I have only been using my Camry wagon a few times a week but when I do it is for very short distances (within 5 miles) and steam comes off the side of the engine. Basically the water pump area is where the water is leaking very badly. Haven't gotten around to fixing it yet but was driving today and the car temperature gauge went into the red zone (90%+) for a few minutes (usually it is 60%-70% near top).

I immediately stopped the car. The oil residue on the engine was boiling so I waited for the engine to cool down and put water in. I drove the rest of the way home which was a few miles. The temperature level was in the middle.

Before I undertake replacing the water pump I would like to know if it is worth it, my car has 180K and is in very bad cosmetic condition. But if it is just the water pump I am willing to keep the car to use to beat around and haul stuff.

Is it too late? Is the engine blown? How to tell with an accurate answer before proceeding with engine work?

 

A blown engine normally has a blown head gasket which causes the engine to scorch, misfire and lack of power or become feeble. An engine misfire happens the time the coolant and oil leaks into the chamber. Therefore, the air and fuel is not capable to ignite resulting to lack of power also eating engine oil, oil trace on the tail pipe, compression test...

 

Depends.

Is the engine overheating due to lack of water in the cooling system from the leak?

A blown head gasket, etc can result in the engine overheating even if the cooling system is full.

Don't operate the engine with temp gauge in the red or this will blow a gasket, if it otherwise does not have a blown gasket now.

 

you wont know unless you open up your radiator cap and see if it is bubbling if it bubbles then you know you that it is blown head gasket. You can also get a head gasket test kit at napa and see if there is co2 in your rad other than that would tell you right off the bat type in scotty kilmer how to check for a blown head gasket and that the test kit i am talking about another thing to do is a leak down test and see where it goes eric the car guy does this on a chevy to see if piston rings are worn on a chevy all this info is on youtube

 

Well, today I filled the radiator with water and it is definitely leaking on the passenger side of the engine (water pump) but also after filling it to the top and keeping it topped off, water bubbles did surface as the engine got warmer.

First many bubbles surfaced but then after a few minutes they would come up in spurts mostly of very small to medium in size. About 1/5 the surface area of the radiator cover cap would have bubbles.

My questions:

1. Do I have to replace the water pump first before trying to add radiator leak additive (head gasket repair mix)?

2. Will the gasket repair mix fix the water pump leak?

3. Do I absolutely have to take off the timing belt to replace the water pump? My Haynes manual says yes but I was hoping there was a more current shortcut.

4. Which is the best head gasket sealant additive by brand to add to the radiator?

Thanks for all and any answers!

 

The noise of a rod going out the side of the block and the cloud of white smoke as oil and antifreeze ran down the hot exhaust lead me to think I blew my Taurus on the highway. Currently diagnosing why 94 Camry will not crank.

 

You can perform what is called a block test to determine if there are exhaust gases in the coolant.

Doubt any sealant will repair the pump. It most likely is leaking from the drive shaft seal.

The pump is driven by the timing belt, there is no way to replace the pump without the belt being removed from the pump drive pulley.