shift the chassis weight to one side. More load on a bad bearing can cause it increase in noise. If a bearing is bad enough, there will be play between the axle hub and axle carrier. Raise tire off ground. Grab tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and push in and out checking for play between tire/hub and the carrier. The Camry front bearings are a one piece double row, ball bearing unit pressed into the carrier. It will require a press to remove and replace them. The rear bearings are installed in a bolt on housing complete with hub. If a bad rear bearing the complete assy is typically changed. Would state a lot of good bearings are replaced before their time. A bad bearing typically makes itself known by noise which just louder with mileage. |
Thank you. Well written.
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I had to have my passenger side CV axle assembly (CV joint, boot, carrier bearing, axles) replaced since the boot was worn out and the boot had a severe rip in it. I had no previous luck with the wrap around repair boots and I didn’t know how much dirt/dust had already collected in the boot & CV joint. I did not have access “clean room – work area” to clean & reassemble the CV joint & boot. The car had never been on any salted roads; but, was parked with in 100 yards of a beach for two years.
The new assembly made a noise that was not previously present. At the time I needed to travel a lot without a potential catastrophic failures (i.e., if the carrier bearing or CV joint ceases) this I suspect puts the differential and transmission in harms way at 70 mph – if this causes the differential or transmission fail, the car most probably is then going to the sold for scrap. Basically the new passenger side CV axle assembly carrier bearing made a grinding sound that was not previously present at low speeds 10 mph, until road noise overwhelmed the carrier bearing noise. An acoustical sensors did confirm that the noise was coming from the new carrier bearing. This assembly was replace two times. No luck – I would strongly suggest you consider saving the old carrier bearing or the entire assembly. The Toyota OEM carrier bearings are or where superior to the new non-OEM carrier bearings. BTW, two different shops were used – the first shop took a prolonged time to replace the assembly. The second shop performed the job in 1/3 the time by disconnecting the lower ball joint, and sliding out the axle from the brake drum assembly, and slide it back in. |
Changing the hub bearing should be straight forward. The bearing change does require a press and mandrels that fit to the outer race. Wonder if the bearing was not pressed in correctly and damaged it.
The axle nut also needs to be torqued to spec. Perhaps it was over or under torqued. |
It been a bit since I replaced my half shaft but after doing one it is not that difficult. You do not even have to take apart the steering knuckle ( 95 Camry LE 4 wheel disc). The bearing I have not replaced but should not be hard to do as said. Toyota built it in a manner for easier repair/replacement of struts, half shafts, and bearings. You must be careful to make sure the bearings are removed. pressed in and torqued down. Also check the bolts on the half shaft so they are tight . Mine loosed up a bit but tightened up with Loctite added.
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