I would really appreciate some help here

My wifes 94 4cyl Camry (non calif) suddenly died on here while she was on the highway.

- The ECU is not throwing any trouble codes.

- The first thing I checked was for spark -NO SPARK- I replaced the coil and now have spark. I tried cranking it over and it hick-ups a little like it wants to go but does not start.
Rechecked install of Coil and assuerd I was at TDC rotor pointing to #1 wire everything looks good. Replaced wires, dist cap & rotor. Getting spark at all cylinders.

- Gas is being delivered to the plugs.

- Timing belt is in tact and everything rotates ok.

Could it be a sensor? or the timing belt may have skipped a tooth?

Not sure why it's not throwing any codes....

Any help or suggestions is highly appreciated.

Thanks,
Trevor

 

Compression + correct spark (at the right time) + fuel (right amount) = power.

I can't say what's going on. Car stalled -no spark, replaced coil -got spark, have fuel???

Is the spark strong and blue? Did you try spraying starter fluid down the throttle body? Timing light will tell you if TB skipped a notch (or two). Check compression?

 

Thanks for the response Pedro.

Spark is strong and blue.

Starter fluid in TB intake did not do anyhting.

I tried checking compression last night, but didnt get a good reading. I've never used a compression gauge before, but when I cranked it over, the air from the compression just came out of the valve on the side of the gauge and didnt register anything. . Not sure if I have a leak at the valve or what.

Timing - I didnt think I could checksince it's actualy not running or staying on...

Thansk for the help!

 

Sounds like faulty compression gauge. That release valve is for releasing pressure from gauge after you have finished with each cylinder. The gauge must be "zero'd" out each time. It is just a Schrader valve, like a tire valve. You can try tightening the corebut you'll need a valve core tool; they're cheap enough. If that doesn't work the valve core can be replaced with off the shelf tire valve core. You'll just need to match the style.

Timing light will work with engine spinning with starter, the flashes will be slower and will give you timing at TDC, but good enough to test TB. You may need to jump service connection first. I would concentrate on compression now because if the TB jumped you will get spark (at wrong time) and fuel but the valve timing will also be off and you will not get compression when you have spark. Back-firing is also an indication of valve timing being off.

 

Pedro or anyone else that would like comment.

I checked compression and here were my results per cylinder (not firing order):

cylinder 1: ~170
Cylinder 2 ~ 60
3 ~ 60
4 ~ 150

I know this is really bad, but I think it has to do with the timing.

my timing light showed that i was 10-15 degress Ahead of TDC ????

I'm going to check the timing mark at the flywheel tonight to see if it's lined up.

Is there anyway I could have installed the distributor incorrectly? I've redone it by the book 3 times and I dont see where I could have gone wrong. when the #1 piston is at TDC and the crankshaft pulley is at 0 degrees, my rotor points to the #1 spark plug, so it seems that everything is lined up.

Any help is appreciated

 

Even though it looks like you can install the Dist. 180* off, it is not possible. The slot is actually slightly off center so there's no way to install it incorrectly.

I would start from the beginning, that is align the cam and crank timing marks and then look at the dist rotor positon. If they're on then that engine is toast with two cylinders at 60psi, so don't waste your time on it. The factory compression is 172psi.

 

Pedro, thanks for all your help!!!

Here's the update from last night:

Since the timing was 10-15 degrees ATDC I turned the distributor all the way to the right and it seemed to try and cough (combust)a little bit more than it did before, but still did not come close to starting

I took off the timing belt cover to look at the timing marks. With the crank pulley mark on "0" (TDC), the camshaft marks did not align exactly. The hole (mark) on the camshaft pulley was about 1/8th an behind (to the left) of the mark on the bearing cap.

So does that mean the belt "skipped a tooth"?

Would the belt being off a tooth result in the very low compression I got from my compression tests?

Just wondering if it still a timing issue or if I have much bigger problems....


Thanks again for the help!!!

 

You need to get the mechanical timing right first. Start there then get the electical timing adjusted. Then see if it starts.