Hi again folks!

Got my oil leak diagnosed, as the "seals" bottom/side of the engine,
behind the timing belt cover (the has about 210,000 miles on it).

So I'm assuming these are the camshaft seal(s), the crankshaft seal(s)?
Are there any that I'm missing- any other seals/things that I should
replace while having the timing cover off??!

I'm going to be putting in a new timing belt/tensioner, AND water pump.

While this is all apart- would anyone replace the oil pump- while in there
as well???!!

Should I replace the front/rear main seals too???!!

I know this is more than one question, but I figure its just in 3 or 4
parts...lol...lol!

Thanks again and again for listening people!!!!!!
Sincerely, Bob Z.

 

Cam, crank and oil pump seals.

Can change oil pump but cheaper to replace just the seal.

Rear main seal requires removing the transmission.

 

Hi again Toyomoho.....

thanks once again for the insight- very much appreciated!!

I was thinking both ways on the oil pump, change it because of the 210,000
miles- but then again I don't hear/see much with these failing- so just change
the seals and be done with that?! And you mean the shaft (oil pump) seal
there- and not the -whole- gasket that mates the engine to the pump??!

And the water pump, should I just have it inspected/changed if its on its way out-
or put one in as "good insurance"?!?!

Again, thanks a LOT Toyomoho!!!!!!
Sincerely, Bob Z.

 

Is this the original water pump? The bearing seldom fails but can leak. If original pump, suggest replacing. Pumps are sold with and without housing. You only need the pump, not the housing it mounts to.

For oil pump. The pump seldom fails but the shaft seal can start leaking. When it does leak, the oil being under pressure results in a steady drip when engine running.

Change the shaft seal AND preformed O-ring between pump BODY and the HOUSING the pump body mounts to. The pump housing is what mounts to the engine, the pump body mounts to the housing. Same as water pump design.

Remove pump and clamp drive gear in a soft jaw vice to remove nut holding on pulley. The gear and drive shaft can then be removed to access shaft seal. The seal is same design as crank and camshaft seals and presses into front of pump body.

The two pump gears have a drilled dot on one face. Take note of the dot orientation when removing pump (both either facing or away from pump housing, can't remember) and re-install in same orientation.

To aid in priming the pump, apply a thin film of grease on the gear faces and outer diameter of gears that mate up with the pump body and housing. It has happened the pump will not prime when engine started and no oil pressure. The grease makes a seal against air loss and to allow the pump to draw in the oil.

 

I'll check into things once we get it apart!

I found this kit at Advance-

Dayco Water Pump Kit WP199K1AS: Search no more for the best Engine Timing Belt Idler Pulley at Advance Auto Parts

Looks like it has ALL the timing belt stuff, water pump, cam seal, crank seal, oil shaft
seal...... AND the "pre-formed o-ring between the oil pump body and housing" that you
had recommended?! Just wanted to write back for confirmation on this pre-formed
o ring before purchase!! Looks like this kit has everything I need??!

Thanks again Toyomoho!!
Sincerely, Bob Z.

 

Looks like the kit has everything you need.

Post back after everything is installed or needing help.

 

Can't say thanks enough.....!!

I will post back when everything
is wrapped up and finished........

Just as long as everything goes
smoothly that is, if I have any
hiccups- I will be back before that
though.......... lol (hopefully not)!

Thanks a million once again Camry
Forums- and most of all Toyomoho
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sincerely, Bob Z.

 

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Thanks as well Patonium!

Got all the parts rounded up,
now the EASY part....lol!!

Can't say how much I appreciate
the collective help, I've been
given through this forum!!!!

I have been working on computers
a long time, as in repairing, upgrading,
etc..... so if you, Toyomoho, or anyone
else reading this needs ANY kind of
help, advice, parts-to etc.- just let
me know!

I do both PC's and Mac's.
Again, thanx a million!!!!!!
Sincerely, Bob Z.

 

Greeting people!!

The main culprit was the preformed O-ring, between the oil pump body
and the housing. The job went pretty well, no real issues.... replaced
the rest of the seals, water pump, timing belt, etc. Gave it an oil
change, a bunch fresh coolant- and its running great!!

Even the slight clicking/ticking I "thought" may have been the valves
needing some adjustment- is gone......... once the engine comes up
to temp!!

Any opinions here folks? As to maybe the oil wasn't getting up to the
valves so much- as the car has always had the little ticking going on
since I bought it?!!

Thanks again AND again to the people who chimed in with help- AND
to the forum as well!!!!!! Sincerely, Bob Z.