Is my 95 2.2cyl transmission blown or fixable?
 

At approximately dusk I drove my 1995 Camry LE (2.2cyl Auto-Trans 230K) about 1 mile from my house and suddenly there was a loss of power in Drive. I shifted to 2nd Gear Drive and it drove a little better until I parked the car. However, I then tried all gears from Reverse to First and none of the gears worked. I then opened the hood and there was oil all over the front of the engine block and was also leaking.

It was also leaking quite heavily underneath the car. Unfortunately, I didn't check whether the leaking/splattered fluid was red transmission or black oil but it seemed to be motor oil based on the smell & color. The engine did rev so there wasn't any immediate loss of engine power to the transmission.

Now, before getting the car towed to a mechanic I plan on going to back to further investigate in the daylight. There were no evident signs of trouble as I had just driven the car an hour earlier. I am not sure if it was running low on Transmission Fluid and below a certain level it caused some type of blowout. Also the car was NOT running hot as the temperature gauge was at the midline. IT was a pretty spontaneous breakdown.

Has anyone else had a similar problem with their 92-96 Camry LE?

1. Sudden loss of power in Drive
2. No other gears work
3. Heavy leaking and splattered oil around the crankcase?
4. If the engine is blown (based on the oil in the front of the engine) would it still rev and maintain power?

Thanks for any advice as to what the problem may be or what I should investigate upon seeing the car in daylight. :)

Researching more into the problem it seems I may have "thrown a connecting rod" based on the suddenness and oil everywhere. Thoughts?

get a rebuilt lower half block
or second hand engine

auto should all work

If you have thrown a rod there should be a hole in the side of the block where the rod punched it's way out. If this is the case, then Dirty Hands is right.

Went back today and got the car towed. Checked the transmission fluid which was full and the mess on the engine was motor oil. Didn't see any signs of a rod coming out the crankcase but the front motor mount (rocket ship one) was broken and beneath it an entire section of exhaust pipe was missing (however this may have happened before the transmission went out).

Hopefully it isn't a blown engine as I did check the oil about a 6 weeks ago and it was topped off. It may have something to do with the cold temperatures as it has been averaging 20 or less (down to -20) the past month or so.

If all that stuff was motor oil, things don't look good for your engine.

Cause of Problem: Didn't throw a rod rather it was trans fluid that sprayed across the engine due to hose coming loose.

Front Engine Mount - Broke causing the engine to shudder this in turn caused the transmission line (rubber hose) to come loose which resulted in spraying the engine with transmission fluid. The transmission fluid was brown in color so I thought it was oil.

Exhaust Pipe - about a 12 inches of exhaust pipe broke off at the front of the car due to the engine vibration. This was not fixed.

Estimate: 1 hour labor + $150 in parts (hose, new Engine Mount, trans fluid, oil change, shop supplies) + tax = $260.00

Thanks for updating us and believe it or not, that is a very good out come from what I thought had happened to your car! I'm glad that that is all it was, whew.
Keep on driving her! (Get the exhaust fixed though) :)

I know the mod said this...but a fresh shortblock?

JDM engine would be the way to go...under 800 delivered for a 4 banger.
Less money, fewer "F" ups from shade tree boys trying to reassemble.
And...cheaper in every way, with more life on average than an old head on a fresh lower.

Done it both ways. JDM is easier, cheaper and thus far, lasted longer than any rebuilt. Short or long block actually.

When it comes to any kind of work on any car, it depends on who does it and how much they care to do it right. Any used engine (short or long), I would rebuild myself before installing. Those not familiar with engine rebuilding should choose a reputable shop that they trust. Anything used, JDM or not, you have no idea what the engine has endured in it's life, and, if I can save a buck, I will.

welcome to the forums mrgumby

Well some people like Toyota, some like Nissan, I would be fine with a Jasper warranty, but other than that, only OEM will do.
Been through the lower priced engines...most being assembled by a stoned 23 year old fresh out of wyoming tech, with no clue why is following the steps laid out for him. ***Puff...did I remember the sealant on the rear of the pan? ***Puff Puff, did I torque the head properly? Puff Puff Puff, did I put the bearings in correctly?
99% of the JDM engines are under 60K. For those who do not know, Japan makes it harder to keep an older car. They rarely keep one past the 50K mark because of the strict inspection policy and increasing cost of same as it gets older. There are SO MANY cars being cut up, the Japanese folks have no reason to send a bad one to the US for resale. Does not fit with their way of doing business. I have been doing this stuff since 14 years of age...I am 47 now...and I would take a factory engine with 50K on it over any rebuild not sold through the OEM parts counter.
What you say is true. If you KNOW a rebuilder. Not if you MET a rebuilder and heard someone say he was good. You mean a relationship with the rebuilder. One a shade tree does not have, since he might come back in 5 years for another one. The shop tends not to take care of those people nearly as well as a retail shop who buys 20 engines a year.
Funny you say that you would only rebuild a used engine. Again, great idea for a shop...but for the kid with a 185,000 mile Camry, to get 5 years on an engine for 1,300 total cost is a lot better than paying for a maybe rebuild that will run him three times that.
Sometimes, a used engine is the best option.
Not trying to beat a hornets nest...but your advice works for a shop...not so much for a private guy with a winch hanging from the famous tree branch.

Actually, I have been here forever.
Or...its older rendition.
My account got killed after the forums went offline for a while.

Thanks for the invite though!!

I don't dispute anything that you have said. I would expect the kid with the aged car to go for the lowest cost. I also agree that OEM is best. My point was that if I was going to put in a used engine in my car, I would rebuild it first. I have rebuilt a few engines in my time and I would rather know that it was alright before getting it all installed rather than find out it has spun a bearing or the rings are toast and I just wasted a bunch of time/money.

It sounds like it was probably a good thing this happened to you. With the brown transmission fluid color, it was due for a good Transmission fluid change. A lot of people completely forget about that transmission fluid.... :)