NO HEAT
 

Hi Guys,

I'm back....well no I have no heat. I've changed the thermostat, new radiator 2 years ago, power flushed the system (2) different times, verified the control valve is working correctly on the firewall. The odd thing is after the Thermostat a 1st power flush I had heat. Till I replaced a leaking water pump and installed a new timing belt. So I power flushed her again. No heat. Are ther temp sensors anywhere that could be the issue??? the intake hose to the heater is HOT!!

Any ideas guys???

Thanks for the help!!
Dan

RE: NO HEAT
 

Feel the heater hoses going into and out of the heater core, both should be hot.

RE: NO HEAT
 

Thanks for the lead!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyways the intake hose was hot the outlet not as hot. Power flushed it again.....more gunk came out. Tested heat 82 degrees...should be around 130. Pulled intake hose off on firewall control valve, dumped in a can of NAPA flush....more gunk......repeated process again...more gunk. Still 82 degrees. OK now I'm getting pissed...I've spent 2 1/2 days flushing this thing and it won't clear up. So I go searching through my wifes cleaning supplies. Lime-away!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pulled hose off controller again...added 4 ounces, reattached hose and filled radiator...added 4 more ounces to radiator. More gunk but now heat is at 94 degrees. Did it again but doubled ounces...more heat 99 degrees and less gunk. Ran out of Lime-away. Will test temp. when fresh tomorrow and buy more Lime-away, have CLR but its much stronger....may end up trying it if its still not right. Has anyone else tried this??? Both products are diluted well below the recomended usages. But both have issues with Aluminum.

Thanks
Dan

RE: NO HEAT
 

If you can make up an adapter to attach a garden hose to the heater core inlet, then power flush.

RE: NO HEAT
 

Thanks Toyomoho,

Well I hooked up the garden hose and flushed the system it sure helped. Now the weird thing; Took it for a test drive and stopped to get some gas. Went to start it and it stalled (first time it did that) and NO Heat once it started again. Drove it about another 30 minutes and moved the control valve from cold to hot several times to get heat.

Flow rate coming out of the hose was very good when flushing the core. Is there a built in bypass valve when the core is clogged up?? Is there a bad sensor somewhere????

Thanks
Dan

RE: NO HEAT
 

What year and engine do you have?

RE: NO HEAT
 

Its a 1990 LE with the 2.5. When the car sits and idles, the heat is great. The fans seem to working OK, I've watched them come on religiously over the last week.

RE: NO HEAT
 

No bypass valve but a bypass system of hoses. These are the small pipes and hoses running off the rear of the water pump cover.

When you put the T-stat back in did you place any hole or loose rivet in its flange in the upright position? Is the T-stat working OK?

Are the climate controls manual or automatic? Is there a round knob you turn to adjust hot and cold? If so this knob system physically opens and closes the heater coolant valve via a push pull cable. Make sure the heater valve is opening.

Other then the heater coolant valve there is nothing else that turns the flow of coolant on or off.

RE: NO HEAT
 

[quote]ORIGINAL: toyomoho

No bypass valve but a bypass system of hoses. These are the small pipes and hoses running off the rear of the water pump cover.

When you put the T-stat back in did you place any hole or loose rivet in its flange in the upright position? Is the T-stat working OK?

Are the climate controls manual or automatic? Is there a round knob you turn to adjust hot and cold? If so this knob system physically opens and closes the heater coolant valve via a push pull cable. Make sure the heater valve is opening.

Other then the heater coolant valve there is nothing else that turns the flow of coolant on or off.

Check coolant level, it can drop once the air bleeds out of the system.

RE: NO HEAT
 

Thanks Toyomoho,

The Thermostat did not have any holes or rivets. Yes the Thermostat is functioning correctly.The dash controls are manual. You slide the lever over to the right for heat (while sitting in the drivers seat), left for cold. this operates the valve on the firewall. This valve is working correctly. this is also were the intake hose comes from the block and goes into the heater core. This is the same hose I disconnected from the valve, added the hose fitting, attached the garden hose to flush the system. I disconnected the heater core return hose from the block, attached another fitting to drain the system and watch for contaminates, the volume of flow out of this hose was excellent. The intake hose to the heater core becomes Very Hot, the return hose also is very hot but a little bit cooler.....probably due to the fan pushing air over the heater core and transferring some of the heat.

Test drive scenario: Last Night after flushing system, adding anti-freeze and setting to -20 degrees, the cabin heat was at 120 degrees. Took the car out to get gas and test it. Turned car off, when restarted no heat. But 2 minutes later full heat.... when I got on the Expressway and up to 70mph it started blowing cold air??? I stopped at a friends house for 4hours, and never got any heat on the return trip home????


I'm baffled....????

Is there a hot water hose that goes through or somewhere close to the throttle body for cold starts and idle quality???

RE: NO HEAT
 

The throttle body has a small coolant hose running to and from it. Prevents icing and warms the air somewhat to help get a better fuel air mix.

Is is possible that air doors in the dash are moving around and redirecting the hot air some place else?

Did the engine temp drop?

You sure you go all the debris out of the core?

RE: NO HEAT
 

I've checked to make sure the manual door valves are working correctly. They seem to be OK

Flushed the heater core again last night and no more gunk came out.

When the fans come on the temp drops.

The flow out of the heat core return hose still looks good.

What does it take to replace the heater core??

It looks like alot of the dash and center console need to be removed. Does anything with the AC have to removed??

RE: NO HEAT
 

The heater core is below the dash and in front of a lof "stuff." Thus access is not that bad. One issue is there are joints in the tubes between the core and those sticking out the firewall. You will need to be carefull disconnecting this. Is is impossible to remove the core without disconnecting these pipes.

The autozone website may have some info on removing the core.

Fans are these heater blower or radiator?

If the core flows water fine, then would go back to the issue of the T-stat.

For most Camry once operating temp is reached the gauge never moves, even if the radiator fans come on/off or the heater blower is turned on. I only see this type of operation (gauge movement) on cars where the radiator is plugged or some issue the result being the engine cooling system is not working right.

In a cooling system that is operating correctly, the T-stat should be able to moderate the temp range. And again on Camry this means the temp gauge never moves once it reaches operating temp.

I will send you a private message with a link to more info.

RE: NO HEAT
 

Thanks toyomoho,

I'm going to check out the thermostat this week after work. You've been a great help!!!! I'll keep you in the loop!!

Thanks Again you assistance has been GREATLY appreciated!!

Thanks
Dan

RE: NO HEAT
 

OK I torn it down pulled the New thermostat I just put in about a week and half ago. NO Jiggle valve!! Tested the stat to see what temp it opened at. Well it didn't start to open till the temp. hit 205 and was fully open by the time the temp. hit 210. It supposed to be 180.

Anyways went to Advanced, Bumper to Bumper and NAPA for a stat with a jiggle valve.....NO LUCK!!! the one dude said they don't make jiggle valve stat's anymore, not for anything. So for what purpose is the jiggle valve??? Does it really matter?? Also found a bleeder on the side of the stat housing and one on the top of the block were the return hose housing meet to go back to the radiator.

I'll test the NEW stat before I install it and mount the stat per the picture profile. Then fill and bleed. The bleeder on the side of the stat housing (water pump) looks to be impossible to get to once everything is assembled....but I'll try.

Oh flushed the heater core again.....NO gunk???? but good return flow.

RE: NO HEAT
 

The jiggle pin or hole is to allow air to bleed out of the coolant system. Air can cause coolant temp issues.

If the coolant system has bleeds ports use these if you can.

You can always drill a small hole into the flange.

See photo of T-stat with jiggle pin:

http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/...ml?1430728.jpg

RE: NO HEAT
 

Research indicates on this year the dash needs to removed to replace the heater core, a big job. Thus would try all other venues before going this route in the winter time (burr).

If the core flows water well it may be air in the system.

The engine is OK, it does not a have a blown head gasket?

Make sure the radiator is filled to capacity. Refill after driving if needed after changing T-stat..

You may be able to reach the bleed port with a long extension and socket.

What is your temp gauge indicating on the dash, should be about at the 1/2 point.

Have you flush all the hoses and piping of the bypass system?

Toyomoho,

Well finally had some time this week to get back to the heat problem. Could not find a T-stat with a jiggle valve anywhere. So, I took your advise and drilled a 5/32 hole on the flange and installed it per your advise. What a difference in the trapped air.... virtually none. I also reversed flushed the system alternating between normal flow and reverse. Then added CLR to the radiator and started the flush rue teen again. The crap started really breaking loose and you guessed it HEAT!!! I'll keep flushing the system till most of the crap is gone.

I love this forum ... you guys really know your stuff. I'll be back because once the heat issue is resolved for good. I think I have to replace the CV joints. One clicks when its cold and turning. Once its warmed up I don't hear it anymore. I' replaced both torn boots with the split boot kit but it still clicks.


Thanks a million
Dan

Thanks for getting back on your problem. Glad to help!

Make a few left and right 90 and 180 degree turns and listen for clicking. If heard the bad axle is typically on the opposite side of the direction of turn.

OK Toyomoho,

I'm back. Well I've had heat and been flushing the whole system from the radiator since Sunday night (fill, purge, drive and drain), 2 to 3 times per night. The fluid keeps coming out out yellowish. I drained the oil and let it stand over night....NO Water in the oil, no lose of fluids.

Anyways tonight I start the flush routine and NO HEAT???? The first drain is the same color, the 2nd flush the same...doesn't clear up. So I back flush and forward flush the heater core again. All I got was bits of rust....and its clear.

Could the blockage be in the block???

Can I flush the block by using the heater hoses with the thermostat in place???

I have power flushed the radiator and nothing more comes out of it.

What next???

Thanks
Dan

Did you ever have heat on a continuous basis?

Is the yellow color from rust or the color of the antifreeze?

Forgot if the engine was a V6 or 4 cyl. The V6 has an aluminum block/head, the 4 cylinder has an iron block.

If rust had not been present the flushing method would be to remove the T-stat then reinstall the housing. Use a garden hose in the upper radiator hose and let the water come out the lower hose until clear.

The 4-cylinder has drain plug behind the engine that can be reached from the driver’s side.

The V6 should have two drain plugs, one on the front drivers side the other on the drivers side of engine.

If rust you might use chemical treatments to remove it. The issue is the debris can break free and end up stuck in the radiator.

One method is to use a section of hose to connect the upper and lower radiator hoses leaving the radiator out of the loop. Remove the T-stat and let the chemical circulate in the engine. Follow the directions on the chemical bottle.

The other issue could be a head gasket problem allowing air into the coolant system. One signs of a blown head gasket are excess bubbles in the coolant. A radiator shop can test for exhaust gases in the coolant or you can buy a test kit for around $40.